Sky's 1989 3.4 Build
02-20-2013, 06:59 PM
#42
3.4 swap question
Have a question about the 3.4 swap, I have a friend with a 89 4runner that wants to do a that swap. What do you do about the cluster and such? do you need to use the cluster that would be in the vehicle? or is there any type of conversion to use the old cluster?
02-20-2013, 07:14 PM
#43
Someone will have better specifics I imagine. But from what I remeber the majority or all of the guage to sensor wires connect thru the junction block(s) in the passenger kick panel. eg, you should be able to repin anything you need there and not have to touch the dash harness wires.
02-20-2013, 08:36 PM
#45
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Usually the only thing you have to get into the instrument cluster for is to make the factory tachometer work. If the recipient vehicle is a 3.0 with a factory tach, then you solder in a 10k ohm resistor(or whatever the measure is...I'm electrical retarded) in a certain spot and it should work properly. If the recipient vehicle is a 22R or RE, I have no idea. Place to find info on the 3.4 swap is here: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f160/
02-26-2013, 08:30 PM
#49
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Well my truck is sitting in the body shop and wont be out for a couple weeks they say. Great. Anyone know of a 3.4 supercharger for sale?
What paint have you used on sliders and tube bumpers that has held up and not chipped?
What paint have you used on sliders and tube bumpers that has held up and not chipped?
Last edited by Skydog1; 02-26-2013 at 08:34 PM.
02-26-2013, 09:01 PM
#50
Flat anycolor and brand is easy todo at home.
If you want gloss get them to do a couple of final coats with a clear-color mixture and you'll have a little extra to sand and buff on.
Rubberized bedliners are self repairing, or semi self repairing just hit it with the heat gun.
02-26-2013, 10:55 PM
#52
That'll work, readily repairable is better than super durable in my book.
Chefyota just did his with something a little more pricey, think he used an electric power sprayer but might have been a brush on. Not sure of his brand. It's covered in his thread about two pages back before the brake stuff.
Chefyota just did his with something a little more pricey, think he used an electric power sprayer but might have been a brush on. Not sure of his brand. It's covered in his thread about two pages back before the brake stuff.
02-28-2013, 09:44 AM
#55
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I figured I would get started on this. Sometime ago someone had spray painted these wheels and they did a pretty ˟˟˟˟ty job. Im bringing back the shine.
Before and after
Using steel wool and carb cleaner to get the paint off, works great
Before and after
Using steel wool and carb cleaner to get the paint off, works great
Last edited by Skydog1; 02-28-2013 at 05:54 PM.
03-16-2013, 05:23 PM
#56
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Ended up getting a job at the shop were insurance was fixing the body damage. I was getting paid to fix my own truck, haha.
And I have horrible luck with starters im on #3 and the thing is still sticking at times what could possibly be the problem? With my 4runner I had the same problem of a sticky starter. Please help haha
I love posing for pictures
And I have horrible luck with starters im on #3 and the thing is still sticking at times what could possibly be the problem? With my 4runner I had the same problem of a sticky starter. Please help haha
I love posing for pictures
Last edited by Skydog1; 03-16-2013 at 06:31 PM.
03-19-2013, 07:35 AM
#57
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How come you didn't like your IROKs? just curious. also what size iroks were you running? I'm in the process of doing an SAS on mine. 4" springs 3" body. debating on what tire to go with
03-20-2013, 10:15 PM
#58
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Iroks were good offroad, no doubt. But they were easy to puncture, all 4 of my iroks had one or 2 plugs in them and leaked air. If I were you I wouldnt do a 3 inch body lift, you will eventually find yourself taking it out. My buddy has the 36" Iroks on his sas 3rd gen with a 4" lift and they do not rub. He has no body lift.
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