3VZ-E rebuild update (lots of pics)
 

just thought y'all might be intrested in seeing my pics

more pics

Ya gonna modify it any?

WOW, is that sludge in my engine too? :shocked:

That is very shocking stuff, makes me want to drop my oil pan and have a look. Are there magnets in there?

That oil pan is nasty!!! Good luck man

gwhayduke: yeah, not much though. Im going for 200hp, same as if i did the 3.4 swap. i talked about my reasons in another post. here

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/i-need-advice-55209/

Duec66: I don't know if that sludge is from when i drowned it in mud (probably) or if that is just from poor maintenance.

mt Goat: Nope. No magnets, there will be though when im done.

I don't know for sure, but im guessing this motor had around 155,000+ miles on it when it died.
the pic of the room is my work area without all the junk in it, its about 10x 15. All you guys with a garage don't know how lucky you are :)

good god I REALLY want to drop my oil pan considering I have 258,000..... that is SCARY!

at "...155,000+..." & you've got all of that type of sludge in your pan, the only question that i have is: what type of "oil additive" were you using to leave that much residue?
you see, the oil system is SEALED so there is no way that you got that mess into your pan from "...mud...", unless you ripped it open on the trail & scooped it in, perhaps!?!

Yes we do...did my work in parking lots for years. Which is why I insulated my garage 15 years ago when we built this house. You'll appreciate your garage too when you get one. Keep us posted on the rebuild. I keep waffling over whether I'm gonna rebuild this one or drop in a Toy, Hino or Mercedes diesel.

I wasn't using any additives. Don't know about the previous owner though. I've only owned it for about a year; maybe 5 or 6 oil changes? Its originally from VA, then went to Seattle then to Boise, Idaho, where i bought it. (previous owners kept decent records)

Sludge
 

Ok, when I dropped my pan I thought for sure I'd see "goop" however I didn't see anything wrong. No metal, no "chunks", no dirt, nothing but oil. I would like to take this time and say "Thank you for helping me feel better about my abused yota". Well how's it coming together? Are you done? (man everyone's quicker than me). If you're not done what do you have left to do? Good luck and keep us posted.

-=Morphine=-

Its never "done" :great: . I just droped off my motor at the machine shop friday. they said they would call me monday with a rough estimate of the costs and the condition of all the components. we'll see where it goes from there. Got most of the other parts cleaned up and ready for paint yesterday. I still need to pick a color scheme for my engine bay. Any suggestions? I don't want some chromed out show boat of a motor just something that looks good under the hood.

here is my "wish list" i left with the shop:
"3VZ-E rebuild; 200hp goal

New Parts List:
cam shafts from D.O.A. Racing: $275 a pair, $250 core:

Lobe Separation: 112 Degrees

Intake: Exhaust:
Duration 222 Degrees Duration 222 Degrees
Lift .400 Lift .400
Opens 3.0 BTDC Opens 47.0 BBDC
Closes 39.0 ATDC Closes -5.0 BTDC

(based on 1:1 rocker arm ratio & .050" lobe lift)

D.O.A. reccomends valves be faced @ 44 degrees and seats @ 45 degrees
Whats your opinion of these cams??

Downey Headers
Overbored Throttle body
Bigger Injectors or raise fuel pressure(????)
Reprogrammed ECU
Electric fan
I plan on porting the intake manifold myself, i have seen this done before
and feel capable of doing it.
Try and put together a hose kit (we talked about this thursday)
Rebuild kit supplied by you
All parts that need replaiced


Make sure all parts (block, heads, crank, rods) are still usable, hot tank the block, and any other parts that
are in need of this.

Machine work:
1mm oversize valves
3-angle valve job ???
Port & Polish heads
Deck the heads (and block if needed)
Raise compression ???
Balance (& Blueprint?) rotating assembly
40 over pistons
All machine work necessary for new parts"

im expecting to shell out around $3500, but thats still cheaper than doing a 3.4 swap for me. by the way, they sell a rebuild kit for $650 comes with:

pistons and rings (any size; 20, 40, and 60's if i remember right)
head bolts
idler bearings
timing belt
oil pump
main berings
rod berings
thrust washers
EVERY gasket in or on the motor. I saw this set and i believe it. the only gasket it doesn't have is the one between the x-over pipe and the driver's side manifold. Thought that was odd for such a complete set. all these parts are factory replaicements. Some even said "Toyota" on them.

not too bad in my opinion. website is www.crankkit.com if you're intrested.

good God, "Chase", you r "wish list' reads like my 'runner wet dream, you go man!

