frankenrunner

hey, Doc279, thanx for the offer, but i would prefer an unmodified exhaust set up so that i can tinker on it w/o any aftermarket influence that may serve to direct my, some say "misguided"(heh, heh, heh) efforts off on the wrong tangent...i prefer my victims, uh test subjects, to be free of any outside influence.
that's why i'm working to touch base w/"rivercat", who's apparently got him some aftermarket headers & does'nt need the oem anymore.
thanx anyway

Doc279

No problem - you are going to do it exactly like I did it - on a 4 runner there is no other way. I do hope that you have at least a 1" body lift - there is not much room ! Remove the wheels and set the runner on jack stands -
remove any inner fender skirting and you can almost get to the cross-over pipe nuts. combination of swivel handle ratchet, 14 mm short and deep well sockets and a 14 mm wrench. Wear mechanic gloves to prevent bleeding !

The cross-over will come out the driver side fender well hole. good luck

Doc279

maybe ? I have the K&N filter / throttle body is modified / I have brand new injectors / new motor 12,000 miles ago. I do not have a Cat and the muffler is free flowing. I left the timing alone and due to the performance loss - I did not want to spend another $200.00 on 2.25" pipe and muffler to see what happens. I run 31 X 10.50 tires and have 4.56 gears with an
automatic. I have plenty of power - I was just looking for a little more.

I can maintain 75 - 80 miles per hour with the OD on with no problem. Itb pulls my 20' Sea Ray and my 12" pop up camper with no problem. Sounds strange but once up to speed - the runner and what ever I am towing runs better. Almost like the load is pushing the runner.

rivercat

just saw this, still have the parts: your's for free if you pay shipping but that might be a little bit...

greybeard

I've just seen this as well.
I've been speaking to a bloke on the surf forum ( Australia ) about the mods he has done to his exhaust on his v6 4runner.

Quote:

The exhaust on the V6 4Runners is insanely restrictive. If you
didn't know, the RHS exhaust manifold goes into a small crossover pipe around the back of the motor, which joins into the LHS manifold. Then all out a tiny exhaust from there.
I didn't get extractors, but what I did is apparently almost as good, but at half the price.
What I did was get an exhaust shop to cut out the x-over pipe. Then weld shut the input flange on the LHS manifold. I then got a custom twin pipe set up 2 1/4" which join down behind the transfer case. They then run into a bigger single unit with high flow cat and muffler.
The result is well worth it, and the V6 sounds freakin tough.


I've asked him a few more questions:

Quote:

The exhaust behind the join goes into 2.5". I did this because I didn't want to lose any bottom end torque like you said by going to a 3". The result was great, I think it goes as good now with the 33's on as it did with the 31's without the exhaust. Seat of the pants it feels heaps better, the motor revs a heap more freely. I think the next best mods for that department would be to lose the clutch fan and remove the intake silencer.....

The sensor is located just after the Y joiner, right in front of the cat...

Bumpin' Yota

3" exhaust was suggested??? that's freakin HUGE unless you have a turbocharged runner...

greybeard

found some more info from another owner
http://www.4wdmonthly.com.au/forum/i...d=6133;start=0

callmej75

"Add to favorites"

callmej75

I'm going to a muffler shop tomorrow to get an estimate on cutting out my stock crossover, fabbing me up 2" pipe coming off pass. side and drivers side and the passenger side connecting to the drivers side and running 2.5" the rest of the way out into a flowmaster. Advance timing a little and do the custom TB pipe mod and it should be a little better!

jimstoy

here are three photos. first of my drivers side manifold exhaust connection.[IMG][/IMG]
next the passenger side.
[IMG][/IMG]
The y-pipe [IMG][/IMG]
The pictures are from my cell phone. So the quality isn't the best. The pss side pipe runs along the frame and crosses over behind the trnsfer case to the y in front of the cat. This was the work of a former owner. Performance gain? I don't know.
The only other 4runners Ive driven have been bigbadblue with those 35's & 5.29's and cj'sredrunner set up the same way. Blue is an auto. red a 5-speed both were a slower than my 4runner. Hope this helps.
jim

jimstoy

[IMG][/IMG] Here's the y-pipe.
jim

Eric

that is exactly what i'm going to do... some people were saying that behind the transfer case is a problem becuase it runs too close to the gas tank... but I don't think that matters. My old M3 would run 650 degrees at the muffler at the end of the car on track days, and it had the ehxaust piped inches underneath the gas tank.

jimstoy

I've been driving this three years every day on the street on in the hills. Hasn't blown up yet . Good luck with this mod.
jim

ATP4984

I'm curious to see how changing the timing might affect the engine with the crossover off.

94x4

"Doc279", been checking out your old posts and such a bout the exhaust modifications...

I've covered this to some degree in the post "3vze exhaust valve", wherein I discussed eliminating the crossover pipe and running duals. However, instead of merely capping off the "downpipe flange", I've suggested
completely removing the driver's side exhaust manifold with the crossover pipe.
You can then locate another passenger's side exhaust manifold, flip it upside down and place it on the driver's side of the block (it will mate up perfectly).
Then, cut off the mounting flanges on the crossover pipe and use them to insure good mating to the new exhaust that you run out from there.
While this "mod" has been covered before, I hope that all will be able to see that the usage of a second passenger's side exhaust manifold placed on the driver's side will lessen the need for extensive modifications and in so doing, lessen the expense, which is what this all started over anyway.