Oil cooler. Get a new dealer if they don't know what it is....standard equipment on some engines, models.

 

What I found when I did mine last week was the correct torque squished the rubber grommet to the same size as the steel washer. So that's what I did on all the rest. Because the rubber grommet acts like a spring, there's no reason to retorque them anytime soon.

I almost switched to Mobil 1 but changed my mind. I figured if there was a chance my rear main seal would worsen, it would be with mobil 1 oil. Why risk it with 159,000 on the clock. Used valvoline max life instead.

 

I have 01 4runner, oil is pooring out of the right front (passenger) side which appeared to be from the cam seal..I replaced the cam seal 2 times and the it still leaks like sieve. Qwestion.. is it possible the valve cover could be the issue or a problem with the camshaft having excessive play causing the cam seal not to seal? the oil is pouring into the timing belt area..there are no other signs of oil leaking. this 3.4 has 217.000 miles and has never been maintained

 

Spent last week changing my engine with a fresh rebuilt from Nippon Motors. Cleaned everything as I went in a solvent tank. New gaskets everywhere. Last night I noticed pretty good leak spots. Investigated to see there's quit a bit of oil dripping off the white plastic wire harness retainer along the front of the oil pan. Pulled pan to change the gasket but doesn't seem like it could have been leaking that bad... Is there anything mid way up the block in front that could be the culprit? Something around the water pump area?

 

I'd check the valve covers, they need a dab of sealant in the corners around the camshaft bearings., both at the front & rear of the engine.
They leak quite often after they have been taken off.

 

Valve covers and cam caps are good. Looks awfully wet behind the crank pully.

 

To replace the crank seal it should take all of 10 minutes max if you use the Lisle 58430 seal puller right above where the key way rests in the crank.

Now getting to the crank seal isn't fast. If the timing belt/H20 pump is not brand new, think about replacing both while removing the crank seal.

 

Well, it helps if you actually INSTALL the cam seals....

 

Is there any chance we can get the original photos from this thread refreshed?
Thanks so much! i am about to start my valve covers and then go from there. I feel as though this is one of the better threads ki have seen. with the photos it will be that much more helpful! the insight and intelligent information that comes from this site is remarkable. And is always Appreciated!

J.

 

The guy who started the thread hasn't been around in a couple years. People used to have their photos hosted on another site, and if they deleted them off that site, they vanish from here. Nothing Yotatech can do about it unless the original poster has them somewhere and wants to reload them.

For what it's worth, I just did the valve cover job a couple months back, and in all the internet reading I did, I never came across this thread. There are great threads out there with plenty of photos and explanations to get you through the job.

But you could try sending a PM to the OP.

 

I'm in the same spot as Ryan here. I guess I've failed in life and don't have a lot of wrench-turnin friends where I live. Is anyone from or know anyone around the Birmginham, AL area?