Ok I need new wheels, the stock wheels I have with 285's are sitting too close to the a-arm and rub on the frame when I turn.

My questions:

1) What backspacing do I need if I need probably an extra inch of clearance (just to be safe)? Stock wheels have 4.3 something backspacing right?

2) If I want to go for a 16x8 wheel, will that make the tire go inward again (stock is 16x7)? If so, how do I get a 16x8 wheel and have the tire 1" futher outward than it is now? Extreme backspacing????

3) What suggestions do you guys have for wheels? What are you running now??

I'm looking at the wheelers offroad black alloys, but those are pretty pricey (looking to spend 300-400). I know Andy is running the LX wheels, will those give me enough clearance?

That's all for now, gracias mucho.

 

Its muchas gracias

I ran 16x8, 4.5" BS with a 265/75 Toyo. Stock suspension, saggy front. It worked. Looked awesome...

 

stock 16x7's are 4.375" BS.

the rockcrawler 16x8's are 4.25" BS. an extra 1" in width and sticking out another 0.125" means that they will stick out an additional 1.125" and have more potential for rubbing at the pinch weld.

the LX/FZJ/FJ wheels are 16x8's and are 4.5" BS. that means that you gain and inch in width, but scoot them in closer to the upper arm by 0.125", leaving only 0.875" sticking farther out from the stock wheel. that's a full 0.25" LESS than if you were running the rockcrawlers.

the tires "bubble" less w/ the 16x8's compared to the 16x7's, and even running 305's, i'm barely rubbing on the front, and only when the wheel is at a quarter-turn and a hard stuff. with another 1/4" of wheel sticking out, they'd rub MUCH worse.

 

When moving up an inch in wheel width, does that inch go outward, or is it spread out evenly .5 both sides? Like will it be .5 inward, and .5 outward? Or just 1 inch outward and the location of the inner part of the tire is at the same spot?

 

i think its outward only

 

for a 16x7 and a 16x8 with the same backspacing, the extra width is on the OUTSIDE only.

if you go up 1" in width, then go down 1" in BS if you want to keep the outer edge of the wheel in the same location relative to the outside of the car.

 

any wheel suggestions? And from where??

 

what do you want, steel, aluminum. Are they mostly for trails??? Do you want to spend $$$$ for a nice alloy wheel?

1. Standard rockcrawlers--cheapest
2. Wheelers---cheaper
3. Any MT Pro Comp style--posdercoated (not a fan of bling)---about the same minus pc
4. Fj/LX wheels---???? I have paid on both ends of the spectrum

 

no it'll be for dd.

Wheelers is considered cheap??? I would think 600 dollars for a set of wheels would be really expensive.

Like any MB motoring wheel would do fine, as long as it clears my a-arm and frame rubbing.

 

he's talking about 4wheelpart's steel rockcrawlers, not the $600 alloys.

 

I had some 16x8 with 4.25" BS with 285 MTR's and it worked great. Bought them from 4wheel parts tech 1 black rock crawlers.

 

Why not keep the stock rims and go with aftermarket A-arms to get the tire a little further away from the ball joint, that way you can keep your shiny stock alloys?

 

I just actually bought a set of American Racing Outlaw II's 16''x8'' with 4'' of backspacing on e-bay for $345 shipped, with lugs and valves included. The seller was so-so but they do look nice, and are a decent looking wheel for $86.25 a piece. IMO the best looking cheap wheel around.

 

Cuz I want to go to a 16x8 rim and also i'm rubbing on the frame not even close to full lock as well.

 

Right, and longer a-arms would help with that.

I'm running 16X8 Tech1 rockcrawlers, bought them from 4wheelparts ~2 years ago.

 

so my options are either longer a-arms, or new wheels?

Longer a-arms would be like what? The inland trucks a-arms, total chaos? And these will push the tire out further away from the frame and arm?

I thought new wheels would get rid of all the problems for me, like a 16x8 wheel with 4" backspacing? How much backspacing do you have on your wheel David?

 

The Tech1 16X8 have ~4 3/8 if I remember correctly. I seriously wacked away on my pinchweld, and still got some rubbing at full stuff, so I eventually added a 1" body lift, and haven't had any troubles since. I still have stock A-arms at the moment. All depends on what you want to do- if you're set on getting new rims to give your truck a different look, may as well get something that works for you. I think the input from Bamachem and others above is spot-on and will help you make a decision. If you like the stock rims and just want to help with rubbing issues (and get better flex in the process) the A-arms should work for ya.