ToyoTech559's 1988 4Runner Build-Up Thread
08-04-2013, 08:56 AM
#1121
been meaning to pickup a hi lift for the longest time but of all the years and times i have been on the trail. i never needed to use one
anyways i was on CL looking for some other stuff and came across and brand new 48" Hi Lift Xtreme. He also had a ARB recover kit minus a strap extension which i dont really care for. came with one tree strap and a 24k lb snatch strap. one d ring and one warn hook. two HB straps i think and the sweet bag.
anyways i was on CL looking for some other stuff and came across and brand new 48" Hi Lift Xtreme. He also had a ARB recover kit minus a strap extension which i dont really care for. came with one tree strap and a 24k lb snatch strap. one d ring and one warn hook. two HB straps i think and the sweet bag.
08-04-2013, 09:06 AM
#1122
a little update on my new to me tundra sitting right at 97174 miles
getting it ready to go another easy 100k i hope lol
just did yesterday (indicates mileage they are due at)
Oil Change (5k)
Spark plugs (30k)
Timing Belt (90k)
Water Pump (as needed) mine just started signs of leaking
T-Stat (as needed) mine look good but replaced and keeping old as spare
Drive Belt (as needed) mine was all cracked up
Front Diff Fluid Exchange (30k)
Transfer Case Fluid Exchange (30k)
Rear LSD Diff Fluid Exchange (30K) added BG LSD additive
Greased Drive Lines Front and Rear (30k?)
BG 44k (30k?) fuel additive. had a bottle figure i use it.
still need to do
Rack and Pinon (leaking)
PS fluid (as needed)
Brake Fluid Exchange (2 years)
Radiator Cap (as needed) looks good but figure i change it and keep old for spare
Clean and Adjust Rear Brakes (as needed)
just about matches my main tool box haha
bare fits garage door. i think i have a weak door spring. anyone know anything about garage doors lol
getting it ready to go another easy 100k i hope lol
just did yesterday (indicates mileage they are due at)
Oil Change (5k)
Spark plugs (30k)
Timing Belt (90k)
Water Pump (as needed) mine just started signs of leaking
T-Stat (as needed) mine look good but replaced and keeping old as spare
Drive Belt (as needed) mine was all cracked up
Front Diff Fluid Exchange (30k)
Transfer Case Fluid Exchange (30k)
Rear LSD Diff Fluid Exchange (30K) added BG LSD additive
Greased Drive Lines Front and Rear (30k?)
BG 44k (30k?) fuel additive. had a bottle figure i use it.
still need to do
Rack and Pinon (leaking)
PS fluid (as needed)
Brake Fluid Exchange (2 years)
Radiator Cap (as needed) looks good but figure i change it and keep old for spare
Clean and Adjust Rear Brakes (as needed)
just about matches my main tool box haha
bare fits garage door. i think i have a weak door spring. anyone know anything about garage doors lol
Last edited by ToyoTech559; 08-04-2013 at 09:07 AM.
08-04-2013, 09:23 AM
#1123
Great find on the kit, great work on the Rig. .... And GREAT GATSBY that is close! Lol.... Have you thought about just changing the door up completely to a belt driven guide style sectional door? Obviously the biggest cost would be the door but you could probably find a great deal with all this competition lately... Anyway, that would be my guess is that you need new springs or to adjust them if possible? Sounds like a trip to Home Depots in your near future? Hahahaha.
Again, congratulations man, that is a beautiful truck!
Again, congratulations man, that is a beautiful truck!
08-04-2013, 09:35 AM
#1125
thanks. its just one side of the garage door hangs lower, that is why i suspect the spring. i really would like a new garage door style, like the ones you have. i sure this will give me a ton of clearance and im still surprised yours fix in your garage lol
08-04-2013, 10:38 AM
#1127
Nice! Like the wheels btw!
And definitely, you can set up the belt drive door kit so that the door literally wind up above the upper edge of the door jamb. I have a couple inches of space until I reach the Thule flush mount roof rack bars... I'm actually going to adjust the door to not go up so high because the the furthest back tab on the track that guides and decides the distance that the door travels is hitting the body of the opener motor. I did that for extra clearance, and before I could fit in with the roof rack on when it was still IFS. I wish I could leave it on but then again I don't need it 95 percent of the time or more... so why carry around even more wind resistance and weight? Plus I will have the lights on there, possibly the high lift as well but I doubt it... Either way it's going to be even heavier, so I like the fact that it easily removable by sliding it out the back through the T tracks. Far as other options, I love the idea of the carrier and swing out on the back like Richard and 4 by 4 labs and ARB have... But I guess it's just a little different for me having my motor... Not to mention the weight of everything else that gets added back there to the very rear most portion.
Anyway, SICK! STOKED FOR YA, Toyo!
