I'm not a hardcore wheeler like a lot of the rest of you guys so I use simple ole wheel weights to balance my tires. But just out of curiosity, what happens when you put too many BB's in your tires and you have to remove some? Do you have to break the bead to get them out?

 

Break the bead or use a vacuum.

The reason for dynamic balancing is because larger tires go out of balance very easily since they wear unevenly over the life of the tire.

 

just saw this, haha, ya its gett'n on 30 soon, (she's dd's the 4runner for now while shes in Vancouver taking her lvl 1 horticulture) and im sure when i get around to working on it, shes gonna have some other suggestions. the other day she asked if we could widen the stance. ( she's a keeper!)

 

I have upgraded so many parts on the basis of 'safety', now i need to figure out how a new paint job falls into the safety category without painting it some high-visibility color.

 

rust prevention. rust = structural insecurity and health hazards

 

Brilliant! Thanks.
Funny, I just picked up a Wurth Multi-Sprayer thingy wand to treat the inside of my frame.
(Not My Actual Sprayer, but similar)


I think I'm going to try to POR-15 it, then paraffin. Or maybe some galvanic coating. The interior of my frame was 99% rust free, the e-coat looked great....but I have cut and welded a bunch, disrupting the factory coatings.

 

Pics will be up soon.
Finished wiring my eLockers. Front actuator wouldn't move so I took it apart and discovered a magnet broke and was jamming the motor. Took the broke piece out and glued the larger chunk of the magnet back in. Works like it should now. I didn't use any relays in my wiring, but I did use a single led to indicate when locked.

 

Both lockers are wired up and functioning. However, for some reason the front LED will not light up. The LED functioned when I manual lock the diff but once I put the actuator in it never lit again. I think I need to reset the actuator again. The front diff is locking but must not be closing the locked switch all the way.
The rear locker works as expected.

Don't mind the ghetto fab labels, once I have most of my switches in place I'll be making an entirely new panel.

 

eLocker Schematic no relay



If you ever have to pull the actuator off of the diff, or rebuild it, you will need to follow these instructions to avoid the actuator malfunctioning as mine did. I was off a few teeth, and the 'Lock' switch would not close to illuminate the LED, eventhough the diff was locked.
Actuator FSM


NOTE: The FSM shows that the actuator needs to rotate counterclockwise during reassembly, unless you take the long diff studs out that hold the actuator to the diff this is impossible, however just wiggle it slightly so the teeth mess and it should function fine since there is a 5° tolerance.

 

Yesterday I adjusted the worm gear on the steering box because the truck had a weird wander to it. I say it was wierd because i couldn't always make it happen on the street. Anyhow, I tried tightening it, only got a 1/4 turn before it bottomed out. That 1/4 turn din't make my steering any tighter, I thought that was strange. So I did a bit of reading on the preload for the adjusting screw (worm gear) and found that you need the SST or test and drive.

I guess I never realized that the steering would not return to center when making turns, I figured it was just the addition of the big meats and SFA.
To remedy this issue, I jacked the front end up and loosened the adjusting screw. When i couldn't loosen it anymore, I turned the steering lock to lock a few times, then I was able to turn the adjuster again to make it looser.

The reason I was doing this is because I thought the adjuster needed to be reset further out so I could tighten up my steering. I'm not sure if this step was necessary, but it did make the steering feel better. The FSM says that 40mm (1-5/8") of play in the steering is acceptable, personally I think that is huge and may rebuild my steering box again to see if I did something wrong last year when I rebuilt it.

What I learned is that my steering adjuster screw was set too tight, and the tires not returning to center was giving it the weird wander on the road. Keep in mind I have my toe accurately(silver sharpie on a jack-stand and spin the tire method then set the truck on the ground) set to just a touch over an 1/8" and my caster is set to 6° using a digital angle finder set to 0° using the road surface the truck sits on for reference.....anal, maybe.

Result, truck drives better then it ever has, very confident at speed, and off camber roads or rutted asphalt. I am still adjusting the screw a bit, till I find the sweet spot of drag and return to center.

so then I took some poser shots...I really need to get her out on the trails to really stretch her legs.

 

Great pics! I love the Locker switch setup. Great idea with the panel!!.

 

YES! I guess I'm almost as excited as I will be when that diesel project starts coming into view. I have to get mine smogged before May and then I am free to start my swap. I think over 2 years, with the buffer zone therein of around 18 months, I should be able to gather everything and get it done, haha.... I can't wait to have that 275 horsepower! Lol.

 

thanks for the kind words guys. I need to get started or finish the winch bumper next.

 

Just a link for an arduino project that will get me closer to building my own EFan control
http://www.janspace.com/b2evolution/arduino.php

http://www.wps.com/AMC/195.6OHV/Electric-fans/

 

Replaced the Monster Valves with these low-profile compressor drains



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Dual Battery Circuit Breaker install 100amp


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Got out to wheel a bit this weekend, truck is waaaaaay more capable then I am. One thing I learned from this trip....I better get armor ASAP.
One thin I will say about the 3-Link in the front, going over obstructions in the trail is so noticably different that it feels like two separate vehicles. When the front hits a 12" rock/log it lumbers over gracefully. When the rear leafs hit the same obstacle, the hole truck moves more noticeably, shifting the truck back and forth. My rear springs are the OME Dakars, so they aren't Chevy 63s which would be softer as I've heard.
The rear is getting linked as soon as I can figure out where to stuff a fuel tank. Not many pics, but I have a vid I'll get up soon.

 

A few pics from the Gore trip





video
[youtube] [/youtube]

There seems to be some 'clacking' sounds coming from the front end, ....EDIT: Heim joints needed tightening after some use.

 

The runner looks great! And the trip even more. Excellent work.

 

Thanks it was a decent trip, wish I got more exciting pics.

 

Man I love the look of your runner. Looks like a great place to wheel also.