on another note RB hows the diesel swap coming along? havent checked in awhile

 

Diesel swap....
been waiting for my Importer to get back to me...then the hurricane fouled things up.

Diesel Hilux at SEMA
http://www.expeditionportal.com/vehi...x-arrives.html

 

got the ol' girl tinted

 

Lookin good. When did you put the hard top back on?

 

Nice, ... "goin back to cali, cali, cali", hehehe... Not sure it reminded me of that song(the tint)... but just popped in my head. Looks good x 2, mang!

 

Thanks guys,
I put the Hardtop back on the Sunday before Sandy hit us. I keep it in my backyard, and didn't want a large limb falling on it, plus its getting cold here.

 

While i wait for call backs from importers, i am going to build a dome light dimmer/timmer. This will keep the light on when you shut the door for a few seconds and then dim or turn off when the vehicle starts(like all new cars have). I hate the fact that the light turns off as soon as you shut the door, so i think i am going to change that.

step one:
Prototype a PCB. If this is successful i may have a few to sell if anyone is interested.

designed it with AutoCAD, stole the schematic idea from another site

 

Sounds cool! Would you be selling this as a kit or as a finished module?

Also any reason why this wouldn't work with an LED replacement dome light? I've been thinking of doing that mod since the stock one isn't very bright.

 

Awesome work on the PCB!

Chuntr - you can replace your 1st gen 4runner door lights and dome light with a 30mm festoon bulb from superbrightleds.com - I just did mine recently, and it's a world of difference. Also just replaced the type 74 bulb behind my HVAC controls and it's clear as day now. Very nice, cheap upgrade (granted, it all shuts down when a door is closed, but...)

 

Thanks! I would have already ordered this if I had figured out what bulb to get. I've already done all the dash lights and most of my brake lights/turn signals with LEDs.

Speaking of the HVAC lights, is there any way to replace those without tearing the entire dashboard and console apart? I got the top cover off but still couldn't see how to get at them.

 

Chuntr - not sure how deep you got in the HVAC control panel but it's really easy to get to the light:
1) Take off the 4 control knobs - the pull straight out
2) remove the black panel with the control labels. Mine is SR5 with the clock on the right side...it's as simple as grabbing the left edge of the bezel around the clock with your finger, at which point you'll see the entire bezel/cover start to flex out toward you...then, gently pry the right side of the bezel by the clock and pry until it pops out. There is a tab on the right side and as you pull/bend the bezel, it will pop out - just go slow.
3) behind the bezel is a clear, skinny piece - this covers the bulb and distributes the light along the width of the controls. there is a "vane" or tab on this that you simply pull toward you and it will come out...again, be gentle.

Once you get it you'll be like "doh!" Just go slow and don't force anything.

 

Thanks! Way easier than I thought. And I already had the dash apart cause I've been putting in new speakers and stereo, so that wasn't lost labor.

 

If i can pull it off, the module will be offered as a complete product, but the user will need to splice the kit into the system.
I have LEDs in the domes, so this circuit will need to work with those.

For any one looking to put LED dome lights in , do not get the 'Cool White' unless you like the blue skin fluorescent look(like being under old cheap fluorescents). The warm whites are much nicer and natural on the skin.

 

step 1:
exposing the image on the photo resist board


Step 2:
Develop the image 10 parts water to 1 part develpoer takes about 5-6 minutes


Step 3:
Rinse in cold water


Step 4:
Etch with Ferric Chloride for about 10minutes or until all copper is removed


Step 5:
rinse in cold water


I wipe the remaining photo resist off with Acetone and then Denatured Alcohol, drill the holes then spread some flux and solder components. You can use Liquid Tin to keep the copper from oxidizing, but its expensive so i just brush some dielectric grease on.
(Warning, do not leave flux on a copper board if you don't plan on soldering immediately...corrosion will follow from the adherence of the flux)

More to come...

 

Way over my head but looks like a great idea!

 

Wow, I have been doing nothing!!

ToDo before Spring:
-Rear eLocker Install(may just build a new Full Float axle since housings are so cheap)
-Weld Up Jerry Can for rear(got the steel cut)
-Front Winch Bumper(need to finish the drawings, get steel cut & pick up my new to me m10000)
-Rear Caliper swap with Park-Brake (found some Supra Calipers)
-Finalize Rock Slider Design and Install(already have the steal)
-get a damn diesel ordered already!!!!!

-----Get my Son's 89 Runner to the house for build up-----

I'll be updating my build thread shortly with more picks and progress on the above mentioned.

 

say what? little b has a runner now? when did this happen? build thread link? one more question?

 

haha, yes little b has a Runner...
Well, we bought it last October, IIRC, because of his stellar grades(and it was a killer price).
His member name is Erock89, but he has not posted yet.

So yes he has a Runner, but it is being stored at my brothers house, need to get it to my house so we can get it roadworthy, and modify... modify....modify.

 

It was good to see ya again RB!!

 

^^^ Same here, don't be a stranger.