Teuf's SAS thread 88 toyota PU 22r-e
#324
Registered User
iTrader: (5)
If you are talking to me .... On the front I used a 2000 Tacoma u joint section(most angle-ability I've seen) and flange at the tcase/tcase end... had to use a Tacoma transfer case pinyon flange because it doesn't fit any of the options in the triple drilled. The rear actually wound up with a carden due to the dual cases shortening up the rear shaft quite a bit and increasing the angle as well. wedge in the rear packs for pinion angle and 84-85 Carden..... Super Duty u joints and it seems to be working pretty well.
Last edited by ChefYota4x4; 08-11-2013 at 01:18 PM.
#325
Registered User
Thread Starter
Sorry Mark, I should have stated your name. In your rear drive shaft seeing as a CV was used you clocked the diff up? To point to the output flange. I know each lift is different, but I am asking as I have a little vibe at about 15-25mph.i am trying to correct that. All higher speeds its smooth.
#327
Registered User
iTrader: (5)
Okay, are you trying to confuse me? Lol... So the angle of your truck is the actual angle of your shaft?
Yes, the rear is clocked to make for a happy street shop to the diff. This can also change where you hang things so just double triple quadruple check everything as you go.....
Yes, the rear is clocked to make for a happy street shop to the diff. This can also change where you hang things so just double triple quadruple check everything as you go.....
#328
Registered User
Thread Starter
Ha, meant a different photo angle. Ok my rear springs are 3 ". In anticipating the additional rear lift I would need I added 3 flat springs, 1in block and fabricated 6 in. Shackles. That got me lift I needed to match the front. I guess now I have to correct the pinion angle.
#336
Registered User
Thread Starter
Been driving around and for the most part its heaven. Except an itsy bitsy vibe between 20-30. And an off the gas / deceleration grumble / noise. From higher speeds. I have checked everything that could be loose. Anyway I started work on the front drive shaft, disassembling the cv per 4x4Wires instructions, yes I did manage to lose a needle bearing. Thats ok I need to replace 1 spicer U joint anyway. I will grind later and post pics. Are the CV U joints the same as the single joint ends?
[IMG]http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/teufelshunde/[IMG]http://i561.photobucket.
C clips out
getting there
Half done
Dang are they all there.
Other half.
Ok that dust shield must come off.
Ok next is to grind away, or I could bring it to school and have them machine it, that would be cool..
Nah that would take to long, I''l grind it.
[IMG]http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss55/teufelshunde/[IMG]http://i561.photobucket.
C clips out
getting there
Half done
Dang are they all there.
Other half.
Ok that dust shield must come off.
Ok next is to grind away, or I could bring it to school and have them machine it, that would be cool..
Nah that would take to long, I''l grind it.
#337
Registered User
Thread Starter
Ground down. The inserted socket is to keep the needle bearings intact. They had came out, was a pain to reinsert.
Last edited by Teuf; 09-07-2013 at 06:28 PM.
#338
Contributing Member
iTrader: (3)
I gave up on that project. Did all the grinding and fought all the needle bearings and ended with a lot of nothing.
Got a long spline kit and a t-100 front single cardon shaft. Way easier.
Got a long spline kit and a t-100 front single cardon shaft. Way easier.
#339
Registered User
Thread Starter
Dang, well I am working on the cheap. this is all I can do. I'll run it until I can afford trail gear drive shaft. Or something equivalent.
You have a pic of your setup?
You have a pic of your setup?