yotarob2005's 1986 4Runner Build-Up Thread
03-21-2011, 08:07 AM
#1043
Registered User
Thread Starter
After a long weekend in the garage here is as far as I got with my drive train lift. I worked my butt off but it doesn't seem like I got very far.
Body lift done. The truck seems damn tall with it installed. My 33's look pretty small.
Next to my 5 year old for reference, notice the flowers she put in my antenna hole
Motor mount spacers are in.....sorta, they are just sitting there since I still need to replace one of the mounts anyways. I might work on finishing these tonight.
Still waiting on my Bud Built crossmember so I had to stick some 2x4's in the stock one to lift the trans for now. The t-case sites much higher.
Found a motor mount in my shed. It's my buddy's but from what I understand possesion is 9 tenths of the law. The bracket is wrong but the mount is the same.
Rear drive shaft to horseshoe crossmember clerance once the trans was lifted. Not even a 1/2" - No good.
A good freind came over and helped cut out the center section and add this new piece.
Maybe this is why my exhaust sounds sooooo bad? This is right behind where the flange bolts to the exhaust manifold.
Damn the garage is a mess.
I still need to:
Modify the mounts and put the gas tank back in higher.
Replace one motor mount and get the spacers bolted up.
Fix the exhaust pipe and weld new (shorter) hangers.
Figure out what I am going to do for a transmission mount - My rubber mount is completely finished
Get my new crossmember, paint it and get it installed.
Body lift done. The truck seems damn tall with it installed. My 33's look pretty small.
Next to my 5 year old for reference, notice the flowers she put in my antenna hole
Motor mount spacers are in.....sorta, they are just sitting there since I still need to replace one of the mounts anyways. I might work on finishing these tonight.
Still waiting on my Bud Built crossmember so I had to stick some 2x4's in the stock one to lift the trans for now. The t-case sites much higher.
Found a motor mount in my shed. It's my buddy's but from what I understand possesion is 9 tenths of the law. The bracket is wrong but the mount is the same.
Rear drive shaft to horseshoe crossmember clerance once the trans was lifted. Not even a 1/2" - No good.
A good freind came over and helped cut out the center section and add this new piece.
Maybe this is why my exhaust sounds sooooo bad? This is right behind where the flange bolts to the exhaust manifold.
Damn the garage is a mess.
I still need to:
Modify the mounts and put the gas tank back in higher.
Replace one motor mount and get the spacers bolted up.
Fix the exhaust pipe and weld new (shorter) hangers.
Figure out what I am going to do for a transmission mount - My rubber mount is completely finished
Get my new crossmember, paint it and get it installed.
03-21-2011, 09:24 AM
#1045
Wow Rob, great work! BTW, your lil bittle is so adorable! She looks so serious, too! hahaha. I miss those days, ..cherish em! lol.
Very impressed by the FAB and mod work, Rob, ...it's looking great, and no way, those tires don't look too small. Not IMO, ...but it's your rig, lol. Nice job man, even with a Gimp Finger, ... Wish I had your skills!
Very impressed by the FAB and mod work, Rob, ...it's looking great, and no way, those tires don't look too small. Not IMO, ...but it's your rig, lol. Nice job man, even with a Gimp Finger, ... Wish I had your skills!
03-21-2011, 12:51 PM
#1046
Registered User
Thread Starter
Score! I found a transfercase mount that says it will fit my auto on Ebay. I know that alot of guys with auto trans have hell finding them, fingers crossed that it actually fits and they ship fast, lol. My new crossmember could not get here fast enough.
Used set of Aisin Manual hubs I won on Ebay got delivered today, along with 4 deg axle shims form Suspension connection.
Used set of Aisin Manual hubs I won on Ebay got delivered today, along with 4 deg axle shims form Suspension connection.
Last edited by yotarob2005; 03-21-2011 at 01:16 PM.
03-22-2011, 01:29 PM
#1047
Registered User
Thread Starter
Guess who is having a good day?
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f189.../#post51686844
<--- This guy.
Now mark my words, NO MORE SPENDING MONEY ON THE 4RUNNER! lol. I am going to have to lay low for awhile.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f189.../#post51686844
<--- This guy.
