zigzagph

Alright, I just changed the timing belt ( headache ) and I am reading codes 24, 31. Code 24 is suppose to be a Intake air temp sensor and 31 is a air flow meter or vacuum switch signal. Do any of these codes ring a bell to anyone. This sputter is really becoming a pain in my ***. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Oh yeah, 93 Runner, 3.slow, 4x4, auto w/new plugs, wires, dist cap, rotor, fuel filter, timing belt, air intake, pwr steering pump.

Also how do I reset my ECU.

Thanks!

4runner4ever

Don't know the cure, but you can pull the EFI fuse for 20 seconds. That will reset the ECU.

nunsa

If these codes came on after you replaced your t-belt, the 1st thing I would look for is something unplugged or vac line or wire crossed. I'd look for an air leak on your air intake or your afm isn't completely plugged in. Pull the efi fuse or battery term. fo 30 seconds, take it for a ride and see if the codes come back!

Good Luck!

Bumpin' Yota

this sounds EXACTLY like my truck now that I have just done the timing belt....and of course the origional poster didnt leave the solution :rolleyes:

Code 24 and 31 - IAT fault and VAFM fault

I also had some pretty bad knocking in my engine when I drove it last night that wasnt there before, reset my timing to 10* BTDC with the diagnostic port jumped....

What REALLY bothers me is the engine now has a very strange intermittent knock at idle. I sounds almost as if there is something loose and spinning that will periodically hit something else generating a sound best described as

poppoppop ---delay ---- pop -----delay----- poppop

drkgypsy

Bumpin', did you check your valve clearances *after* the timing belt change? How about compression check? The FSM for our engine says the compression pressures are:
Compression pressure-12.0kg/cm2 (171psi, 1,177kPa)
Minimum pressure-10.0kg/cm2 (142psi, 981kPa)
Difference pressure-1.0kg/cm2 (14psi, 98kPa)

Just FYI, hope ya get it worked out....now gotta change the oil in mah beast....

Bumpin' Yota

no I didnt touch the valves after the belt change, and why would there be any change of compression? All I did was pull the plugs and put em back in when I was done...

AgRunner06

Yeah I don't know why you would check the valves or compression. It will still be the same after the t-belt change. I would look into the timing first. When the timing is way off it will cause a lot of problems. Check that and then go from there. Do what they said about pulling the EFI fuse. That will reset the ECU.

drkgypsy

I really can't get into specifics cuz I don't know why or how, but my friend and I did his T-belt last monday and histruck had the same symptoms as yours and Z's-minus the codes.Interminid hesitation,rough idle, and interm. knock.We doublechecked all vac lines, hoses, timing, everything. He replaced at the same time the plugs, plug wires,minor tune up stuff.No problems w/the wayit was runnin before.We drained the gas tank, thinkin the gas somehow became contaminated, filled it w/ fresh go-gojuice 89octane.Samething. rechecked the timing the whole shebang.
Finally, after 2 migrainefilled days, weran a comp. check and found he was losing/lost compression. Out of utter sheer frustration (and maybe 3hrs sleep) we pulled theRT head, and found what looked like water seepage(?)marks from the passages. And his knocking sound was 2 loosevalves.

Didn't dawn on me that I tried to combine 2 different threads w/1 answer posted in only 1 thread....what in the 9 holy hells was I thinking???! sorry guys, this hopefully will clear things up (and every1 won't think I'm on a day pass outta The Bellvue Mental Ward) https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/v6-running-like-crap-45333/

Bumpin' Yota

see that's just the thing, at idle it purrs like a kitten except for the intermettent knock, and there is no hesitation on take off although there is a definate knock and the knock turns into detonation above about 4500 rpm. (Did that one time only...) 89 octane as always. And your buddy's symptoms were a constant ticking from the loose valves, mine is totally intermittent with no real pattern to it.

Could be a lot of things though:

1. Truck hasnt turned over in 3 weeks until I started the timing belt change and when I was done. In that time most of the oil leaked out with it just sitting there. Yeah shes got main seal issuses...lol (And since resetting the timing I have not turned over the engine.)

2. Tear in my air boot btwn AFM and TB, but that was there before

3. Everything looks correct as far as hook up but I havent had time to really go though the vacuum line rats nest yet....

drkgypsy

ok, well see ya left some things out, didn't ya??? No problem, I'm going hunting today w/dear ole' dad and 1 of his apprentices used to turn wrenches at Hamer Toyota, he was head of their Yellow Team (heavy line). He played w/blocks all day. If it's cool w/ you, I want to print this thread and see what he says. But I want to make sure your cool w/it first&formost.

When you say detenation, you mean backire?

Bumpin' Yota

no like MASSIVE drivetrain vibration from the engine itself as if it were fighting itself when under WOT above 4500. Like I said, I only did that one time, which scared the crap out of me when I realised what was going on as far as knocking/detonation and didnt dare do that again. (As I understand it, detonation and knock are the same thing, preignition, it's just that detonation is the really severe form of knocking.) If you could, definately bounce this off of your dad's bud....

Im going to do the oil change tomorrow after work, then check to see if the AFM is really bad or not - if it's shot, a 7mge is going in with a new and larger intake tube going to the TB.

Im hoping this is all the result of the ECU not getting any signal from the AFM.... *crossing fingers*

drkgypsy

No, a knock is just that, something hitting/striking something else. Detonation is explosion.
I'll print the whole thread and discuss it w/dad's apprentice and figure it out. If ya havta go w/the 7mge swap, I got 1st dibs on the 3.0 'n everything....cool?Hope it's not something costly as that.....

Bumpin' Yota

no, not the whole engine swap but rather just swap out the 7mge VAFM.... I lack the skill and ability to do an engine swap...lol

I'm pretty sure the timing is set correctly btw, I was really anal about that. New waterpump went in and 2 new idlers as both of the old idlers' bearings were shot.

Oh and the old timing belt was shiney, almost as if it were black chrome...

Bumpin' Yota

Why is it the dumb stuff that scares you the most but is the simplest fix? LOL

Ok that intermittent rattle was the 4 nuts that anchor on the outer pulley on the false waterpump. Retorqued them down, and no more rattle.

Changed oil and filter. Reset timing to 10* BTDC as per factory specs.

VAFM is shot to hell - dead as a doornail.

Still getting a lot of knocking at low cruising speed....would the shot VAFM induce that?

drkgypsy

Sorry to take so long, had to bury an old riend....ok, back on track! My dad apprentice says that the shot VAFM is were your knocking's coming from, and replace it sooner rather then later....and he's wondering "false waterpumo?"

"Why is it the dumb stuff that scares you the most but is the simplest fix? LOL"- cuz never think of the simple stuff...stupid humans-you'd think we'd learn after we do that to our selves a few thousand times......lol

Glad you got things under control and nuthin major!!!!!

Bumpin' Yota

Bury and old friend? Im sorry for your loss and if you ever need to talk, don't hesitate to get into touch. I recently lost a good friend as well and I really miss her.


Toyota has a new VAFM for 625, Napa Autoparts has a remanufactured one for 180, and a local junkyard has one for 50.

Im getting the one tomorrow from NAPA so I know it will work and I'll have some form of a warrenty of 90 days.

drkgypsy

Hey, thanks...that means alot. My condolences to you for your friend.