the "cams" are the shiznit! w/the degreeing that you referred to you're garanteed to increase the compression on the intake for more power, yet also enjoy decent mileage when you don't put your foot in it;

as for the "Bigger Injectors": it is a good idea in that the modifications you're doing will require the engine to demand more fuel(you could also re-rig the "cold start injector' to give you an additional squirt or for continuous operation even)for it to perform properly.
unfortunately both the fuel pump & pressure regulator are sealed units(they can sometimes be "shimmed" on some applications to increase flow), however, you could go w/a high-flow fuel pump;

i also see that you're going w/an electric fan set up("FAL" is the shiznit on that tip, or you could simply go w/the two speed electric fan out of a ford taurus, the one w/a three wire[one for ground & two power wires for different speeds]harness), you should also look into a radiator upgrade to help keep that monster you're building cool("Radiator.com" for some 411 on that)& you may also want to consider getting a stand alone,high flow electric water pump(i've got the 411 on that too, but cannot come up w/it right now;

YES on the 3 angle valve job to open up the chamber more for spark disperstial & i would also grab a "MSD" ignition system to control said spark;

planing the block will increase compression (make sure you check the limits & tolerances on this, although you could always get a thicker solid copper gasket to bring it back into specs)just as porting, polishing & decking the heads will, just be sure to use solid copper plate gaskets & visit "ARP" for some super hardened, high tensile strength bolts to hold all of that compression in(it would really suck to blow the heads off of it!

good luck & damn it man, i'm envying you right now.

later,

-f-

Hey thanks for the support, really. I think im going to go with some non-turbo supra injectors (mine are like 200cc non-turbo supras are about 290cc i think). I have heard of the cold start injector mod, but i don't like the idea of all that air/fuel mixture sitting in my plenum. kind of a big bomb waiting to happen. for the fan i read that the taurus fans take too much power, but i still need to read up on that. might get one anyway, and then upgrade my alt. I definately want some kind of aftermarket ignition, but don't know what to go with. i feel limited with a distributor. But thanks again man!!

Are you staying with the stock AFM?

I have those 7mge injectors and while they will fit, they are not quite as tall as the 3vze injectors nor do they fit quite as tightly....

If that gets a 200 hp 3.0 then Im already there. I just need to put it back in the truck hehe.

I had mine fully balanced on a sunnen engine balancer from the pressure plate to the belt pullys. Craig got it down to 4/10ths of a gram but He said it was not too bad in stock form. I used 20 over rock pistions from engine builder and thay turned out to be about 15 grams lighter than the stock ones. If you are going to buy DOA cams fine but I would not buy anything else from that J@ck @ss. The cams may be ok but thats because he sends them out to be ground. If I where going to do it again I would opt for TCR cams as thay are welded then ground to keep the same base circle as stock. I would skip any reprogramming of the ECU and just add an SMT6. Im going with an SMT6 myself and will probably ditch the factory AFM in favor of somthing else like a MAP sensor.

As far as head work goes I would go to a local performance head shop to have that done and get them flow tested before and after. I bought DOA junk the 1st time and it was an expensive lesson. The DOA heads actually flowed less than stock below .5 lift keeping in mind both stock and DOA cams are near .4 of lift. Im into my heads for about $1900 counting the $1200 DOA mistake that lasted a whopping 8k miles. I can post a pic of my lower intake porting if you like? Im sure you already saw posts of my sawzall upper porting method :saw:

The only thing I think you should add to your list is a jacobs ignition. I use the ICE ignition system and I can honestly say it made a very noticable difference especially in the top end. I bought all my parts from enginbuilder and was completly happy with the quality and price. Dont get excited about a huge gasket set since the FSM recommends FIPG instead of a gasket on about 90% of the motor. I used "The Right Stuff" Last time I had it apart and after taking it apart this time Im a firm beliver in that product. I used it exclusivly on this re assembly.

Mt goat: I am going to try the 7m-ge AFM swap that i think Cebby was working on. don't know if he ever got it to work though.

Bumpin' Yota: So, do you have problems with them leaking? Would you reccomend them?

Ganoid: I am going with a local shop (see the link) for all the machine work. I was interested in a piggy back chip controller, but was turned away by the price. How much is a "SMT6", and where can i read about them on the 'net? I did see your ported intake, but i would think, for all your work to be worth it, you would have to somehow make absolutely sure the insides lined up right otherwise, it would be a waste. Right? it would have to be a perfect cut, and a perfect weld. oh well, maybe im thinking too much. heres a pick (bad, but it makes my point. red line is the cut.) I do want an aftermarket ignition, but am unsure what to go with.

Oh yeah, i forgot. I talked to the machine shop today. Rods are fine, but the crank has a slight lip to one side of were the rods conect to the crank. that explains the horrible lower end knock it had. Its a big relief (sort of) to finally find out what went wrong. :drink: