Bumpin' Yota

Haven't put em in yet, I have to make sure they work and I got to thinking about engine operation. In normal driving mode (below 80% throttle) they will indeed have a lower duty cycle, but above that point, the ECU goes to a preprogramed fuel curve that is calibrated to the 200cc/min injectors.... Keep in mind that is a 30% increase in fuel delivery at WOT - the next question is is there near enough of an increase in air flow to take advantage of this?

If not, do you have a way to change the fuel maps at WOT (smt 5/6)? If no and no, then the question is likely answered......

in your case you may just need them with the cam and larger valves, I dont know yet.

Also I will be doing the 7mge AFM mod too as soon as I get my 3vze back together and running. Got 3 more shims to order after the first valve shimming procedure! GRRR At least I can pop em out easily enough now!

Bumpin' Yota

btw - wanna really blow a hole in your wallet? Check this place out!

http://toyotaperformance.com/3_0l.htm

Forged crank, rods, and pistons anyone?

I know, I know, I am the devil!


ps - any thoughts to nitrous? They have nozzles down to 30hp shots now.... And a mere 75 wet shot would have you running down supercharged taco's..... well maybe....lol

frankenrunner

sounds good on the injectors & the "cold start mod" is a safe mod in that the cold start injector fires ONLY when the other injectors do &/or with a switch that you wire to it (picture a nitrous button).
the taurus fan mod does take more power in that they draw a continuous 33 amps & upwards to 100amps @ start up. however, this is easily remedied with a trip to the local parts store & the $40.00 purchase of a "continuous duty 85 amp relay."(@ NAPA, part #ST85)
i believe that i've mentioned MSD in a previous post, but if not, "MSD"! they've got complete ignition systems for pretty much any application(primarily foriegn), especially 'yota & before i forget, you should include some "H"-beam piston rods to your package for additional strength & hell, nitrous pretty much won't be a problem.
later,
-f-

Ganoid

Alignment on the maifold is easy if you take out the freez plugs in the ends and look through with a angle mirror and a flashlight in the runner. There is a HUGE thread on SMT6 on this board. The 3.4SC guys use it to get around most of the fuel delivery problems for under $350 its a bargan. I dont think using larger injectors will work very well with the stock ECU.

Did any one get the supra MAF to work with the 3vz ECU?
I tried one out of a wrecking yard and had no luck but I was unsure of the condition of the one I bought.

I had my heads done here This guy does good work

I think I will make a thread about my rebuild too since it seems to be a trend

ChaseHeadrick

So, i read up on the SMT6 and, if i can find one for less that $400, its MINE! If i do get an smt6, then the supra injectors should work fine, as long as they don't leak. Right? Can't you adjust the duty cycle of the injectors with the smt?
Also, i am starting to consider nos. i like the idea of an extra 75hp lying in wait; should a 3.4 guy pull up next to me (two guys i run with have quad cab taco's and 3.4's). Just have to try and stay off the juice.
One ? i have about the smt6 is, how well does it work with a distibutor type ignition? I kinda always thought piggy-backs worked best with distributor-LESS ignitions? correct me if im wrong, please, cause i like the smt so far.

frankenrunner

simply use larger ring grommets on the injectors.
btw, i always coat mine w/some silicone before installation to insure sealing & longevity...just a little tip.

p.s. oh yeah, ease of insertion, too.(heh,heh)

ChaseHeadrick

went and talked to the machine shop, so far im up to $3800. still need to find an SMT6, figure out if my stock injectors are big enough, if not, get bigger injectors, find a bigger VAFM, or like bumpin' yota is working on, a MAF, get exhaust from headers back, Overbore throttle body, and pick an ignition system. Fun huh? sure. also a pic of my painted brackets.

Ganoid

$3800???? Sheesh!
Im into mine about $1800 and thats including rebuilding my starter and a new clutch.

My machine work was $425 on the bottom end to...
Bore 20 over and hone
install new pistons onto rods
resurface flywheel
hot tank everything
Balance rods,pistions and all recip assemblies
Run the whole works from pully to pressure plate on engine balancer and drill balance points accordingly to get it down to 4/10ths of a gram

My heads ran me $700 to fix the DOA joke.
That includes REAL port work and flow testing before and after not simple gasket matching like DOA.
Installing my new EB valves.
Resurfacing with a carbide cutter not the DOA belt sander method.
The guides only needed to be honed for the new valves since they only had 8k miles on them.


The kit for the pistions,rings,rod and main bearings,oil pump,Head bolts and a full gasket set with lots of gaskets I never used came to around $380
3.0 parts

Starter rebuild locally $60
Clutch kit $120
Throttle Body bore increase of 4-5 mm is $150


I did all manifold porting myself.

$3800 just seems kinda steep to me??

Ganoid

Here is a few shots of my intake.











I Didnt bother to have the heads hot tanked with only 8k miles since the last time I had them tanked. I just cleaned them up so the head shop could work with them. As much as I have sunk into them I was trying to get away as cheap as possible while maintaining the highest performance standard.

The only part im waiting on is the Throttle body and it should be at its destination today and on its way back tomorrow hopefully ups 3 day.
I will pass along all the TB information including pics once I get the finished product in my hand and and see that what the workmanship looks like. I hope it turns out good for the bargan price of $150 it will be a good resource for everyone looking to get thiers bored out.

