Ok it is time to replace the pads on my 91. What brand & type brake pads should I go with? Also I want slotted rotors, whats a good quality inexpensive brand? Also for the "do it yourselfers", I am going to do my own brake job but wanted to ask a few Qs. What size socket do I need for the hub? How tight do I need to tighten the hub nut when I am putting it back together? Do I need to have the brand new rotors turned prior to installing them? Any of tips or tricks you guys have? Thanks guys & Gals!

 

Can't help you too much on brands. I usually just get the middle of the line stuff from autozone. New rotors should not require turning, but double check w/ the seller.

As for the hub nut, a 2 1/8" socket works great (availabe at sears for $30). When I put my hub nuts back on I tightened the first nut down fairly snug but not so tight that it was restricting hub and rotor movement. Haynes calls for tightenining the first nut (the adjusting nut) down to 43 ft.-lbs. then backing it off until it can just be turned by hand. Check the bearing preload w/ a spring scale (force required to get the rotor/hub spinning). Then retighten the first nut to 18 ft-lbs. Put on the lock washer and then the second hub nut at 33 ft-lbs. Recheck the preload. It should bbe 6 - 12 ft lbs more then measured w/o the first nut tightened down. If that's not the case, tighten or loosen the nuts as needed. Don't forget to bend over the tabs on the locking washer when its tightened correctly.

Haven't actually replaced the rotor (just removed rotor and hub), but I would have some wheel bearing grease on hand for reinstallation in case the bearings look like they could use some.

 

So in this order right? Pull the wheel,caliper,hub nuts,hub/rotor,and thats it. Should the hub just pull off with ease? Do I replace the dust cover seals? While its off should I just take the hub down to be greased up? The reason I asked about hub nut tightness was being its a toyota. I have worked on explorers and I am guessing they are the same idea? I use to just pull the dust cover seals out tap new ones in and throw the hub assy. back on. Then I would finger tighten the 1st nut then a 1/4 turn. I would then do a spin test and throw the 2nd nut on and in turn the retaining piece aswell as cotter pin. Its been a while but thats all im the back of my brains filing system. Is that all going to work. I do not any longer have a torque wrench so I was thinking of doing it with the "feel" that i described.

 

The hub and brake rotor come off together. Sometimes seperating the rotor from the hub can be a PITA. Six bolts on the inside come off easy. But the two pieces can be seized together. If you cannot seperate them with a hammer a machine shop can press them apart OR just turn the whole assembly on the brake lathe if they are within spec. When I took mine to the machine shop I used to work at to be pressed apart, the press operator kept saying, "are you sure these come apart?"

 

I found a ratheting 1/2" drive 150 ft lb torque wrench at Northern Tools for $25 with tax. I checked it on our calibrated torque wrench tester at work, and it was within 2% of the indicated value.

I just changed my rotors/pads today, and the torque wrench came in handy. The 2 caliper to hub bolts are supposed to be 90 ft lbs, hate to guess that by hand.

Once off, I put the rotor/hub back into the removed wheel with a couple lugs snugged, and it made it really easy to remove the disc from the hub, and torque back on. Found the tip online somewhere.

Also, I had to remove a snap ring and washer before the hub nuts came off, which wasn't that bad to remove with snap ring pliers, and when I re-installed the snap ring, I used a 30mm socket, and pushed it on with that, made it easy.

I also lucked out, we had 4 each of 2 1/8" sockets at work, so my supervisor let me have one.

I went to Autozone, and installed the Performance Friction Carbon pads, #4364 for a 94 Toy Pickup, and they matched the ones that came off.

I think the brakes changed, so these may not work on a '91. Just surf autozone.com and compare between the different year Toys.

 

Hey thanks for that info 95 that will help me a lot. I just made a list of tools to go pick up.

 

Are you sure the rotors need replaced? They may just need turned, and if so, a shop will more than likely just turn them on the vehicle without taking the hub/rotor assembly completely apart. However, if you need new rotors, that is a different story.

It tooks us about 2.5 hours to do both sides of my rig, but we also had access to any tool we needed in the garage. Make sure to repack your front wheel bearings and order new grease seals if you do in fact take the rotor/hubs all the way off.

 

All I know is that they have the worst warp in them. Plus I want the slotted or cross drilled rotors not only because they look so dang cool but they will keep them cooler. I have ran into issues with which pads to use though. I look in my catalogs and alot skip the 1991 year. I dont see the diff. between 91 & 92 braking systems. Anyone know?