Guys.. is anyone intersted in sway bar disconnects kinda like Robinhoods?? I am going to be making some for mine using the rod ends and I am sourcing out parts.. I may be able to get a good deal on some poly bushings off e-bay, but I will have a couple sets..

I have one person interested, and I think once I have the drill points made for the link, making them will be easy.

These will be using a shaft collar with an indent drilled to keep it from slipping, polly bushings. The bolt will not be a fully threaded bolt only on the top.. a locking pin under the rod end and a nylon nut on top with a second pin to keep it from backing off..

I may be making rear disco's as well... I bought 4 rod ends and I am planing on making rears for myself..

Also.. Anyone know a good source for 3/8" rod ends???
and the average price for a set of 4 poly bushings??

Thanks, and let me know here of by e-mail...

 

Lee, I might be interested in a pair down the road.
How hard are they to disco one installed?
I think the 3rd gens setup is easier to get in there and take off right?

I have a yellow poly bushing on the stock one now, and you can see it here below the lower shock eyelet.

Will it work with your setup, or does it just get replaced?

 

Try www.mcmastercarr.com

 

I JUST installed a set of red, poly bushing on my front end.

If I can still use them, I am VERY interested in a set of disco's.

The only thing that worries me about em is that robinhood's front end disco's are exactly like my rear end sway links and my front end sway links use 4 cushions each unlike Robinhood's front end. Ill post pics as soon as I can...

Thanks,
Steve

 

Corey, yes I paln on them using stock bushing sizes.. So you can use them...

Steve, what year truck do you have??

PS.. They will be easy to disconnect.. All that will be needed to do is to remove the top pin, loosen the top nut about a turn, and pull the lower pin.. I will be testing them with springs to see it they interfer with droop.. (I will also be adding the lo-profile bump stops too)

 

I almost forgot.. I came up with another change.. I am going to buy a 10" bolt without full threads, I will use the new bolt threads for the lower bushings and cut it to length.. Then I plan on tapping some new threads on the top section.. This way I do not need those lock collars and I do not need to worry about the threads filling with dirt and causing wear on the rod end.. That is my reason I want to stay away from running the rod ends on thread.. I want them to be only on the smooth shaft of the bolt

 

Lee, Keep me in the loop on this one. I would also be very interested in them as well.

Thanks

 

I am interested in a set of those when you get them made. I look forward to some pics as well.

Andrew

 

This may be a dumb question but how exactly do these work? After looking at the setup Robinhood150 did I can see how by pulling the pin the suspension will have more travel up but what about down? Do you also remove the top nut for travel down?

 

Sway bars work by twisting the bars.. with both sides loose, they should not be able to twist.. You should not have to remove the top nut.. I will be testing them once I am done though...

 

Well, the sway bar isn't rigidly attached to the frame, it is free to rotate so it can travel down with the nut.

Steve

 

So how much additional travel does this mod give you?

 

It doesn't really give you more travel, per se, but rather better articulation. But to answer your question, I've never quantified the gains in articulation with a RTI ramp so I don't know. It should be very similar to removing the swaybar all together, especially with the limited travel of the 2nd gen ifs.

Steve

 

I'm interested

 

I have a 1990 sr5 4x4 with the 3vze engine. Its going to be a day or 2 for the pics of my front sway bar... (I need a digital camera...lol)

steve