If you will be building the manifold yourself then I highly suggest building a Twin-scroll manifold with each bank of cylinders feeding a scroll.

Keeping the flow separate until the turbo is a good idea to maximize performance and try to remove any uneven flow between the banks.

Plus twin scroll offers performance advantages as well if properly implemented.

If it is too hard to do a true twin scroll though a normal single scroll will work fine as well, nothing to beat yourself up about. Although I do recommend a Vband turbine housing if single scroll, makes things a lot neater and easier to work with.

If you do your own fab work I would also look into the intake manifold. The runner are just way too dang long. I would cut the runners off and install a large custom plenum to improve top end performance.

A significant part of why the supercharger seems to work so much better is the fact it shortens the runners down to almost nothing. Thus drastically improving the top end vs stock.

 

Are there any examples of custom short ram plenum? I've seen, was it Gadget's or Speedy's or whoevers with the twin turbo setup. I'm not fabricator, but I could probably hack something together if I had an example. Enough grinding and paint can cover a lot of mistakes! Slacker, if you wanna make a couple of those in the future, you've got a customer here. Also if you ever make a driver side (3.4 swap style) turbo manifold, I would also be interested.

 

It is really not hard to do. Just cut off the runners at the desired length/spot. Then weld on a custom plenum, nothing fancy, just a tube that is airtight. Generally larger the better but some math can be good as well.

Here are some pictures of my old dual plenum manifold to give you ideas. The runners are stock, the plenum is obviously custom along with the second set of backwards firing injectors for what was going to be the ultimate meth injection kit:

 

Factory plenum is aluminum, right? I can't weld that. I'd have to find somebody. How about using a 4" piece of exhaust tubing as basis for plenum? I have an extra motor and plenum to play with. Do you think the TB can still stay on the side like it is factory, or should it be in the front of the plenum?

Where do you get that log with one flat side like you used on yours?

 

Yes, it is all aluminum. Everything you make will also have to be Aluminum.

The TB can be put wherever it will allow for even flow, generally it is best to have it on the end of the plenum unless you design it for another direction.

The plenum was made out of half a piece of pipe and a flat piece of aluminum welded together. The second plenum is uneeded, it is for perfect distribution in high performance applications.

 

I don't think this is possible on this engine , or I wouldn't want to do it .. unless I mount it underneath the vehicle .. maybe smaller twins are the way to go ? this would balance flow .. yes ?


good point !


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It's possible, just a bit more work.

Instead of the driver side manifold connecting to the passenger side like the CX setup does. It would simply bypass the passenger side manifold and run directly up to the Turbo flange.

Fitment would be tight in some areas but very possible.

Obviously the runner lengths would be different, while not 100% ideal, it is better.

Twins are another option and would work but would be a real fitment pain with the battery. Plus add extra weight and offer no real performance advantage.

 

do you think a URD piggy back would work for this application ? I have a spare one

and where do I buy the turbo flanges .. anyone have a good deal on these ?


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Look into a cantilever rear setup. My buddy has a 88 4runner with 16'' of travel in the rear with deaver leafs, king bypasses, and an factory floor. The only thing we had to change was the wheel tubs to allow for the 33x12.50s on full compression.


[/hijack]

 

I personally would say run far away from the URD setup, it was the most horrid thing I have ever had to tune. The meth kit was both easier and more effective to tune.

Besides that with a turbo setup you will most likely overrun what even the 7th injector can handle.

You will need to either get a piggyback that can control a full set of extra injectors or take over control of a larger set of stock injectors. The AEM FIC can do both of these.

I am a fan of an extra set of injectors myself since you let the stock ECU take care of everything out of boost and thus it drives like stock. Things only change when in boost and the extra injectors kick in along with any timing changes ect. Since this is open loop the ECU plays a lot nicer like this as well.

 

Supercharger. Better for instant power which is needed in 4x4.

 

Have you even read this thread?

 

Haha absolutely not. I'm just trying to reach 15 so I can post a thread. Sorry for the asinine respone.

 

Borg Warner has EFR turbos that are water cooled... Even the install instructions state "Water cooling is particularly critical on EFR turbos equipped with aluminum bearing housings!"
http://www.full-race.com/articles/ef...uidelines.html

Garrett's GT and GTX turbos have water cooling... In fact, Garrett even has a white paper titled "Water-Cooled Turbochargers: They Need Water!"
https://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbo...er_Cooling.pdf

You see water cooling more on ball bearing turbos because they don't require as much oil flow as their journal bearing counterparts. To say that modern turbos don't have watercooling is an inaccurate statement.

 

LOL! At least you're honest about it...

 

The EFR uses a titaium turbine wheel along with a cast housing that has had issues with cracking, the reason for the water cooling is more for those reasons then anything. That and Indy is using them so they wanted them built for that as well. Oh, and they have been trying to market them to OEM's. The normal Borg warner stuff does not use water cooling as a rule.

Garret is a joke, I refuse to talk about there overpriced and under preforming stuff. They have not had a competitive turbo in 10 years.

PTE on the other hand leads the pack and they are oil cooled only. That includes the ball bearing models and they use ceramic ball bearings and they do not need the coolant. So yes, I can 100% say that modern turbos do not need coolant.

Oh yeah, comp does the same thing, heck they have oilless turbos now as well.

It is all pointless anyways, not like it matters if the turbo is oil or water cooled. It makes boost, that all that matters.

 

so do you think I can use the Holset hx35 's for a twin set up , or is this to much ?
I have 2 sets of larger injectors .. not positive on the CC's yet (more research) I plan on intercooling , twin oil ports , pressure reg , boos controller , BOV , air temp sensor . meth , wide band , and stand alone (not sure which one yet ?)

I'm just not sure on the turbos ? I'm thinkin with the control I should have , they will be ok

I'm not going to rebuild the engine , or do stronger internals yet .. just want to do this to start


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sweet !!

 

just to let people know .. we have replacement hi clearance REAR 1/4r panels for the 4Runner .. pretty close to what is pictured there ^


anyways ..

I have found my spare injectors are 318 CC's , and 440 CC's .. so I have a good "variety"



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What are you wanting to do with your boost? I couldn't love my hx35 more. It drives like stock but is really a blast when you put the pedal down. If you're wanting really low end boost, this is not the turbo you want. It's a little large, and could be smaller and still stay efficient. I don't need/want any extra torque down low for wheeling- that's how parts break anyway. I can drive all day like stock but very easily push it into boost at 3k. I'll bet the boost threshold for a twin scroll hx35 would be lower than mine, especially properly mounted nearer the manifolds. When I was choosing a turbo the compressor map matched exactly what I wanted to do- in fact was recommended by Ace and other members. Ultra reliable, rock solid turbo.