And definitely, you can set up the belt drive door kit so that the door literally wind up above the upper edge of the door jamb. I have a couple inches of space until I reach the Thule flush mount roof rack bars... I'm actually going to adjust the door to not go up so high because the the furthest back tab on the track that guides and decides the distance that the door travels is hitting the body of the opener motor. I did that for extra clearance, and before I could fit in with the roof rack on when it was still IFS. I wish I could leave it on but then again I don't need it 95 percent of the time or more... so why carry around even more wind resistance and weight? Plus I will have the lights on there, possibly the high lift as well but I doubt it... Either way it's going to be even heavier, so I like the fact that it easily removable by sliding it out the back through the T tracks. Far as other options, I love the idea of the carrier and swing out on the back like Richard and 4 by 4 labs and ARB have... But I guess it's just a little different for me having my motor... Not to mention the weight of everything else that gets added back there to the very rear most portion.
Anyway, SICK! STOKED FOR YA, Toyo!
08-05-2013, 10:37 PM
#1128
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Came across this vid tonight and thought of you man... granted, this thing is a formula one of these little guys but... well anyway just enjoy the vid.
*insert maniacal laughter*
*insert maniacal laughter*
08-06-2013, 07:05 PM
#1130
Thanks for the video. I watched that a day before you posted it. Only if I can found a used 2012 900xp with eps
I was able to adjust my garage to open up more so its much better now
I was able to adjust my garage to open up more so its much better now
Last edited by ToyoTech559; 08-06-2013 at 07:06 PM.
08-11-2013, 10:28 AM
#1131
so my last trip two months ago including some night wheeling. as i was coming up on a hill and on the way back down at the top. i couldnt see much and went faster than i should have. i ended up nailing a huge 10 inch in diameter tree root that was exposed with my left front tire. i came to an instant stop and my buddy behind me said it look like my rear end was gonna jump up, shows how hard i hit it. anyways i kept driving and noticed my steering was messed up. stopped on a flat spot on the trail. with steering wheel straight, my left front tire was toed out (neg toe)
thanks to the blazeland LT kit, its super easier to adjust my toe, i adjusted it back in and couldnt find anything bent. the only weak link i hear about the IFS is the idler arm. so i figure heck i never replaced anything on my steering before and its all original so i ordered all new tie rod ends and lower ball joints. instead of going back to the dinky factory idler arm which is like $200 plus from toyota. i figure heck a little more i get the king kong of idler arm.
after installing everything and doing an alignment, it still didnt seem right. if you look at the pictures. you can see the relay rod (middle long bar) that one side is higher. the relay rod is connect to the idler arm and pitman arm. it funny that the pitman arm is what actually bent and not the famous weak stock idler arm. buddy gave me his old stock pitman arm but bushing is torn. not sure if i can replace the bushing or i might have to find another pitman arm.
left side is higher than right
didnt think it was possible but this pitman arm is bent down a little when i put another one next to it
new tie rod ends and lower ball joints. can also see Chef's mega upper ball joints
had to drill out a 5/8 holes in the relay rod to install this monster of a idler arm
had to cut my arb bumper a little to clear the ilder arm "4th" mounting spot
having some fun showing up some FJ's at work
thanks to the blazeland LT kit, its super easier to adjust my toe, i adjusted it back in and couldnt find anything bent. the only weak link i hear about the IFS is the idler arm. so i figure heck i never replaced anything on my steering before and its all original so i ordered all new tie rod ends and lower ball joints. instead of going back to the dinky factory idler arm which is like $200 plus from toyota. i figure heck a little more i get the king kong of idler arm.
after installing everything and doing an alignment, it still didnt seem right. if you look at the pictures. you can see the relay rod (middle long bar) that one side is higher. the relay rod is connect to the idler arm and pitman arm. it funny that the pitman arm is what actually bent and not the famous weak stock idler arm. buddy gave me his old stock pitman arm but bushing is torn. not sure if i can replace the bushing or i might have to find another pitman arm.
left side is higher than right
didnt think it was possible but this pitman arm is bent down a little when i put another one next to it
new tie rod ends and lower ball joints. can also see Chef's mega upper ball joints
had to drill out a 5/8 holes in the relay rod to install this monster of a idler arm
had to cut my arb bumper a little to clear the ilder arm "4th" mounting spot
having some fun showing up some FJ's at work
08-11-2013, 10:39 AM
#1132
My buddy at California Crawler Parts threw a customer appreciation run with free food and raffles. including some wheeling too. my cowork with the Deuce and a half came out as well.
getting ready
getting ready
08-11-2013, 10:50 AM
#1135
08-11-2013, 10:51 AM
#1136
if the bushing is in good shape and not bent. pm price plus shipping. im also looking for the big nut for it as well for a friend.
08-11-2013, 10:57 AM
#1138
I will take a look today. I'm not positive that came back with me... But I think it did.....hmmm. I'm also not exactly sure what Richard did but I'm assuming with his high steer that he did get the Pitman replaced. However I'm not positive it's in that box so I will have to look. Not sure on the bushings either.
08-11-2013, 10:57 AM
#1139