And here we are almost complete. Its actually back in the truck right now just waiting on the throttle body

ChaseHeadrick

Wow, those intake runners look SWEET! Did you do them yourself?

Here is a list of all the stuff they are doing.

Rebuild kit $650

Hot tank block $75
Hot tank cylinder heads $60
Hot tank various brackets $50

3 angle valve job $200
1mm oversize valves labor $100
1mm oversize valves part $96
Port matching $250
Resurface heads $70
Install all replaiceable guides $54
exhaust valve guides $18
260 grind camshafts (pair) $196
Valve adjustment $112.50

Bore & Hone $120
Hang pistons $48
Recondition Rods $120
Regrind Crankshaft $150
Surface block $125
Balance Block $200

New water pump $55
ALL the hoses $100
New starter $160
Fan hub $180 (already found a cheaper one for $100)
Downey Headers $500
Custom Full Exhaust (local shop) $450

TOTAL $3984.50 :cry:

Still need to gather all the stuff in my previous post.

Bumpin' Yota

450 for an exhaust???? Cat back for me ran 120 + tax...

ChaseHeadrick

im getting headers back, not cat back.

Ganoid

Rebuild kit $650
I would really consider going with one of Teds kits for under $400 unless these guys are using OE toyota bearings wich come in 3 different sizes of standard you are wasting your money. The OE toyota stuff is top notch but its expensive as hell even more so than the kit you have listed.

Fan hub $180 (already found a cheaper one for $100)
When mine goes south Im going to pull it off and have a machine shop press out the shaft and bearings and I will just buy new bearings and have them pressed in. The bearings dont look like anything fancy enough to cost an arm and a leg.

Port matching $200?? you could do that pretty easy on your own. unless thay are doing a full on porting job including radius and bowl work with before and after flow numbers?

Recondition Rods $120
Umm?? The rods dont need anything unless you chewed a bearing in half? replace the crank end bearing with new rod bearings. The piston end bearing isnt a bearing at all its a press fit pin that uses the piston skirt bores for the bearing surface. The wrist pin has no movement in the rod its simply pressed in and all the movement is in the pistion.

Surface block $125
Unless you have an etching issue I dont see the need? I guess it never hurts though

Balance Block $200
For that kinda dough I would make damn sure thay know what thay are doing. The guy that did mine has a very expensive machine with all the bells and whistles. I have listend to many stories of people balancing engines like rednecks. I would ask how close thay can get the assembly and if thay are doing the whole assembly from the belt pullys to the pressure plate on a balancer using bob weights. I would make sure thay have the right equipment for the job and know exactly what thier doing.
Engine balancer
If you cant get a very trustworthy shop to do it then I would just skip it and make sure you buy a good pressure plate. Craig said my 3.0 was actually in pretty darn good shape before he started compared to most engines he deals with. He also said that pressure plates are usually one of the worst offenders for causing things to be out of balance.

New starter $160
I opted to take mine down to the local diesel and electrical shop and have it rebuilt. Thay did a super job the thing looks like brand new with parts and labor the bill came to just over $60 and I still have my factory toyota starter just with some new parts.


Custom Full Exhaust (local shop) $450
I would opt for the whole downey set up myself. I bought my headers through
truck performance for $345 shipped with the downey x-over included. Its not the greatest x-over but it works fine for now until I build a new one. If it was me I would but the downey headers + x-over pipe + full downey exhaust with the cat and you wil still come out several hundred less than you have listed.


Looking over your total cost on the heads I come up with $864 and that seems pretty steep to me unless thay are building you the real deal. I would check around and see who is the premier cyl head shop in the area. Looking around to see who has invested in a flow bench will usually tell you who is building the real thing unless you happen upon some one like Ted (enginbuilder) who has a wall full of trophies instead of a flow bench

I did all the work on the upper and lower intake manifolds myself. Rob at Louthan Performance did all the work on the heads. You can see my upper intake mods here except my last bit of cutting to open the throttle body area up but I will pst a few pics of that when I get my TB back tues or wed along with before and after pics of the TB.

If you where not so far away I would tell ya to cmon over and have the guys that did the work for me do the same for you. Your only 480 miles you could probably save enough money to make it worth it. Maybe we should wait a few days till I actually get mine started huh. After being bent over by DOA racing I dont want to see any one learn any $1200 lessons like I did

ChaseHeadrick

Sorry for the delay, was working on my truck. Im getting lots of little things cleaned up and painted. Just ordered my Downey headers today, should be here wednesday(?). Called TCR about an overbore T-body, they told me to call RC Engineering. DOA's website shows a pic of one of their t-bodies, and it has a RC En. throttle plate, so i finally called them. They said only 3mm is possible, but they trim the dealy (whats it called?) that the plate bolts to, and also they use countesunk screws to hold the plate on. They claim a 15-20% increase in airflow, to the tune of $249, and no core charge. Just send your's in and in about 3-4 days, you get it back. So far DOA wants $290, so does Downey, and TCR told me to call RC. Hmm, whatever, as long as i get one

By the way, about the shop, i have done business with them before. They are very smart guys, and know what they are doing. They have built several local high power import race cars, and have a good local rep. Some of the thing they are doing, may not be required, but i specifically asked for them to do it anyway (i.e. plaining the block). I don't want anything to go wrong with this motor after its done (like the headgasket problem these motors had), and want all the parts to be new, or as close to it as possible. Thanks for the warnings (really), but i feel i am not wasting my money.