^^^ $$$, plain and simple.
While it may be close to the same price, you cannot buy the FROR in pieces. The FROR kit is really great since you get all the pieces you need, and it is priced competitively when you figure all the parts you need.
I am planning on doing a write up on measurements, axle shafts and seal issues once I am finished, because there are a bunch of variables that most FF conversion threads don't detail.

 

makes sense. lookin forward to the write up

 

WOW I CAN'T BELIEVE MY EYES ARE THOSE 6 TON STANDS ACTUALLY STANDING ON THE ROLLUP STAND LIPS HOLDING UP THAT RUNNER? HOLLY COW........

 

^^^ yes they are...WELDED to the ramps.

 

I think a tree stump would've been cooler, or a stack of cinder blocks
But really, at least he didn't use a hi-lift jack as his main support

The stands welded to the ramps isn't a bad idea.

 

Yeah really cool... but a little scary for me... call me chicken.... I've seen guys put cars on forklifts and work on them.

Either way it is a great idea plenty of room to work and get around.

 

Cinderblocks...NO...pavers/bricks to hold the trans in place...YES.

I had to gain enough lift to clear 30" from the floor to the frame. I have seen people use pipe-fitter stands(tall adjustable jack-stands), and jacks welded to old rims. I welcome anyone to come over and TRY to knock this truck off a stand, it's not going anywhere, I tried before i pulled the tires. And besides, my life insurance is paid up!

 

Haha, how bout car insurance? "I was working on my truck and someone knocked it off the jackstands and the whole front end came off" lol

 

I like the way you think.

 

Small update on the full float rear. should use Trail-Gear Drive Flange kit or Toyota P/N: 43421-60020..DO NOT USE P/N: 43421-60040, unless you are buying custom axle shafts.

I went and bought the FJ80 drive flanges, new style 43421-60040. While it has more length to the spline area to decrease wear(30mm), it makes getting an off the shelf axle shaft near impossible. I may either martack the shaft , use some Loctite 660 or machine down the top of the flange returning it to the old style so i can get a cirlip in. The clip is needed to keep the shaft from walking into the pin in the 3rd, so little force is needed to keep it in place.

The drive flange one should use for this set-up is either the Trail-Gear flanges or the older style FJ80 DF # 43421-60020 (old # was 60022)


Old vs. New


Drive Flange test fit on the mini-truck birf. The DF is so thick it bottoms out on the splines, notice I cannot get a circlip on the end...


Hard to see here, but the measurement to where the circlip needs to be on the new axle shaft is 32.5"


All the way down to the pin, i was able to see the tape measure actually hit the pin, and then grab the end of the splines, clearing about 1/8" from the pin for an accurate measurement.


Just the hub and flange


Supra Brakes mounted, still need to be completely burned in:


You can see by the above picture that the old axle seals for the semi-float won't work here, to overcome this a member on pirate4x4 has a reducer made so that i can use the front axle seals here to match the front axle inner shafts to make this a full-float rear.

There are some small issues some builds don't address..
axle seal
axle shaft length, and spline engagement length
Ruff Stuff flanges need to welded on so that an overall WMS-WMS length is 58.5"

I'll be sure to post a more complete 'Here is how I built my Full-Float with part numbers, and lessons learned.

 

fawsome.

also, did you cut off the ruff-stuff caliper mounts to place your own?
and what keeps the axle shaft from coming out of the axle? a c-clip?

looking good. i have free time this weekend, so if you wanted some help, i could do a day trip.

 

Thanks Ian, I think my weekend is booked, might be able to get an hour or two here or there.

The reducer you asked about for a link....I'm checking on it now for you, a member on pirate contacted me, so there is no link.

Trail-Gear hasn't had any reports of the shaft not having enough engagement on the spider gears for the e-locker. I have not compared it to the v6.

I'll have to measure the flange to flange distance.

Yes I cut off the ears on the flanges, I do not know if Ruff Stuff sells flanges sans brake tabs.(cutting them off was no fun)

to anyone doing an SAS, get a grinder, earplugs and shield....and get used to wearing them for a long time if you plan on removing all the welds and brackets from the IFS. I have about 5hrs of grinding and cleaning with probably 4hrs more to go. some of the brackets don't need to be cleaned off completely to complete my 3-link SAS, but I'm not doing all this work to not have a clean frame...maybe a bit OCD.

 

Just got off the phone with Camelback Toyota, they will be exchanging my new style FJ80 drive flanges for the old more shallow ones!!! The customer service there is amazing.

 

These are terrible pics I posted over on 4Wheel Underground to show Brian the clearance issues i have on my 85' SFA. Nothing majorly wrong, just need to get clarification on clearancing them before i tack them in place.

I hope to get better daylight pictures today,
Passenger side Axle Bracket Fitment





Driver Side Axle Bracket Fitment





Back of Panhard bracket

 

Looking great!! What year did those Supra brakes come off of? Did you fab up your own bracket or purchase one from somewhere.

 

The desired Supra/Celica calipers were from 79-mid 81, I think the casting number is 1402 IIRC, and you need the mounting bracket. They are very hard to come by. After the 81 production run, Toyota switched to the popular rotor/drum e-brake combo.

I fabbed my own brackets, they are simple 139mm bolt spacing on 3/8" steel. Hardest part is mocking it up with the hub and rotor to make sure everything is straight and clears.

 

If anyone is interested my progress to the 4 Wheel Undergound SAS is located here:
http://chat.4wheelunderground.com/in...p?topic=246.15

I'll update this thread with more progress when it gets burned in.

 

Thats good. Here I was thinking you were just waiting on parts. Keep up the good work. I really enjoy your posts.

 

Thanks man, I'll get some updates here when I'm not trouble shooting and tech support from Brian.

 

No worries. You definitely don't need to keep me updated. I'm just glad you're sharing. If only some majical 1kd-ftv half cut would show up some where...