Now mark my words, NO MORE SPENDING MONEY ON THE 4RUNNER! lol. I am going to have to lay low for awhile.
03-22-2011, 02:15 PM
#1049
Registered User
Thread Starter
Mark my freind. Once I get his 5.29 3rd members and Aussie locker I will have both of my 4.30 3rds and Spartan locker up for sale. I was just thinking that I should let you know first incase you wanted the locker but I'll make you an A+ deal on the lot. Locker and gears already installed just swap out the 3rds and go, but shipping is going to be high and I know you have alot on your plate already.
Last edited by yotarob2005; 03-22-2011 at 02:23 PM.
03-23-2011, 06:29 PM
#1050
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Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: northen nevada
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Congrats on the new 3rds also you're new cross member y'all made is ferry nice I was thinking mabey weld the bottom closed making it like the coller cross members people use on the old drag cars if you made it big enough also if you ever broke a u joint it would keep it from hitting the ground and possibly bending the drive shaft
03-23-2011, 06:33 PM
#1051
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Doing all this typing on my phone so spell check corrects my spelling in ways I don't want it to but you have given me a new respect for body lifts and made me think about doing one then doing a drive train lift
also any way can't wait to see the final result please post plenty of pics
also any way can't wait to see the final result please post plenty of pics
03-24-2011, 05:31 AM
#1052
Registered User
Thread Starter
Got the gas tank lifted last night. It was a pain but the results are good.
Before with skid plate.
Front mount has 2 positions avaliable. The lower one is for the 4runner because of the rear seats and the upper is stock for a pick up.
All I had to do is cut away the lower mount to gain access to the stock pick up mounting location. Easier said that done.
For the rear mount I cut the bracket off and welded it up 2-1/4" higher.
The end result without the skid plate. I am going to have the do some pretty heavy modifications to the gas tank skid to get it back on.
That was well worth the 2-1/4" lift I got, the tank is much higher and safer, it hangs about a 1/2" below the frame rails. I knew this wasn't going to get me a perfectly flat belly, but I didn't want to do the 3" BL that it would take. I am pleased enough with what I have done.
Before with skid plate.
Front mount has 2 positions avaliable. The lower one is for the 4runner because of the rear seats and the upper is stock for a pick up.
All I had to do is cut away the lower mount to gain access to the stock pick up mounting location. Easier said that done.
For the rear mount I cut the bracket off and welded it up 2-1/4" higher.
The end result without the skid plate. I am going to have the do some pretty heavy modifications to the gas tank skid to get it back on.
That was well worth the 2-1/4" lift I got, the tank is much higher and safer, it hangs about a 1/2" below the frame rails. I knew this wasn't going to get me a perfectly flat belly, but I didn't want to do the 3" BL that it would take. I am pleased enough with what I have done.
Last edited by yotarob2005; 03-24-2011 at 06:18 AM.
03-24-2011, 05:56 AM
#1053
Registered User
Nice job Rob. If I am reading that right, the 4runner gas tanks sit lower then the pickup tanks?
Oh an all that beautiful Blackness under your truck, your driveshaft sticks out like a sore thumb.
Oh an all that beautiful Blackness under your truck, your driveshaft sticks out like a sore thumb.
03-24-2011, 06:01 AM
#1054
Registered User
Thread Starter
I do have a word or 2 I would like to say about body lifts and the things you read about them. I do not feel that they get a fair shake on forums like this one. You read all of the time about how they are dangerous and that people hate them. I think that people who say that have no idea what they are talking about. Just like anything else there is a right way and a wrong way to do a body lift. Some people who do them improperly using hocky pucks, 2x4's or what ever they have laying around are asking for trouble and giving body lifts a bad name. Then people see these things done half arsed and post negative things on forums like this one and others read it, not knowing anything about them and then repeat what they have read over and over again.
