96 T-100 3.4-100k
Oil changed w/o enough oil. T-100 returned to me after a couple hundred mile trip (sister borrowed to move, had oil changed). Oil barely touched dipstick.
Truck now has lifter/steady tick coming from passenger side rear head area.
Tick increases with RPM increase. Coolant appears fine.
I have searched for a how-to.
Figure I might as well do the timing belt...
Can I remove lifters/cam without pulling head? Without pulling intake?
Any way to determine if crank bearings are shot without taking apart?
I'm hoping I can re-do the lifters, inspect cam lobes and replace if neccassary and keep it going. I'll monitor the oil level often add Lucas oil stabilizer and hope she holds.
Thanks for a thread or knowledge...

 

Are you sure it's not just an exhaust leak? It sounds like your oil level wasn't very low for very long.

Rob

 

the 3.4 is a Over head cam motor, it dose not have "lifters" is has shims but they dont need to be replaced

 

Re: Overhead Cam-that's why I was hoping I could take the cam out without pulling heads.
I know they aren't lifters like say the'ole chevy, but it is a definate valve train noise. Can the "shims" stick then or be serviced?
I figured I would change belt and if possible pull both valve covers, inspect cam lobes for galling or lobe erosion.
It's sounds like an 'ole 3.1 liter gm motor or something.....

Between now and then I will run a valve cleaner though it, change oil and add lucas oil stabilizer

#2 I would like to avoid a new timing belt if the crank bearings are gone, and am trying to determine how I would know that without actually looking at them.

Thanks

 

Try running synthetic in the motor and see if it doesn't quiet down a bit.
Adjusting the shims is a major PITA on a dual OHC motor like the 3.4L

If you want to see what you're in for have a look at my thread:
http://www.ultimateyota.com/index.ph...28026#msg28026

 

Cam lobes are often the first thing to suffer when oil gets really low. Since there are no lifters, you cams may have suffered. As suggested, you can try shimming them and hope for the best. Many moons ago the dealer wanted $500 to adjust my 3.0 valves. Probably higher than that now. I would also do 10-30 Moble 1 to mitigate further wear. Tighten the exhaust manifolds, as suggested, nothing to loose now. Do not put that Lucas crap in the motor. Its very high viscosity and only good for ...... nothing but worn out motors. Yes you can pull the cams without pulling the heads but I would probably go ahead and send the heads to the shop for a valve job and let them set the clearances while they grind the valves. Oil pressure will determine status of crank bearings. Figure 10 psi for each 1000 rpm's. You will play he11 trying to set the valve clearance yourself because the 24 shims are a struggle to remove and you have no shims, but the dealer does and they are expensive. Perhaps, though, only a few need to be thicker?

My $0.02

 

Thanks for the .02...
And the advice about oil pressure/crank bearings..
I've been "into" my 22re, then got a 3.0 now this...
I'm not a "pro" but can usually get it done in two or three times the book quoted time. We'll see..
Thanks for it though, I'm hoping to have this truck for another 5-6 years.
New motor or not

Martin

 

I have always had good luck with Lucas in good and failing motors. If you have a problem with the motor anyways I say it is worth a shot. I know there was an argument in the past about this.