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xxxtreme22r's 1987 Pickup Build-Up Thread

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Old Jun 30, 2010 | 04:02 AM
  #21  
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not sure, I am gonna call bloomsburg Metal today to get a price on a 4-5 foot section. the rest will be easy, looks like 2 pieces of 1 ft X 3" X 1/4" plate and 2 pieces 3" x 3" x 3" x 1/4" angled. some grade 8 nuts, bolts, washers from TSC. Later on I will look at solutions to some shackle brackets for recovery points like Josh had.

Now if Bloomsburgh Metal can bend up some 1/4" x 3" plate I wont need those angled pieces and will eliminate some bolts.

Last edited by xxxtreme22r; Jun 30, 2010 at 04:04 AM.
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Old Jun 30, 2010 | 04:07 AM
  #22  
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yeh,,bloom metal is where i was thinking too.....don't know of anyone else
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Old Jun 30, 2010 | 04:50 AM
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How different is the on road driving upping to 31s? You didn't change gearing or anything right?
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Old Jun 30, 2010 | 05:03 AM
  #24  
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for me....really no change in power......if anything, a more stable ride...a more comfortable ride.....no horsepower to begin with, so no appreciable loss
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Old Jun 30, 2010 | 05:09 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by Chedo2.0
How different is the on road driving upping to 31s? You didn't change gearing or anything right?
almost no loss as far as I can tell. Maybe a little noticeable on hils, but it's not really a loss, just a change in power band because of the different rpm at highway speeds. Still has plenty of power above 3,000 RPM.
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Old Jun 30, 2010 | 05:38 AM
  #26  
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"for me....really no change in power......if anything, a more stable ride...a more comfortable ride.....no horsepower to begin with, so no appreciable loss"

"almost no loss as far as I can tell. Maybe a little noticeable on hils, but it's not really a loss, just a change in power band because of the different rpm at highway speeds. Still has plenty of power above 3,000 RPM. "

Thanks guys, I'm considering finding a set of used 31's but mostly my truck is a dd and I was concerned that I would loose a noticable amount
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Old Jul 1, 2010 | 02:54 AM
  #27  
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xxxtreme......see if this link works and if this is what we are talking about

http://us-dc1-order.store.yahoo.net/...onId=ysco.cart
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Old Jul 1, 2010 | 04:09 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by 92 TOY
xxxtreme......see if this link works and if this is what we are talking about

http://us-dc1-order.store.yahoo.net/...onId=ysco.cart
link doesn't work. takes me to empty shopping cart,

but this is what I am looking at on the site:

Steel Rectangular Tube 4 x 2 x 1/4 - - - - - - - - - - -5 foot X1 $60.45

Steel Hot Rolled Flat Bar 1/4 x 3 - - - - - - - - - - - - 1 foot X2 $10.56

Steel Equal Leg Angle 3 x 3 x 1/4 3 inches X2 precision cut - $14.88

Shipping - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - $22.60

Total - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - $108.49



Shipping isn't bad considering its about 52 lbs of steel.



I still have to figure out how I am gonna cap the ends of the tube though. I have an idea, bt I don't know if there is any suppliers around here for it.

Last edited by xxxtreme22r; Jul 1, 2010 at 04:12 AM.
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Old Jul 1, 2010 | 06:30 AM
  #29  
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dang...sorry about the link....but just for the steel bumper piece it was like $41 delivered

nice sig quote too by the way
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Old Jul 2, 2010 | 08:33 AM
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I used a 5'8" piece of 4X2X3/16 I got from the local distributor for $47.00.

For Mounts - I cut off a 14" piece and "ripped" it into 2 - 2x2 c-channels, cut a 4" piece off off the side of each channel for my end caps. Drilled holes in the c-channels to mount to factory bumper mount holes.

Eyelets - Bought these from Mountain Offroad Enterprises (M.O.R.E) for around $10.00-$15.00 each. Drilled holes in remaining 4'6" piece (bumper) in line with frame mounts to insert eylets and give the weld something to hold onto.

Had my dad weld on the end caps, channel mounts, and eyelets.

The rest of the cost was shackles and paint.

