Well what happened was I brought it into the dealer, told them that I had already checked both actuators, and they took it in. An hr later, they tell me that they had just finished double checking my work, and were going to put in a new one just to see if that was the problem. Then about another hour later, they say I'm good to go. I was thinking that they would just put in a shop actuator, see if that was the problem, then confirm with me that they were indeed putting a new one in for good, but no. I check out, and all told, bill was 370.47 for everything, and thats with my 15% discount on parts AND labor. A new actuator is $265 so they didn't really rob me. I figure it wasn't worth getting on off here or ttora just cause you know what you're getting from the dealer is new and good to go for a while. Oh and MTL... *bows down* haha

 

My wife told me hers (2000 Limited) does the same thing with the blinking. Good to know what this may cost me soon.

Does anyone have a 2000 Limited Owners manual that can tell me how to shift her 2000 Limited. We just bought it a month ago (no owners manual included) and I had just assummed it shifted like my 1998 SR5. Then I found she has a totally different set-up with the locking diff options the Limiteds came with.

Thanks in advance- a just need a few pages scanned or something on how to shift it.

John

 

My wifes 2000 4Runner LTD was stuck in 4WD. Took it to the stealership and they replaced the forward and aft sensors on the top of the t-case ($466.15). That did not solve the problem.

The stealer wanted to replace the actuator on the t-case for ~ $1800.00. Told them I wanted 2nd opinion and took it home. Used the method above to get it back into 2WD + wire on #2 and - wire on #3 and it came out of 4WD just fine. In fact when I reversed the process, it went back into 4WD just fine.

Put it back into 2WD and plugged everything back in. Test drive proved it was back in 2WD. Then manually shifted into 4WD and it went back in just fine but when I shifted it out, back to the blinking 4WD trouble light and stuck again.

Crawled back under the truck, used the power wires to shift it back to 2WD just fine.

Anyone have any suggestions as to what it might be as to why it will shift into 4WD but not back to 2WD? (keep in mind if I crawl under there, and manually operate actuator, it comes out ok)

Thanks a million!!!

 

I know this thread was really done but I do have to help those in-need, hope I do not upset DoubleZero4x4 with this info in his space. But, I have received many emails to the T/S of this problem.

Will cut to the point, if you have done the previous and have not found the answer or you can start here. This entire thread is dedicated to not being able to get out of 4x4.

If you need the full version then email me. but I have now heard three people changing the front actuator and fixing the same problem. So, today I have now fixed my problem as well with the front differential lock switch, which is attached to the actuator (but cheaper)

Took the switch off the front diff actuator and tested for resistance with a multi-meter when pushed in (none). Installed new $55.00 switch for the fix. This is a 15 minute change with a large 1-1/16 fitting wrench (extra angles) or the metric size??, I just had a standard set next to me at the time. I will order 2 more to help others around Glen Allen, VA if they need help.

Let me help those who may need to know the part # since it took the right person to find the part#. The # is 84222-35070. The old switch is full of fluid and the logic of the control unit is to make sure it will go into 4x4, if unable to make 4x4 then the logic will not process the transfer case actuator to unlock, without ever getting locked in.

Please email for more questions, or invite me to help you T/S in another thread.

 

Pilottech is correct is his statement above. The front diff actuator switch tells the computer that it is locked into 4wd or unlocked into 2wd mode. If the computer doesn't receive the signal then it doesn't know what to do.

My front actuator switch is full of fluid also, and therefore it doesn't put out any reading on the multimeter. But my AWD and 4WD modes have been working again now for the last few days.

I ordered that switch as well as the center diff lock switch (on passenger side of the t-case) just so I have it in case I need it. The front diff actuator switch was $36 from my local Toyota dealer. In my thread, I posted the 4wd scans to kcebes' photo hosting site so that everyone can get them for T/S help.

 

Helping out is never a problam and certianly no reason for me to get upset.I am a pretty reasonable person.

I am glad it fixed your problem. I may just pull my switch off and test it as well. $55 is a lot better sounding than $1,800 that would not resolve the real problem.

 

Pillotech, is your 4runner fron actuator vacuum or electric and which year is it? My 2005 runner is vacuum and will there be a switch to replace?

 

Pillotech, is your 4runner front actuator vacuum or electric and which year is it? My 2005 runner is vacuum and will there be a switch to replace?