After reading this I decided to try out the oem filter. I also changed from syn 10w-30 to syn 5w-40. My guage was in the safe zone..barely. After this switch I have mid guage pressure when fully warm cruising on the interstate. My idle is lower middle instead of at the very bottom. No other appreciable changes yet.

I realize the guage in the dash is nothing more than a fancy "idiot light". But is better than nothing.

 

After driving all day in the summer, the needle sits on the first line after the start of the gauge at idle, and is anywhere from the middle to between the 2nd and 3rd lines while driving depending on RPM/other conditions. I run 10w30 btw.

 

You also could have a restricted oil pump pickup screen.I've seen this alot on hondas.The screen gets plugged with sludge and reduces flow to the pump.Unfortunately you would have to pull the pan to inspect it.If the truck has seen extended oil change intervals then it might be worthwhile to check.

 

Are there any national chains that sell anything other than purolator and Fram - just put in a fram about 50 miles ago and now I am reconsidering. Should I wait about 2K miles and then change it out? or does this filter need to come off immediately?

Opinions please

 

Nother vote for that's normal. Sometimes mine shows no pressure at all, but I know the oil is circulating as the pump was new OEM when the motor was installed and it gets regular changes.

 

I had mine at the dealer and they said it's common for the gauge to go bad.Mine is the same way,it reads in the middle when cold and it sits half way between the 1st line and 2nd.

 

In the manual it says that they are designed to run on as little as 4 psi at idle. Crazy i know but it's true. My old engine was at low all the time I had it.

 

i gotta say i am so far enjoying hearing the "thats normal" sounds like my ole toyoti is gonna be a good runner, that an i take care of my cars almost too well

 

The comment about the 3.0 being very similar to the 3.4...

They arnt. Very different motors.

 

I have a mechanical gauge. My original engine got what I'd consider 'good' pressure. That is holding 50+psi HOT.

That engine needed rebuilt due to head gasket leaks (pitting of the cyl walls.) Sadly I fell for the line of BS Tim Jenkins of DOA Racing was shouveling and at considerable expense got a new motor built by Dead On Arrivial - which pretty much sums up my experience.

Engine had low pressure from day 1 and blew in less than 1000 miles.
Tim decided (and left a message on my ans machine before actually receiving the motor) that "I would pay for this".
Note here he didn't say this until the engine was in transit to him and he made this statement on my answering machine BEFORE receiving the Dead motor for inspection.
No surprise his 'inspection' revealed it was my fault.
Since he now had my engine he decided to charge me another $1500 for 'inspection' and another $600 for return freight. Being that he's in CA and I'm in SC he knew there was nothing I could do.

Second try at the motor (local rebuild shop) also had low pressure and subsequently blew again.
Third try we replaced most of Tim's trash (block, crank, rods, pump, etc) and now got 'fair' oil pressure.

When it's hot hot hot (running highway w/ AC in hot weather) it's about 35psi, and I pull in (let motor idle) it drops to about 6-10 psi. Cold it's over 80psi.

This is running Mobile1 15-50, any other oil (like dino 20-50) and the pressure at hot idle drops to near zero.

With the large changes in pressure & temperature it makes me wonder if the engine needs a better oil cooler, however I think this is a bandaid for problems caused by Tim's modifications of the top end which we reused.

Needless to say I got royally screwed by Tim Jenkins and Dead on Arrivial Racing. DOA pretty well describes my experience with this company. Total bill by the time it was all said and done was nearly $10,000 and over a year of downtime.

 

Fram oil filters are junk>They have gotten cheaper and cheaper made.As far as the oil press gose.Just put on an aftermarket oil press gauge and see what it reads!You can even buy one that has a steel flex hose that screws into the block just for testing needs.Then you unscrew it and install the old sending unit.That way you know for sure what you have.

 

I have just done the SR5 instrument cluster swap, so I now have an oil psi gauge to watch. Mine behaves as those mentioned in this thread. I am currently using Wix filters, which I think is a good product, but I am definitely going for oem next oil change to see if my oil pressure increases. I run 40HD oil because of mileage and constant hot temperatures. I do find it strange that most people's oil pressure operates in a range that the owners manual describes as low.