Can't remember where I got the shackles, but I think the eyelets and shackles are 3/4". Overkill, but stout.
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Old Jul 2, 2010 | 10:47 AM
  #31  
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thanks for the info slinkhound. sounds like you mounted to the frame like i thought you did and how I am gonna do it. Straight off the frame no "drop bracket"

Last edited by xxxtreme22r; Jul 2, 2010 at 10:49 AM.
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Old Jul 2, 2010 | 11:03 AM
  #32  
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ok I ordered my steel, all gonna be precut and ready for pickup on Tuesday for me.

I got

1 piece of 4" x 2" x 1/4" x 5 foot in length rectangle tubing $62.90

2 pieces of 3" x 1/4" plate x 1foot in length $12.59

2 pieces of 3" x 3" x 1/4" angle 3 inches in length $10
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Old Jul 5, 2010 | 03:48 PM
  #33  
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ok got some work done on one side. Pardon the shotty job, but considering what I have to work with, the PO (S) replaced the rear bumper with what looks to be 89-95 bumper brackets and because he could only get one bolt to line up they welded not only the back side but the bottom as well making an L-shaped weld. BIG PITA to get off with just a drill w/ grinding and/or cut-off wheel I am using.

this is how it looked before and after I got the one side off. Still have to do the other side, but since I ran out of cut-off wheels well, the other side is gonna have to wait.





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Old Jul 6, 2010 | 12:09 PM
  #34  
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Ok material Line up:



1 piece of 4" x 2" x 1/4" rectangle A500 steel tubing 5 foot in length 44.05 lbs $66.67

2 pieces 3" x 1/4" flat bar stock steel 1 foot in length 5.1 lbs $8.06

2 pieces of 3" x 3" x 1/4" A-36 Steel Angle 3 inches in length 2.45 lbs $8.48

total cost of steel $83.21 including 6% sales tax

3.05 lbs worth of grade 8 hardware $13.86 including

12 pieces 1/2" x 1.5" Hex Bolts
24 pieces 1/2" Flat Washers
12 pieces 1/2" Lock Washers
24 pieces 1/2" Hex Nuts

3 Cans cheapo Paint from Kmart (1 primer, 2 Flat Black) $4.24

Total Cost Of materials $101.31

I don't think I will have any structural problems with the tubing itself



I still have to eventually get some 3/4" Shackles and brackets.
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Old Jul 7, 2010 | 02:45 PM
  #35  
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More updates, finally got off my but and got something accomplished today since it's below 95 degrees. I hate woring in extreme heat.

Two holes drilled, 10 more to go. Had the two pieces c-clamped to my flatbed/workbench in order to make sure holes lined up perfectly.





The line up of step up in holes I drilled:



The broken one is what happens when you push too hard on a set of $10 Walmart special Drill bits



The drill I am using:



Mock-up bracket:







Two more holes will be drilled into the bracket that will line up and use the factory mounting holes in the frame

[IMG]

My 4 year old daughter had to give her approval before I moved onto the other side:

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Old Jul 7, 2010 | 03:30 PM
  #36  
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One bracket almost done. Mocked up to ensure fit. I will wait to drill the holes for the 4 X 2 tube when I get the other mount done.



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Old Jul 8, 2010 | 03:05 PM
  #37  
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casualty report:

2 3/32" drill bits, a tip off a 7/64", a 5/16" and a 1/2" drill bit, all toast.

Helpful hint when drilling through 1/4" plate, do not use cheap drill bits.

Pic or it didn't happen right?



Here is what I got to replace the 1/2". This better hold for the remaining few holes. At least it better for a $19 bit !!!!




Anyway, other side bracket is done.



And what it looks like without the tube on. Al tighten down ready to "hang" the tube to mark bracket locations prior to drilling the 4 remaining 1/2" holes.

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Old Jul 8, 2010 | 03:08 PM
  #38  
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that bottom picture looks like your toolbox puked
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Old Jul 8, 2010 | 03:10 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by 92 TOY
that bottom picture looks like your toolbox puked
you know me and tools.
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Old Jul 8, 2010 | 03:11 PM
  #40  
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study that pic and make sure you get that one that is wedged under the tire
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