Check engine light on a 2000 4runner shows to be "shift solenoid E electrical". The transmission seems to shift fine but there is no lockup after 50mph...is there supposed to be? From a stop it will shift First to Second...Second to Third...Third to Fourth. And after that there is no other drop in engine rpms. Is there supposed to be a converter lockup to drop the rpms a little more after the 4th gear or is this just for some models? I have a 4x4 automatic trans with overdrive. I have not seen the strawberry milkshake that seems to be common, the fluid looks new, no burnt smell, the level is correct. I took it to a shop and was told it might need a rebuild for 2400.00 which I can't do right now. So the shop disabled the check engine light and it came back 2 days later. Any opinions on this?

 

Anyone know how to test the circuit for the E solenoid? I'd like to verify the circuit is ok before replacing the solenoid. Maybe it's just a bad wire.

 

Dale,

Here is a link to the FSM for your 4 runner. It should contain testing procedures for the transmission.

http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/

I have read where some members have used an ohm meter to check the solenoids. I'd be willing to bet the farm that the solenoid is mostly likely dead, and should be replaced. You get get a full set of three for the A340 transmission for $180. Change your filter while you are at it...

 

Thank you for that information. I priced the parts at the dealer at 209.00 for the SL solenoid and 78.00 for the new filter. And probably another hundred for fluid at 7.00 a quart. Damn. Ruined my week.

 

I read that the solenoid or valve body could have some debris lodged in it preventing fluid from reaching the SL solenoid and the article recommended to shift manually a few times starting in 1st gear to get the rpms up. Well I did this a few times getting the rpms up to around 3-4k and now it shifts with no problem, the tcc locks up at 50mph as expected when I start out in Drive, but the check engine light is still on. I baby this vehicle and the rpms rarely get over 2000 because I want it to last, I drive old man style, shooting for 300k. Currently only 126k. Whatever was lodged must have broken free, so i'm not sure if I should do a complete flush on it. I was thinking a few drain and fills over the next couple of weeks may be better. Will the check engine light go off over time?

 

Check engine light just went out a few minutes ago taking the kids to preschool. The transmission shifts smooth through all the gears and locks up at around 50mph as it's supposed to. Strange,-It fixed itself. Turned out to be a good week after all.