3.4L timing marks!!!
#1
3.4L timing marks!!!
Hello all, hoping for some input on this. Started to do a timing belt replacement on my 2003 3.4L Tacoma. 130,000 miles and it's had been giving a squealing sound on start up with a burning rubber smell. Pretty sure it's the water pump. Have it torn down and getting ready to remove harmonic balancer. I tried to line up the timing marks before I do that and it seems like something is off. I rotated the belt through 4 times and cant get the cam marks to line up with the crank mark. I will load pictures of both cam sprockets and where they line up and a picture of the crank dot and where it lines up in relationship to both cams. What I see tells me they are off. Maybe I am wrong? Ok, phone wont connect with my computer at the moment so, I have to do a update i guess. I will describe what it looks like for now. The cam marks on the sprockets are about the 1 o'clock position while the crank pulley notch is lined up on 0 and the dot on the crank teeth is lined up with the arrow on the block. I have made at least 4 rotations with the belt. So the cam marks should be at the 12 o'clock position if I am correct. Thanks in advance to any input you have!
#4
Registered User
Yeah they need readjustment. One method is aligning without the idler pulley and then placing it last. The tensioner must remain locked with a key until the marks line up. Then go from there. Fun time.
#5
Thank you both! I bought the truck new and this is the first attempt to change the belt. 130,000. Possible it came factory this way? Or, possible it just jumped teeth? 75w90, wouldn't it be as simple as loosen the timing belt, rotate cams to 12 oclock while making sure crank spocket remains at 12 ?
#6
I will add, I really have driven it for the last year. Just move it around the property. Months ago when the squealing started, I could smell burning rubber in engine. wasnt coming from the ps, ac, alt belts. had to be timing belt. Wonder if that could cause belt to jump? I have noticed slight miss when it idles but real slight. been like that last couple of years. I would think where it is aligned now, it would be a much more noticeable miss.
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#8
Registered User
^^ what Marc said.
Unless you feel like taking apart the lower timing cover by the crank and loosening the tensioner manually. I imagine you've gotten this far, it's only backtracking a few steps. The tensioner tool omits those steps (a/c bracket removal). However you do it, releasing the tensioner comes last after it's all been lined up on the sprockets. Don't mind the marks on the belt not lining up after you turn the crank through. Commonly asked.
Good job btw!
Were your suspicions confirmed on the old timing belt?
Unless you feel like taking apart the lower timing cover by the crank and loosening the tensioner manually. I imagine you've gotten this far, it's only backtracking a few steps. The tensioner tool omits those steps (a/c bracket removal). However you do it, releasing the tensioner comes last after it's all been lined up on the sprockets. Don't mind the marks on the belt not lining up after you turn the crank through. Commonly asked.
Good job btw!
Were your suspicions confirmed on the old timing belt?
Last edited by 75w90mantraN; 05-25-2017 at 11:27 AM.
#9
Yes, with both of your input, suspicions are confirmed on old belt. Well, I didn't remove the lower timing cover yet. Guess I am confused on the rest. Ok, lets try this. Say I remove the old belt now the way it is aligned from pictures. Then when i am ready to install new belt...that is where i will align the cam sprockets to 12 oclock. Timing belt kit came with new tensioner with pin already in it. If you all understand what i'm asking just give me a And btw...Good job you guys!!!!
#10
Registered User
You got it dj
This link helped me before, also referenced and sticky'd on the YT Toy group. Great writeup from a guru.
http://www.skjos.net/toyota/timing/timing.html
This link helped me before, also referenced and sticky'd on the YT Toy group. Great writeup from a guru.
http://www.skjos.net/toyota/timing/timing.html
#12
Removing tensioner was a pain! I had to take a/c compressor off then remove 4 bolts on the a/c bracket. I was able to swing the bracket up enough to remove tensioner. Happy to say...it's all back together and running great! And this time, the cam sprockets are lined up correctly!. I want to thank all of you that jumped in here and offered help. THANK YOU!!
#14
Contributing Member
Also used the skjos writeup - fantastic!
Andreas
#15
Registered User
For me it was that crank pulley bolt. Snapped off rubber and wood methods that I thought be strong enough so I ended up getting the special service tool. I remember even trying the screwdriver wedged against the flywheel teeth and getting scared I'd break one of them off.
Power steering was a pita.
Its a humbling experience and a new perspective.