Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

I was done for the day. I was soaked with sweat, to hot to work on the truck now. You didnt pull me away, actually getting ready for work here in a few. I think you will like the shifter boot. Just get the smaller wire.

rustED

iTrader: (2)

Thanks again for the info Terry!

Yesterday I swapped out the clutch (soft) clutch line for another one, and re-bled the clutch, I think I fixed the leak. But I notice a little squeal when my rigs is running parked in neuatral, I'm pretty sure its the (brand new) throwout bearing that is making the noise, because as soon as I start to press in the clutch a little bit it goes away. I tried adjusting the clutch pedal, that didn't help any. So I ended up taking out the push rod on the slave cylinder (that I had lengthened 5/8 of an inch) and shortened it about a 1/8th". Now it wont disengage the clutch enough to go into gear and still makes the noise. Is it normal for a new throwout bearing to make noise until it breaks in? Anybody got any ideas?

I think I'm going to take the slave cylinder pushrod out and build one that is adjustable, so at least I can fine tune the length without cutting or welding it, lol. NWOR is closed today, I'll probably give them a call tomorrow.

oneIwilly

He Ed,if that headliner is falling down I got an old trick for fixing it,without takeing it out.If you are interested.

3YLSYKR

I would like to hear about this headliner fix as well please.

rustED

iTrader: (2)

Hey Brian. My headliner is actually in real good shape, my cellphone just takes crappy pics, lol, but I'm still interested in the headliner fix, for future reference, or to help out other members, thanks!

oneIwilly

I used to work at a shady car dealership.This is a ok way to do a temp headliner fix.The more time you take to do this the better it will look.If your head liner is in good shape,but falling down heres what you do.Go find yourself a can of spray on contact cement with a STRAW (like the red one you get with a can of wd-40)Then you find places,like around the dome light or visor mounts,that you can get the straw into without punching a hole in the head liner.You will read on the can to spray both surfaces and to wait 10 or more minutes before trying to mate the surfaces.This is extremely important.Wait longer like 20 min.The reason why is if you try to put the head liner up too soon, the glue will press through the mesh of the fabric,and look like crap.Take your time pressing the material up,so you dont get a bunch of wrinkles.Put it back together.

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

Thats a good tip oneIwilly...Thanks

On the throwout bearing, did you put a thin coat of oil on the inside of it before putting it on? I forgot to do that and in the winter I get a little noise from it.

rustED

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for the headliner tip Brian, good info!

Hi Terry. No I didn't think to put anything on the inside of the bearing. I wonder if I could get a can of penetrating oil with a straw on the end and get it back through where the clutch fork opening in the bellhousing is and spray some in that way?...

Red Wagon

I scored a second hand Lincoln Mig Pak 15 for $200! Keep an eye on craigslist or something for awhile and eventually you'll score a deal.

My problem now is that I have no idea how to weld. I have sliders and a bumper on the way from Addicted Offroad so I'll be learning in a couple weeks. I doubt my welds will look as good as yours for a while yet!

rustED

iTrader: (2)

Nice score the Lincoln! At least your starting out with a good machine, (I should say a more capable machine, my 110v Lincoln wirefeed is good, I just tend to push its limits welding 1/4" thick steel). That's cool that you getting into welding, it will make working on your project so much easier, you'll start tackling stuff that you wouldn't have considered doing before! I say just get in a little practice before doing your rock sliders, there are also a lot of videos out there that can help you. I'd deffinately recommend investing in an autoshade welding helmet, if you don't already have one and can afford one. I just bought a cheap one for around $60 and it sure beats having to flip up and down the the front shade to see what your doing, lol. Good luck on your build, I'll have to check it out when you get your sliders!

Red Wagon

Thanks. I got an autoshade Lincoln Electric helmet on sale for %50 off at Canadian Tire. I have to get a couple of cheap parts for the welder like a butterfly nut but other than that it's not even scratched.