I think that a body lift can be done right and be safe. There are several advantages to a properly done body lift for a truck that sees some offroad abuse. An IFS truck like mine that already has a decent suspension lift can benifit from being able to raise the drive train. I predict that in my case, even with the mild 2" BL I am going to gain 4" of ground clerance at the transmission crossmember. I could have done a 4" drop bracket lift and had the same ride height and less ground clerance in the end that my 2" suspension and 2" body has, but drop bracket lifts don't really add any travel (unless you really want to get deep into $$ and add LT on top of it) they just lift the frame and suspension, which raises the center of gravity. Keeping the frame and suspension lower with the BL keeps the center of gravity lower. IMO when you are building a truck for serious wheeling you should lift it as little as possible and gain clerance anyway you can. Low and slow is the key, the guys with huge suspension lifts will be the first truck flopped on the trails I run.
Long story made short, don't listen to what all of the web wheelers tell you, talk to the guys who are out on the trails. They will tell you. There are a lot of guys who have logged more hours starring at a computer screen than they have working on there rig or wheeling it spreading oppinions about this or that of which they have no idea or experience.
Keys to a properly done body lift
1) always follow the as much as you need but as little as possible rule to determine your lift amount.
2) Be sure your factory body mount bushings are in good shape or replace them. If they are rotten then they will not hold up to the added stress of the BL spacers. You can buy a set of poly mounts for under $100
3) Buy a quality BL kit. The larger diameter the blocks the better, Grade 8 over sized hardware with large washers is a must.
4) Blocks should be made from UMHW, not aluminum and they should be solid with only one hole for the bolt.
Last edited by yotarob2005; 03-24-2011 at 06:14 AM.
03-24-2011, 06:04 AM
#1055
Registered User
Thread Starter
I know, I'll get to the drive shaft sooner or later.
03-24-2011, 06:42 AM
#1058
YotaTech Milestone-Two Millionth Post
Rob...i have to admit....for some reason, I am not on YT as much as I used to. I still check a few certain threads (yours and Mark's....and of course XXXTREME's becuz I am part of his).....but I am always quite humbled reading your stuff and most everyone elses stuff in that I don't have metal-fab skills and I don't understand alot of stuff so I kinda just spectate alot recently. likewise, life is happening alot recently for me/ us so I don't have the free time i used to.
the picture of your daughter....BEAUTIFUL!!!
your finger.....probably will heal just fine the way you fixed it but keep an eye on it. those STERI-STRIPS are gonna want to start peeling up soon enough.....just be nice to it for a week or so and you should be fine. could have always come to my ER and we woulda fixed you up nice....since that's what I do.
anyway....enjoying your stuff as usual.
the picture of your daughter....BEAUTIFUL!!!
your finger.....probably will heal just fine the way you fixed it but keep an eye on it. those STERI-STRIPS are gonna want to start peeling up soon enough.....just be nice to it for a week or so and you should be fine. could have always come to my ER and we woulda fixed you up nice....since that's what I do.
anyway....enjoying your stuff as usual.
03-24-2011, 07:30 AM
#1059
Hey Rob, your rig is looking great! I just wanted to say thanks for posting the info about body lifts! I just recently bought a 1.5" body lift from 4Crawler and I hope to be able to install it this weekend. When I was considering a body lift I did some research and most of what I found was negative feedback and warnings saying that they are dangerous and raise the center of gravity, blah blah blah. I went ahead and purchased one anyway because I just need a little extra clearance for my 33X12.5's because they still rub at full flex. I must admit that I was a little apprehensive about getting one because of all the stuff I read but your post makes me feel a lot better because it is logical and clarified the center of gravity issues. It also helps that you have a lot of experience on the trail so I am sure that you know what you are talking about, unlike some of the other people who apparently post information about body lifts.
Do you have any advice or tips that I should keep in mind when I am installing my BL?
Keep up the great work!
Do you have any advice or tips that I should keep in mind when I am installing my BL?
Keep up the great work!
Last edited by 4ever4running; 03-24-2011 at 07:34 AM.
03-24-2011, 07:49 AM
#1060
Thanks, of course I will post lots of pics. I have taken a bunch more than I have posted and I am planning on making a seperate thread on drive train lifts once I get everything complete.
