ToyAllTerrain

Hey guys, i just recently picked up an awesome deal on a used S/C in my area. I did a little research before buying it to see how i was doing price wise. paid $1000 for a 30,000 mile used supercharger.

What are my options as to solving the new pinging that just started to occur. HG/Low RPM. not too bad yet but i'd assume it will get worse. my runner is perfect cond. at 166,000 miles. what are the cheapest options to solving this. The problem isn't as evident as you guys down at sea level... i'm in Utah at 4500-5000 ft. Walbro 190 supply enough fuel all the time without a seventh? bigger 300 injectors installed alone? what have you guys found to solve this. I don't want a competition race motor so i don't want to blow funding that my engine doesn't need. Gadget has lots of great products but he lives at sealevel where full boost is actually achieved.

skrassow

Congrats on the find! I just recently got one for about the same (around the same mileage on it too). Is this a first gen (gray) or second (black) s/c?
To my knowledge, the best and safest way to eliminate any ping is with the 7th kit, or the fuel upgrade kit, from gadget. I plan to use his 7th kit in mine. If I were you I would call and talk to Gadget. He is a great guy and will help you figure out the best solution for your situation. He wont try to sell you crap that you really dont need either. Talk to him and let us know what he says...Id be interested to hear what he has to say on it.

ToyAllTerrain

Is it possible... to pull off or eliminate boost in the HG/Low Rpm range? essentially if we eliminate the boost in this range where most of us are having the issue i think it would be fair. less power in that range when we're trucking down the highway but if we could control the bipass guage with a "vacumn controller" of some sorts that wouldn't allow it to boost in this range of 2000-2800 rpm under high gear, when we could control when we want it to work efficiently or as such. All of us seem to be having the same issue. Has anyone tried this? essentially if i designed a system that i could monitor or configure that i could lower or eliminante boost when i didn't want it, as in such cases where it doesn't like it. simply as easy as holding the bipass open with some mechanical system or like i mentioned... controlling or "adjusting" vacummn. by holding it open it won't boost as anyone can verify if they hold on to it and rev the motor.

mt_goat

Here's a lot of the early stuff Gadget tried first;

http://www.gadgetonline.com/Fuel.htm

But... bottom line is you're going to find URD has the best options:
http://www.urdusa.com/

rimpainter.com

There are some "free" ways to alleviate the HG/LR ping problem until you can afford an entire fuel/timing system (since you installed the SC'r and didn't wait). I've done all of these mods and tested a few of them.

1. Free FMU mod (see Gadget's site for details)
2. Pull the snorkel and the elbow and cut the 90-degree bend off the elbow
3. Coolant Bypass Mod (you'll hear horror stories of the intake butterfly icing over and holding it at WOT but I have had no issues and run in 20-degree weather)
4. Make that hood scoop functional. Believe it or not my temperature testing has actually revealed that it lets hot air out vs. bring cool air in, mainly below 20MPH. I believe there are a number of reasons for this including hot air rising and airflow in through the grill, etc. I saw temps drop nearly 20 degrees by opening the scoop up when I lived in Phoenix. I've since added a bolt/washer/nut set-up that allows me to slide on a black plastic cover to keep rain/snow out. Here's a picture before I added the cover of how I opened up the scoop:


Here's how it looks after being Line-X'd:


BTW, I run a somewhat "rare" HG/LR ping elimination set up. I have the following (in addition to the things mentioned above):
1. Walbro 190
2. SMT6 piggyback (running about 6 degrees timing retard midrange right now)
3. Supra 308cc injectors
4. 2-step colder plugs
5. NAPA 170 degree thermostat
6. 60/40 water/coolant mix w/Redline Water Wetter treatment

And I've recently moved from Phoenix to Seattle and climate is bar none the biggest factor in SC'r HG/LR ping issues. The dry hot air and 91 octane fuel created the need for nearly 12 degrees of timing retard. Moving to Seattle (cool/humid) and running 92 octane has allowed me to cut timing retard in half. It runs SO much better here.

mt_goat

Was that the water temp or intake temp Christian?

rimpainter.com

Hey Dale - It was ambient air temp at the top of the SC'r case. Kind of a gross test but data nonetheless. I used a digital meter and logged the readings in Excel. I was really surprised to see that once under way at speeds between 20MPH and 90MPH the scoop really had no effect. Where it really shined was coming to a stop at a light, where temps would spike at the top of the case, then plummet to 20 degrees less than when I was slowing down to a stop.

PhoenixTech

I am not sure if this has been covered yet bear with me. We had a similar problem before on a Chevy after installing a S/C. We ordered a Hypertech power programmer and when we reprogrammed it, the problem was gone. I hoe that helps.

Mouse, Phoenix Tuning

mt_goat

Yeah, ok...that kind of jives with my testing. I found that my water temps were the same with or without the hood on at highway speeds.

mt_goat

The solution for Toyotas is different because no one has been able to break the programing code on the Toyota ECU. You have to run piggy back computers or a stand alone ECU.