I'm really looking forward to learning. I have to build a roof rack as well.

rustED

iTrader: (2)

Nice, you'll love the auto shade helmet, Its hard to go back once you get used to using them, lol. The roof rack would be cool, I built one out of 1" square tubing for my 83' Blazer I used to have, it turned out pretty good, I'm contemplating building one for my runner, but I have a camping/off-road trailer I started that's sitting on the back burner that I need to finish if I'm ever going to use it this summer, lol.



crappy pics of the blazer, but those are the only ones I have of it with the roof rack on it. Anyway I look forward to seeing what you build with your welding gear!

rustED

iTrader: (2)

I decided to redo the push rod on the slave cylinder and make it adjustable. The pic on the left is the original one that I lengthened, and the one on the right is the new one. I just made it out of two 5/16" bolts that I cut to length and threaded into a coupler nut, one end I threaded in a few threads and welded it, the other end is adjustable, I'm just using a regular nut to tighten against the coupler nut to lock it in place. It works real good, now I have some adjustment at the clutch pedal and at the slave cylinder. (It didn't cure my throwout bearing squeel tho).


^^^ I put the bolt in the chuck of the drill and used it and the grinder at the same time, made quick work of rounding off the bolts


^^^ here's the finished adjustable rod.

Red Wagon

Thanks Ed. It will be a bit over two weeks. I fly back to work in the morning and will be gone two weeks. On the bright side my bumper, winch and sliders should be here by then.

rustED

iTrader: (2)

Today I just cleaned up the interior some, vacuumed it out and put misc parts that I had been storing in it away. Then I decided to do a little wiring. I did the Turbo blinker mod on my 83' after installing LED blinkers, and since I have the same problem on the runner, I figured why not. First I got the flasher relay out of my 85' parts truck, I figured on modifying it and keeping the original one on my runner as a spare, that's when I found out they were a little different.


The green one is off the 85', and the black flasher is off the 86'. I decided to go ahead and mod the one off the 85' since the terminal block and everything else looked identical on both trucks, I figured they were interchangeable. I remember seeing a link on another forum on how to cut and remove the resistor, here is a pic of which one to remove.



I'm aware that they make replacement electronic flasher specifically for LED turn signals, or that you can add a specific ohm resistor to it to correct the problem, but I'm cheap, and like to modify stuff, lol. Anyway I modified the 85' flasher and tried it on the runner and it worked, no more Turbo blink. So now for the next step. The front turn signal lights mounted on my Smittybuilt bumper are really small, dim, and nearly impossible to see from the side, so I decided to add a turn signal light to the factory side marker light. I had some LED lights that I got from Walmart, I was using them for side marker lights on my 83' front fenders because they're nice and small. I decided to reuse those and mount them in the side marker housing. Here is the pics.


^^^ These are the front turn signals that are on my front bumper, Ill probably replace them with some LEDs eventually.





I just used my dremel to cut the square hole, and used some black silicone to secure and seal it. Ill try to post some pics at night and see how bright they are.

rustED

iTrader: (2)

I got the clutch adjusted and fixed, no more squeeling from the throwout bearing, WOOHOO!!!! I called NWOR and they recommended there's be at least 40 thousandths of play on the clutch pedal. Well when I first started messing with the clutch pedal adjuster (before I made the slave cylinder pushrod adjustable) I had adjusted it all the way out as far as it would go, then when I made the slave cylinder pushrod adjustable, the pedal didn't have any play left in it, so I think it was putting just enough pressure on the throwout bearing to make it squeel. Anyway, glad to have that fixed!

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

Great job on getting your lights switched over and getting the brakes working. Glad you poste the resistor to remove so when I get to that stage will know which one it is. Thanks

rustED

iTrader: (2)

Thanks Terry, I'm really glad to have the clutch working and to eliminate the squeeling noise, I was afraid that there as something wrong with the new throwout bearing I'd gotten and I was going to have to replace it, I'm glad that's not the case!!! On the flasher mod (just incase you don't already know) the only draw back to this mod is that if your bulb burns out you wont know because by removing the resistor your eliminating the low voltage circuit, but I plan on replacing my rear bulbs with LED's anyway, and they last a lot longer than the factory bulbs, so I'm not to worried about the trade off.

yota864x4

awesome build! i just spent the last few hours reading it lol

rustED

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for the compliment, that's a lot of reading all at once, lol. I'm just waiting to get some money so I can get this thing liscenced and then I can finally start putting some miles on it! (Still needs front driveline finished and front shockhoops and shocks)