I do have a word or 2 I would like to say about body lifts and the things you read about them. I do not feel that they get a fair shake on forums like this one. You read all of the time about how they are dangerous and that people hate them. I think that people who say that have no idea what they are talking about. Just like anything else there is a right way and a wrong way to do a body lift. Some people who do them improperly using hocky pucks, 2x4's or what ever they have laying around are asking for trouble and giving body lifts a bad name. Then people see these things done half arsed and post negative things on forums like this one and others read it, not knowing anything about them and then repeat what they have read over and over again.
I think that a body lift can be done right and be safe. There are several advantages to a properly done body lift for a truck that sees some offroad abuse. An IFS truck like mine that already has a decent suspension lift can benifit from being able to raise the drive train. I predict that in my case, even with the mild 2" BL I am going to gain 4" of ground clerance at the transmission crossmember. I could have done a 4" drop bracket lift and had the same ride height and less ground clerance in the end that my 2" suspension and 2" body has, but drop bracket lifts don't really add any travel (unless you really want to get deep into $$ and add LT on top of it) they just lift the frame and suspension, which raises the center of gravity. Keeping the frame and suspension lower with the BL keeps the center of gravity lower. IMO when you are building a truck for serious wheeling you should lift it as little as possible and gain clerance anyway you can. Low and slow is the key, the guys with huge suspension lifts will be the first truck flopped on the trails I run.
Long story made short, don't listen to what all of the web wheelers tell you, talk to the guys who are out on the trails. They will tell you. There are a lot of guys who have logged more hours starring at a computer screen than they have working on there rig or wheeling it spreading oppinions about this or that of which they have no idea or experience.
Keys to a properly done body lift
1) always follow the as much as you need but as little as possible rule to determine your lift amount.
2) Be sure your factory body mount bushings are in good shape or replace them. If they are rotten then they will not hold up to the added stress of the BL spacers. You can buy a set of poly mounts for under $100
3) Buy a quality BL kit. The larger diameter the blocks the better, Grade 8 over sized hardware with large washers is a must.
4) Blocks should be made from UMHW, not aluminum and they should be solid with only one hole for the bolt.
I do have a word or 2 I would like to say about body lifts and the things you read about them. I do not feel that they get a fair shake on forums like this one. You read all of the time about how they are dangerous and that people hate them. I think that people who say that have no idea what they are talking about. Just like anything else there is a right way and a wrong way to do a body lift. Some people who do them improperly using hocky pucks, 2x4's or what ever they have laying around are asking for trouble and giving body lifts a bad name. Then people see these things done half arsed and post negative things on forums like this one and others read it, not knowing anything about them and then repeat what they have read over and over again.
I think that a body lift can be done right and be safe. There are several advantages to a properly done body lift for a truck that sees some offroad abuse. An IFS truck like mine that already has a decent suspension lift can benifit from being able to raise the drive train. I predict that in my case, even with the mild 2" BL I am going to gain 4" of ground clerance at the transmission crossmember. I could have done a 4" drop bracket lift and had the same ride height and less ground clerance in the end that my 2" suspension and 2" body has, but drop bracket lifts don't really add any travel (unless you really want to get deep into $$ and add LT on top of it) they just lift the frame and suspension, which raises the center of gravity. Keeping the frame and suspension lower with the BL keeps the center of gravity lower. IMO when you are building a truck for serious wheeling you should lift it as little as possible and gain clerance anyway you can. Low and slow is the key, the guys with huge suspension lifts will be the first truck flopped on the trails I run.
Long story made short, don't listen to what all of the web wheelers tell you, talk to the guys who are out on the trails. They will tell you. There are a lot of guys who have logged more hours starring at a computer screen than they have working on there rig or wheeling it spreading oppinions about this or that of which they have no idea or experience.
Keys to a properly done body lift
1) always follow the as much as you need but as little as possible rule to determine your lift amount.
2) Be sure your factory body mount bushings are in good shape or replace them. If they are rotten then they will not hold up to the added stress of the BL spacers. You can buy a set of poly mounts for under $100
3) Buy a quality BL kit. The larger diameter the blocks the better, Grade 8 over sized hardware with large washers is a must.
4) Blocks should be made from UMHW, not aluminum and they should be solid with only one hole for the bolt.
