Ok. Got all bearings, seals, u-joints, rotors, drums and pads in and tires back on. Everything is a slow process for me. I have to stop, search the threads, watch the video, and usually buy the correct tool to replace the one I THOUGHT would work. Now removing stuff from engine so I can get it out. As you can see, she's coated with oil. Front main leaked LONG time before I figured out how to fix it.
I have a very small 12x20 shed. No electricity. Ext. Cord for lights and portable heater. I do have a new hoist, and new stand. I will figure it out IF you guys are patient. Anyway, I appreciate any input I can get. I have Haynes, a digital FSM that some wonderful person put out there, and a Brother-in-law who is parts manager of a Toyota dealership.
I will get this done, one way or another. Thanks Guys.....RG

Here We Go.

 

You are doing great. Slow is much better than fast and slipshod, where you might have to do it over again.

 

Thank You Millball
My truck has been down for over 4 years now. Family stuff (drama) just wouldn't let me do the job. There will be no do-overs if I can help it. I'm not wealthy but, I have the resources to do it right. Heck, I could go buy a new one but, this one is MINE. Bought it new in 1993. Much more valuable to me than anything they have on their lot. It's clean and straight.
I guess if I have one real hang up about things, it's cheap chinese junk. I would really rather not have that in my old friend........Thanks Again......RG.

 

Figuring it out is the best, getting it done yourself is awesome!
Agree with you about the cheap junk.

 

Worth Saving. I live near a school. I lost count of the offers to sell it. No. Just no.

They just don't make these anymore.

 

That does look really sweet, especially to those of us in the salt belt. Nice!

 

Before I pulled the head.
I took the head off so I could more easily reach those two famous bolts. Chain was intact BUT, Ted noticed she had jumped time. One link at the top, one at the bottom. Ready to pull the block but, I don't have a transmission jack. What do most folks do to hold up the transmission?

 

You can use a jackstand, a scissor jack, really anything that's the correct height and can hold the weight. A stack of lumber or even a round of tree trunk will do the job just fine.

 

She needs a little love.
I was hoping that was the case. Don't want to buy a trans jack. Rather spend that money on a new AC compeessor😁

 

Nope, you're all good. A transmission jack is just to stabilize it during removal or reinstall so it doesn't tip or roll off the jack. The front of a w56 doesn't weigh that much, I could lift the bellhousing off the stand with one arm. I also used the opportunity to pull the bellhousing and clean it cause the old front input seal leaked and made a mess.

A couple years ago I was where you're at right now and I didn't have much experience either. Just ask anything you can't find on the forums, I sure you already know there's some really good rebuild threads here.

 

I will get it done. Slowly, surely, and as correctly as possible. Thanks again.

 

Hey there,
I don't know how I missed this rebuild thread!
Nice job so far, keep it going. Just don't get discouraged that it's taking so long, a lot of us on here have been working on our trucks for "years" and a 12x20 shed is better then most.
Two bits of advice:
#1-Be really really nice to your sister and brother-in-law
#2-Be really really nice to your sister and brother-in-law
Hump

 

Block WILL come out Saturday. De-greaser. Put it on the stand. Strip it down. Call Jim (machine shop) to schedule. More pics then.

 

Finally got the block out. Cold windy rain. Oh well. Note to self....remember to unhook the wiring to the alternator BEFORE raising the motor. Biggest challenges of the day....boom on hoist too short making a serious PAIN reaching the engine stand, AND....tons of washers required for fitting the block on the stand. I will figure that one out before it goes back in. Probably be awhile anyway. Life is packed.

Flywheel bolts were also a pain.

 

I took off the flywheel before placing the motor on the stand. Was I also supposed to remove the housing for the rear seal? How do you work on that stuff while the block is on the stand? I appreciate y'all...rg

 

You want to remove that before you put it on the engine stand otherwise you really can't disassemble the engine totally. I take it that you are going to remove everything before you take the block in to the shop for work. Once on the stand you can't take the bearing retainer off.

 

Yes. Three steps forward. Two steps back. It was a serious pain putting it on the stand. I'll chain back up. It is what it is.

 

Not sure how much work you will be getting done with Jim (machine shop guy) but make sure you take him everything, including the head, the crankshaft, pistons and rods still attached. I think it will be him telling you if he needs to bore out the cylinders and if you need to buy new pistons and rings but he will need them before he can bore out your block. Another thing that I missed was while he has the crankshaft and it's in good condition and doesn't need to be cut just have him polish it up and have him pull and replace the pilot bearing, I forgot to have that done and it's a PITA without a puller.Also if he needs to resurface the head or block you will need to either give him the old timing chain cover, or buy a new one, he has to have that when he decks your block.

 

Just one more thing, very important, buy quality parts! Here are a few of the places that sell good quality parts
https://22reperformance.com/22re-engine-build-parts/
And
https://www.lceperformance.com/
You might want to think about the double timing chain kit while you're at it.
Do it right the first time and you won't need to do it a second time!

 

Pretty much everything that can be replaced, will be. She had 335,000 on her. New everything. I'm still trying to decide if I want to do AC or not. This is Arkansas though. Summer sucks so I probably will. I appreciate all the input. Sure do👍