2" BL installed...pics
#43
Originally Posted by Bigkahuna808
I was thinking that so, do they sell thoes over at Home Depot?
LockTite would be a possibility as well!
#44
Originally Posted by <96 Runner>
I would also like to remind everyone to check the BL bolts and nuts often. I have found mine considerably loose on more than one occasion. I think the reason they start to loosen is because the factory bolt had a safety stopper on it and the bolts included with the kit do not (at least mine didn't).
Just a heads up.
Just a heads up.
diss izz where I got them out, ask for Clay if he's still working in the shop. Say "Roll Tide" to him and he'll get you hooked up with whatever you ask for. haha, he's a Bama fan!
http://www.carsons-nbt.com/
I also used a deep socket and hammered the safety washer (the one with the tab) off the stock bolts and put a lock washer between the new bolts head and the safety washer, this keeps the bolts from turning and allows you to use the stock safety as 96runner suggested.
Last edited by keisur; Oct 27, 2004 at 03:00 PM.
#45
Originally Posted by TStango
I picked up some composite trim materials at Home depot to fill the gap between the TJM and the body. If that works out it might be worth a write up.
I'd like to see how you guys make out with that rubber material to fill the gaps between the frame and body
I'd like to see how you guys make out with that rubber material to fill the gaps between the frame and body
#47
Thanks for all the info and help here guys. I talked with roger today and he is setting me up with a 1.25" BL for my 4th gen. The install appears to be a piece of cake, and i need that extra clearance for the 37's. I'll be sure to get some pics, etc...as I will be one of the first to do this to a 4th gen. We are also working out a 4th gen diff drop. Have a good one.
Anthony
Anthony
Last edited by fourunnabilly; Oct 28, 2004 at 10:04 AM.
#48
I could not take looking at the towing package and the spare hanging down and had to take them off. I am going to get the crossmember raised if i ever get a chance. It doesnt look that hard if you just cut it loose and raised it 2 inches. I tried to flip my hitch just like you keisure but it was a little bit to wide. I drilled a hole in the grey bumper pad so that the crank would hit the hole. I got tied of pulling off the pad because I have a painted back bumper and it scratches the piss out of it. I was am going to use some black floor mats to fill in the body gap.
#49
Originally Posted by 4runner4me
I was am going to use some black floor mats to fill in the body gap.
#50
Thread Starter
Contributing Member
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 7,122
Likes: 6
From: 5th Gen San Diegan, California
Okay, heres the stuff I bought.
Well, I've already cut it out. These are just for the rear gaps.
I asked the guy at OSH about how durable it was. He told me: "Its extremely durable, it will NOT break down or tear". He actually had a hard time cutting it with the razor knife. I had to use my industrial scissors to cut it!
He also said that its real rubber, and "none of that plastic crap". Its really flexy and smells good.
It was on a big roll, labled: "rubber black matting". For the 3 foot wide roll, it was $5.70 per foot. So I ended up getting a 3'x2' peice, and I think I'll be able to get the front gap gaurds cut w/o any problems.
I bought some screws and will be fastening them on the rear that way. For the front, im just going to use the black snap-on tab things again. Im going to have to drill through this stuff though too.



Yes, your correct. You need to run them on 16x8 wheels minimum. You'll also need a wheel with 3.75" backspacing to clear the A-Arm. Unless of course you have some wheel spacers.
I just actually had to cancel my order. I'll probably end up going for 285/75/16's sometime. The 12.50's look too wide on the 4runner anyways IMO.
Well, I've already cut it out. These are just for the rear gaps.
I asked the guy at OSH about how durable it was. He told me: "Its extremely durable, it will NOT break down or tear". He actually had a hard time cutting it with the razor knife. I had to use my industrial scissors to cut it!
He also said that its real rubber, and "none of that plastic crap". Its really flexy and smells good.
It was on a big roll, labled: "rubber black matting". For the 3 foot wide roll, it was $5.70 per foot. So I ended up getting a 3'x2' peice, and I think I'll be able to get the front gap gaurds cut w/o any problems.
I bought some screws and will be fastening them on the rear that way. For the front, im just going to use the black snap-on tab things again. Im going to have to drill through this stuff though too.



Originally Posted by GreenRunner
Quick question on the 305/70/16s you ordered. Are you sure they'll fit on the stock rim? I'm assuming you have the 16X7 rim, because most people put this size tire on a 16X8 rim. And do you have the stock A-arms? The backspacing on the stock rims will most certainly allow the 305/70/16s to contact the stock A-arm.
I just actually had to cancel my order. I'll probably end up going for 285/75/16's sometime. The 12.50's look too wide on the 4runner anyways IMO.
Last edited by BajaRunner; Oct 27, 2004 at 06:24 PM.
#51
What-uh what is OSH? Orchard Supply Hardware? Since it's only in Cali I'll have to go uh-looking here in Greenville on Saturday for a comparable product.
Last edited by keisur; Oct 27, 2004 at 06:37 PM.
#53
Damn I wish I had that store here in Hawaii. I went to Ace hardware today, and nothing. I went to City Mill (Local Store) nothing from them. It looks like Im gonna have to go to Home Depot or Lowes. To look for rubber floor matting. Thanks for the info
#54
Originally Posted by keisur
What-uh what is OSH? Orchard Supply Hardware? Since it's only in Cali I'll have to go uh-looking here in Greenville on Saturday for a comparable product.
It was a couple of years ago, but I found it at Home Depot... It was on a roll in an end-display, back around the linoleum flooring.
#55
Thread Starter
Contributing Member
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 7,122
Likes: 6
From: 5th Gen San Diegan, California
Yes, that sounds like the same stuff.
I mean, Im sure there are several things that will work out there... I just picked the best stuff that I could find at the store!
Luckily, the guy also told me that it was real rubber and the stuff is indestructable.
I think the main characteristic of this stuff is that it has the ribbed side (for your pleasure).
The other side is smooth, almost glossy when new.
Lastly, it smells like a new toy.
I mean, Im sure there are several things that will work out there... I just picked the best stuff that I could find at the store!
Luckily, the guy also told me that it was real rubber and the stuff is indestructable.

