95.5-2004 Tacomas & 96-2002 4Runners 4th gen pickups and 3rd gen 4Runners

3.4L Oil Leaks (150k)

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Old Feb 17, 2010 | 03:58 AM
  #21  
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From: Ellicott City, MD
CYi5,
Excellent write-up! I purchased my '01 4Runner new and just recently noticed the very same leaks. The truck now has 189,000 miles and was bone dry until two or three oil changes ago. It's enough to cause me to follow in your footsteps. Please update this thread as you go.


Andreas
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Old Feb 17, 2010 | 06:02 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by logsurfer
btw, the picture below tells where my leak is coming from. maybe this will help you too. I cleaned the area and used the remaining fipg
that i had and put some on the area inside the red polygon. waited for it to dry then drove it around. No leaks so far!

All you did is retain the leaked oil behind that plate, where it will build up. Pull the plate and see what's behind it... should be dry, but yours almost certainly is not. Looks to be your rear main seal leaking.
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Old Feb 17, 2010 | 01:11 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Red_Chili
All you did is retain the leaked oil behind that plate, where it will build up. Pull the plate and see what's behind it... should be dry, but yours almost certainly is not. Looks to be your rear main seal leaking.

Well i think that will do as a short term fix for now. The leak isn't really that bad, has not dripped oil in the driveway yet, it just builds up on the bottom of the bellhousing. I called the stealership and they quoted $970 to fix it. I will be looking around san diego area for a reasonable quote, or maybe i'll try the Bearin seal by Solder seal. Some peeps here swear it works.
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Old Feb 18, 2010 | 05:57 AM
  #24  
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Yeah, rear mains are a bit of a pain. I have not pulled an auto trans but pulling the manual is usually the easiest way to get to it. Maybe the same, dunno.

I am usually pretty cautious about seal-em-up additives (especially coolant sealers bad juju) but have no experience with the product you mention. Might be worth a shot, I expect it simply has chemicals that swell the plastic in the seal. No idea about impact to longevity. I suppose worst case, you get to replace ALL the seals if it goes awry.

Try starting with using dino oil in place of Mobil1. See if that slows the leak.
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Old Feb 18, 2010 | 06:46 AM
  #25  
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red chili is right the easiest way to get to the rear main seal is to pull the tranny but if u have the know how and some friends to help and the tools i say do it yourself bc the seal is like $30 and you could save yourself a whole lota money remember good friends and a few cases of beer are a whole lot cheaper than any stealership
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Old Feb 18, 2010 | 03:45 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Red_Chili
Try starting with using dino oil in place of Mobil1. See if that slows the leak.
I have never used synthetic oil or Mobil1 before, I just use dyno oil and change it every 3k miles or 3 months w.e.c.f. Maybe I should start using synthetic oil.

Btw, anyone in san diego area that would like to help me change my rear main seal? I'll buy you a 6-pack of your favorite beer plus $150.
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Old Feb 19, 2010 | 02:32 PM
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I would like to help but I am located in CT. I just replaced my rear main seal a few weeks ago. Yes, I recomend finding some buddies for help and the use of air tools. I did mine on my own but had a lift, tools, experience etc. and it was still a pain in the a$$.
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Old Feb 23, 2010 | 08:04 AM
  #28  
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I picked up the passenger side valve cover gasket, bolt grommets, spark plug tube seals & FIPG from the dealer this morning and will get started shortly.


Andreas
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Old Feb 23, 2010 | 04:33 PM
  #29  
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Well, the passenger side is done. But not without a snag or two....

I removed everything, bead blasted the aging valve cover, thoroughly cleaned it and clear coated it with Duplicolor high temp.

First snag: I tried to remove the PCV grommet from the valve cover - it fell apart. Luckily I had a friend running errands so he was able to pick up another from the dealer.

Then I put everything back together (FIPG in the corners, etc.) and hit another snag. The bolt holding the middle coil pack to the valve cover sheared off as I snugged it down. Even though I've completed numerous spark plug changes on this engine over the years....

So I carefully drilled the offending bolt and was able to extract it with an easy-out. Figured out the thread size & pitch (6mm, 1.00) and chased the threads in the valve cover with a tap.

So now it's all back together and running fine. Time will tell if the leak stops. I'll save the driver's side for when I have a wide-open weekend....

Oh, and thanks to my friend Robb (avalonracing) for all of your help today.


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Andreas

Last edited by aowRS; Feb 23, 2010 at 04:40 PM.
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Old Feb 24, 2010 | 03:26 PM
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Nice photos...hope it stays sealed for ya!
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Old Feb 25, 2010 | 02:12 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by finder216
Nice photos...hope it stays sealed for ya!
That makes two of us!


Andreas
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Old Feb 25, 2010 | 02:56 PM
  #32  
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yeah, very nice/clear pictures.

I see that you cleaned your valve cover very well.
what type of cleaning agent did you use? how?
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Old Feb 25, 2010 | 03:07 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by logsurfer
yeah, very nice/clear pictures.

I see that you cleaned your valve cover very well.
what type of cleaning agent did you use? how?
He bead/media blasted it.
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Old Feb 27, 2010 | 06:38 PM
  #34  
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FYI

dont forget the (cam cover plugs) in the back held down by this cam journal in your picture.
Attached Thumbnails 3.4L Oil Leaks (150k)-cam-cover-2-.jpg  
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Old Mar 3, 2010 | 05:50 PM
  #35  
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Driver's side valve cover off, no serious sludge to speak of for 150k.


Rear cam journal, cam plug in the center of it. The factory VGC is still in place.


journal removed, cam plug cleaned up and coated in grey RTV, ready to reinstall journal.

The driver's side was more involved, I took my time, which resulted in probably 3-4 hours. I also replaced the intake plenum/manifold gaskets (2) for good measure. There was some oil residue in the intake manifold tubes, so not sure if that's a result of wearing rings or a plugged PCV system (all tubes appeared clear.) Just have to keep an eye on it.

Last edited by CYi5; Mar 3, 2010 at 05:53 PM.
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Old Mar 3, 2010 | 05:57 PM
  #36  
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CYi5...Thanks a lot for the great photos. I'm keeping this thread bookmarked for help on the valve covers (it IS coming).
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Old Mar 3, 2010 | 06:26 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by CYi5
Driver's side valve cover off, no serious sludge to speak of for 150k.
Excellent pics and nice work!


Andreas
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Old Mar 3, 2010 | 07:31 PM
  #38  
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My pleasure, it's always nice to have visuals when tearing into an engine! I'll be doing the rear main seal install this weekend as well with the help of a TTORA (gasp ) member. I'll do my best to get some shots of it as well.
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Old Mar 3, 2010 | 10:18 PM
  #39  
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please do! i would appreciate it very much!

i've got three leaks so far:
1. rear main
2. oil pan
3. round silver thing found at the right side of the oil filter.

I hope you get yours fixed.
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Old Mar 4, 2010 | 05:22 AM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by logsurfer
3. round silver thing found at the right side of the oil filter.
Oil cooler.
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