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Swimmerboy2112's 1986 4Runner Build-Up Thread

Old Feb 12, 2012 | 05:12 AM
  #3381  
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From: Walnutport, PA
Originally Posted by irab88
the only thing we'd really need to buy would be an engine hoist. any smaller specialty tool we could rent from the parts store

brian, i'm definitely in if we do it over a weekend
I'm sure we could rent an engine hoist from somewhere down there. And if not, I will be more than willing to pick one up.

Glad to hear you're in Ian. I'm going to get in touch with RB and see what works with him then hammer out the details.
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Old Feb 12, 2012 | 09:14 AM
  #3382  
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WOOT, WOOT! Man, wish I could pop on by, ... dang lack of teleporters!!!!!!

Anyway, yeah, RENT, Brian.... Considering you have help, 30$ a day(???? no idea) rather than buying a decent one for, well, a bit more than that? I'd rent. Look for an A-1 Rentals type place out there.... Even U-haul used to have them...good ones!. Just poke around, you'll find one... you always FIND stuff, somehow! hahaha.
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Old Feb 12, 2012 | 12:26 PM
  #3383  
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From: Walnutport, PA
Originally Posted by ChefYota4x4
WOOT, WOOT! Man, wish I could pop on by, ... dang lack of teleporters!!!!!!

Anyway, yeah, RENT, Brian.... Considering you have help, 30$ a day(???? no idea) rather than buying a decent one for, well, a bit more than that? I'd rent. Look for an A-1 Rentals type place out there.... Even U-haul used to have them...good ones!. Just poke around, you'll find one... you always FIND stuff, somehow! hahaha.
Yeah I really think renting is the way to go!
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Old Feb 12, 2012 | 03:18 PM
  #3384  
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Alright so it's starting to look like this engine swap is going to be a go.

What all should I upgrade while I have the engine out? I'm thinking clutch. Which clutch?? I'm also going to put my headers on.

Anything else I should do??
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Old Feb 12, 2012 | 03:46 PM
  #3385  
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-clutch (not ceramic, unless you like grabby clutches and hard starts)
-headers (really, you can do at any time, but that would be ideal, yes)
-radiator (you already got it)
-alternator (gm swap is easy. don't need all the wiring i did. plug-and-play)

that's all i can think of for now
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Old Feb 12, 2012 | 04:25 PM
  #3386  
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From: Walnutport, PA
Originally Posted by irab88
-clutch (not ceramic, unless you like grabby clutches and hard starts)
-headers (really, you can do at any time, but that would be ideal, yes)
-radiator (you already got it)
-alternator (gm swap is easy. don't need all the wiring i did. plug-and-play)

that's all i can think of for now
What do you mean by hard starts??

Yeah i'm gonna do the headers now, it will be much easier.

Yep got the rad!

Which alt. did you go with?
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Old Feb 12, 2012 | 06:39 PM
  #3387  
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Originally Posted by Swimmerboy2112
What do you mean by hard starts??
like when you let the clutch out too quick
Yeah i'm gonna do the headers now, it will be much easier.

Yep got the rad!

Which alt. did you go with?
don't laugh: ebay alt, cs-130, 12 o'clock housing, 140 amps. still running strong
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Old Feb 12, 2012 | 06:43 PM
  #3388  
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Originally Posted by irab88
Would you recommend against buying the clutch you did (the 1200lb correct?)?

and do you mean this alt?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/GM-140-amp-1...#ht_1023wt_883

How long have you had it for?
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Old Feb 12, 2012 | 06:52 PM
  #3389  
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1200-1600, any will work. the pedal feels fine at 1600 (what i have). i wouldn't recommend against it, but i would have ordered the non-ceramic type had i known. i'll have to see how it handles off-road, though.

that's the one. almost a year now (20,000 miles). and that's with upgraded headlights and marker lights, hella 500's, e-fan, air-controlled shocks (compressor), and all the other small things i've added.

Last edited by irab88; Feb 12, 2012 at 06:53 PM.
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Old Feb 12, 2012 | 06:57 PM
  #3390  
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Originally Posted by irab88
1200-1600, any will work. the pedal feels fine at 1600 (what i have). i wouldn't recommend against it, but i would have ordered the non-ceramic type had i known. i'll have to see how it handles off-road, though.

that's the one. almost a year now (20,000 miles). and that's with upgraded headlights and marker lights, hella 500's, e-fan, air-controlled shocks (compressor), and all the other small things i've added.
Alright i'll probably order both.

What did you do about your flywheel?
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Old Feb 12, 2012 | 07:30 PM
  #3391  
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machine shop/performance auto shop. should be fairly cheap. just tell them you need it resurfaced. takes about a day. you can also buy a flywheel new from marlin, which isn't too terribly expensive
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Old Feb 12, 2012 | 08:32 PM
  #3392  
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From: Lake Havasu, AZ
Always think of the lil things too......