I think the main characteristic of this stuff is that it has the ribbed side (for your pleasure).
The other side is smooth, almost glossy when new.
Lastly, it smells like a new toy.
#57
Originally Posted by TStango
Nice pictures. Your 96' looks mighty clean from underneath. It's time to wheel that thing.
I just swapped out my 1" 4crawler BL for a 2" one this past Sunday. I could have used those boogie boards. The job was sooo much easier the second time around and air tools cut the install time in half.
I took care of the spare tire issue with the 1" BL by enlargening the whole in the body. I think I have an old picture on webshots linked to my sig. (I can't check here at work). I haven't had a chance to check & see if this still works with the 2"er or if it needs further modification. To do it right, I would like to raise the whole assembly like Schaeffer did.
I also want to do something about the hitch being so low. I hate that thing.
I picked up some composite trim materials at Home depot to fill the gap between the TJM and the body. If that works out it might be worth a write up.
I'd like to see how you guys make out with that rubber material to fill the gaps between the frame and body
I just swapped out my 1" 4crawler BL for a 2" one this past Sunday. I could have used those boogie boards. The job was sooo much easier the second time around and air tools cut the install time in half.
I took care of the spare tire issue with the 1" BL by enlargening the whole in the body. I think I have an old picture on webshots linked to my sig. (I can't check here at work). I haven't had a chance to check & see if this still works with the 2"er or if it needs further modification. To do it right, I would like to raise the whole assembly like Schaeffer did.
I also want to do something about the hitch being so low. I hate that thing.
I picked up some composite trim materials at Home depot to fill the gap between the TJM and the body. If that works out it might be worth a write up.
I'd like to see how you guys make out with that rubber material to fill the gaps between the frame and body
#58
Originally Posted by SC4Runner
.
yes, your correct. You need to run them on 16x8 wheels minimum. You'll also need a wheel with 3.75" backspacing to clear the A-Arm. Unless of course you have some wheel spacers.
I just actually had to cancel my order. I'll probably end up going for 285/75/16's sometime. The 12.50's look too wide on the 4runner anyways IMO.
yes, your correct. You need to run them on 16x8 wheels minimum. You'll also need a wheel with 3.75" backspacing to clear the A-Arm. Unless of course you have some wheel spacers.
I just actually had to cancel my order. I'll probably end up going for 285/75/16's sometime. The 12.50's look too wide on the 4runner anyways IMO.
this is a pic of my truck with 305 mtr's. Anything smaller is to skinny I think.

#59
Originally Posted by 4runner4me
You are right you cant put a 12.50 on a 7" wheel. But you do not need 3.75 bs to make it work with a 16x8. It actually works beter with a 4.0bs because you dont have to worry about hitting the arms or the out side of tie hitting fenders. I think with 4 or 5 inches of lift on a 3rd gen it looks to tippsy and skinny with 285's. I think the 305 is perfect. I also dont like that a 285 looks like it is 11.5 wide or that a 305 looks like a 12.50 when compaired to a 15 wheel.
this is a pic of my truck with 305 mtr's. Anything smaller is to skinny I think.
this is a pic of my truck with 305 mtr's. Anything smaller is to skinny I think.
have you fully flexed that thing with the 305's yet? I had to remove the rear mud guards and the front mud guards with my 285's or they would have been removed by the tire at full flex and the 305's and 285's aren't that much different in OD.
I also don't understand, are you saying you don't like that the 285's and 305's actually appear wider than they really are? because 285mm=11.2" and 305mm=12.0"
Last edited by keisur; Oct 28, 2004 at 09:55 AM.
#60
all I was saying was that when I had 285s my truck looked to skinny like it was top heavy. The 305 look much better in my openion. I think the reason that your wheels poke out as far as mine is because I have limited fares. That may also be the reason that 285 looked skinny. I realy hated how skinny it looked with the factory wheels 16x7 expecialy with that much lift and 285s.
I also don't understand, are you saying you don't like that the 285's and 305's actually appear wider than they really are? because 285mm=11.2" and 305mm=12.0"
I was saying that 285 dont look like they are 11.5 they look skinnyer. just like a 305 dont look like a 12.50 they look skinnyer. A 33 12.50 15 looks much wider than a 305/70/16 that was the point i was trying to make.
I also don't understand, are you saying you don't like that the 285's and 305's actually appear wider than they really are? because 285mm=11.2" and 305mm=12.0"
I was saying that 285 dont look like they are 11.5 they look skinnyer. just like a 305 dont look like a 12.50 they look skinnyer. A 33 12.50 15 looks much wider than a 305/70/16 that was the point i was trying to make.


