I found a rarity. It is an unmolested 1989 Toyota XCab Truck 4X4. It spent some time on a farm here in East Texas and has sat for the last two years. The positive battery clamp was broken. So I jumped straight to the cable, connected it back to the battery before removing the jumper cables, and drove it home.

It need a fair amount of work to make her streetable again. Catalytic converter is plugged and drilled. Tune up. All fluids changed. Then, hopefully, the miss in the engine will be gone. She needs some body work.

1989 Toyota XCab 4X4. 22R-E, 5 spd.

Over time, it will become an overland truck so we can go camping in remote areas without the popup camper. First things first, make her run right, then tires, then inspection so she can be driven legally again!

 

Cool, where's the pics?

 

 

Kind of looks like it has been molested....


Good project base..

 

Yes. Good base. Working on the plans for mounting a tent platform.

My definition of unmolested comes from the car world. Unmolested means not modified, stock. You look for unmolested Mustangs and Integras, then you know they have not been driven as hard. This teuck has taken a few beatings. The tune up us on its way from RockAuto.com. Abount 1/3 the cost of the local parts store for the same brand parts.

 

Tune up parts came in. Beck-Arnley cap,rotor,and wires. Champion Platinum plugs. Even got new wipers!

Found some used 31.10.5.15s on Facebook today, so will be adding those. 3 for $100. Need them for inspection purposes and my budget is beyond minimal per month.

The kids (14 yr old girl and 12 yr old boy) Will be doing their first tuneup tomorrow!

 

Believe me I know what unmolested means in the car world. I bought my first car when I was 12, a 1964 Chevy II from the original owner with 80k on it. I have had probably 50+ vehicles over the years.

I guess instead of saying molested, I should have used the term abused...

 

Rode hard and put away wet! Haven't had anything this beat ina while.

 

Purrs like a kitten now. Old plugs were probably the original Denso plugs. Gap was three times what it should have been and the electrodes were worn in such a way that they were crooked. As soon as I take a picture, I'll post it.

 

Sometimes you just want to beat someone. It runs great, but the idle was like 2k rpm. So I start reading. I know now how to check the CEL. I connected TE1 to E1 and bumpkus. This pisses me off for some time.

Then I start looking under the hood because I thought maybe there was an issue with the connector itself. That's when I see this.





Cut power wire.

Then, I see a cut brown wire. The two white/red wires look like they belong. I start tracing. The white/red and brown go to the diagnostic port. The other white/red go ?. But all of the other sensors that the white/red connect to are all connected to the ECU.

That brown wire is the ground for the diagnostic connection. Grounded the TE1 to the battery and I need an O2 sensor and a new TPS. That explains the high idle.

 

Soldering the white/red tomorrow and putting brown back to ground.

Got some used BFGoodrich tired today. Drive the truck down about a mile to the local tire shop and had them mounted and balanced. Have to get a battery, push starting sucks.

Steering was loose, so while it was up in the air I had the boy turn the steering wheel back and forth. I need new Pittman and idler arms. Should probably go ahead and replace the tire rod ends as well. Well have to look at the drag link as well. But the TPS first when next month's paycheck hits. At some point, I will have to transfer the title and pay the taxes as well.

 

old genious's wiring work drove me insane on my 81. I was attempting to clean up the wiring under the dash and found one 4' section with 3 splices in it...needless to say I am not doing a hackjob on my 4Runner.

Looks like you are making some headway on it. Not sure why you would need a new pitman arm, it should just be bolted straight to the steering rod, maybe you just need the TRE that is mounted on the pitman arm.
There is some adjustment in the steering box that can help too:

new joints etc will probably do wonders for the truck. Might check the front bearings too.

 

Both the pitman arm and idler arm ball joints are shot.

 

Idler arm





Pitman arm





Oil Leak





Drivers side cv axle





Radiator drain plug

 

Repair list:

Steering
Shocks
Axles
Flush radiator
Valve cover gasket
All fluids changed

Then she will be ready to run down the road.

Then, some time down the road. My monthly budget is small

Spool in rear diff
Auto locker in front
Armor
Double transfer case
33's

 

Very nice!! When I got my 88 it had no windshield no box.. Some horrible flat bed.. But mechanically sound.. Paid 500 bucks from the neighbor and the clutch was destroyed from being ridden

 

$850. Clutch sends sound, though the slave cylinder might need rebuilding.

 

This is the original spark plug I took out of the truck. I think it is factory original. Never seen one that worn.

 

Pittman arm and idler arm replaced. Pittman arm from I'Reillya was 1/8 inch long and would not fit. Ended up at AutoZone.

Replaced the TPS sensor as well. Have to adjust it though as it is now surging.


Told y'all it would be slow. That was my budget for the month. And I still have to transfer the title!

 

Well. I've driven it for a month. Have a new list of repairs.

Shifter bushings. Won't stay in 5th gear.
Bought a replacement coolant hose (u shaped) that connects the manifold to the block. Glad I didn't cut it. This is the problem.
Coolant connection on the underside of the intake manifold. Seems to have rushed just a bit.