PCV

Fuel Filter

Rear Main Seal/Front main seal(not saying you need em.... but pretty cheap insurance if you're not sure? lol)

Clutch Slave or Master(while doing a full kit? Just sayin)

Thermostat

Some extra Vacuum line from Parts store in case any of it looks orig./questionable/brittle

Clean out the IACV while you have it out/Or re-use yours if YOU'RE SURE it works and not sure if the donor motors does?

Brake Fluid for clutch Hydrolic Parts IF you do them while you're at it.

Oil, Oil Filter

Coolant

............Just a few things to think about.

Have fun, guys. I'm excited for ya, Brian!
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Old Feb 12, 2012 | 08:35 PM
  #3393  
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PS> Check to see if you're input shaft seal is leaking from the trans while you're in there.... DO NOT want to bother with it later, eh? lol. It's a REALLY easy job and 15$ or so, OEM. And it WILL jack up a new clutch as easily as an old one! lol. Only thing is, ... you'd have to change the fluid out/drain it, if you do that job.

Just check, ya know? You'll know if it's leaking, it's a lil dirty trail. If not, GREAT!
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Old Feb 13, 2012 | 07:23 AM
  #3394  
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From: Bloodymore
Just to give you an idea on price. A friend of mine had his accord engine replaced for $2k and the replacement engine had 60k on it.
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Old Feb 13, 2012 | 07:27 AM
  #3395  
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so now that you're here, would you be in for brian's engine swap?
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Old Feb 13, 2012 | 09:19 AM
  #3396  
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I spoke with him last night about it. I will certainly help, but there are a few details to iron out.
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Old Feb 13, 2012 | 09:27 AM
  #3397  
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'k. whatever works. keep us posted (you have my number)
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Old Feb 13, 2012 | 01:05 PM
  #3398  
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From: Walnutport, PA
Originally Posted by irab88
machine shop/performance auto shop. should be fairly cheap. just tell them you need it resurfaced. takes about a day. you can also buy a flywheel new from marlin, which isn't too terribly expensive
Alright, appreciate it. When I had the clutch in my Tiburon replaced I bought a new flywheel.

Originally Posted by ChefYota4x4
Always think of the lil things too......

PCV

Fuel Filter

Rear Main Seal/Front main seal(not saying you need em.... but pretty cheap insurance if you're not sure? lol)

Clutch Slave or Master(while doing a full kit? Just sayin)

Thermostat

Some extra Vacuum line from Parts store in case any of it looks orig./questionable/brittle

Clean out the IACV while you have it out/Or re-use yours if YOU'RE SURE it works and not sure if the donor motors does?

Brake Fluid for clutch Hydrolic Parts IF you do them while you're at it.

Oil, Oil Filter

Coolant

............Just a few things to think about.

Have fun, guys. I'm excited for ya, Brian!
I will probably pick up the PCV.

I have a fuel filter.

The main seals better be good!!

The master and slave cylinders are a good idea.

I'll throw in the dual stage t-stat. Too bad it's something like $43.

I know my hoses are pretty much garbage (dry and crumbly) hopefully the new motor has good ones. Same with the IACV, mine works fine. I will be able to tell more when I pick up the motor.

What brake fluid? DOT3 or DOT4??

Oil and filter yeah! lol

Would you recommend pink Toyota coolant?

Originally Posted by ChefYota4x4
PS> Check to see if you're input shaft seal is leaking from the trans while you're in there.... DO NOT want to bother with it later, eh? lol. It's a REALLY easy job and 15$ or so, OEM. And it WILL jack up a new clutch as easily as an old one! lol. Only thing is, ... you'd have to change the fluid out/drain it, if you do that job.

Just check, ya know? You'll know if it's leaking, it's a lil dirty trail. If not, GREAT!
Honestly, that's a real good idea. I've been meaning to change my trans fluid and this gives me a good excuse

Originally Posted by RBX
Just to give you an idea on price. A friend of mine had his accord engine replaced for $2k and the replacement engine had 60k on it.
2K!? That include the price of the engine?
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Old Feb 13, 2012 | 01:08 PM
  #3399  
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From: Bloodymore
Yes 2k included the engine
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Old Feb 13, 2012 | 01:11 PM
  #3400  
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Originally Posted by RBX
Yes 2k included the engine
That isn't so terrible then, still more than I wanna pay lol

Hey RB, you have a small Lincoln welder right? I think i might bring my sliders down in case we have time to get em welded on. What kind of welder is it? I'll snag you some consumables (tips, gas diffusers, nozzles, liners, wire) from work as a thanks! And if we don't have time then no sweat.
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