Haha, thats what I need, enablers. It's bad enough I research and mod because of the plethora of information available, not to mention my son telling me, we need this or do that would be cool.
So much to do, so little time/money.

 

here are some shots of the conversion.

wheel side:



Driver side, flex hose needed because the caliper floats on the bracket mount. I am going to redo the plumbing here. I didn't think about using the flex line until after i had bent new hard line. All of the brake lines are clear of rubbing on any steel, i just need to make it a cleaner more pro set-up. Probably will redo it when the e-brake gets installed.



Whole axle with all new lines.

 

anyone know where i can find one of these?





they seem to be listed as Kodiak Mechanical Park Brake. I can only find New Zealand distributors, but some searching finds them on GMC C6500 trucks, but i can't find any pictures or part numbers.

Then i Google'd some more, and Kodiak Tractors kept popping up, so i started to think maybe a disc style mechanical caliper as an e-brake for the 4Runner that can be sourced easily for a large tractor?
Of course it would have to hold a significant amount of weight to be useful.

Thanks

 

Not the exact same part but fairly similar:
http://www.jegs.com/p/Wilwood/Wilwoo...57779/10002/-1

And this one seems to be for a Datsun Z but maybe you could get it to fit
http://www.arizonazcar.com/parkingcaliper.html

Don't know if they'll work but I'm sure you'll find something. Fantastic work once again.

 

I should have mentioned that i have researched all of the Wilwood Spot Calipers and similar like you posted. The only issue i have with them is that they are all side pull(parallel to the rotor) and not a center pull(perpendicular to the rotor like our stock drum configuration)

The caliper i listed above is large, similar to the size of a front caliper, so it would have plenty of force for maximum holding power. A caliper like this would make it possible to get just one and make a simple , sleek t-case brake, if i so choose.

 

when you figure it out.. make two please

 

^^^Sure thing. You have an RF1A (gear driven) t-Case, right?

 

http://www.tsmmfg.com/4066.htm

I like this very simple concept, it isn't huge like the Sky or All-Pro, but at $300 i can't justify that coast when it is almost $50-70 more then the above competition. I do realize they probably sell less because it is for an FJ60....just sayin
this is from Man-fre, or something...same cost


i can't belive that little spot caliper could hold a rig on any incline

 

I have what ever Toyota put on there..


and maybe the beauty of a Trans brake is that its before the differential gears????

 

I don't know if it is good or bad. I do know that my brothers Disco has a t-case brake from the factory. His rig is AWD, so essentially when you lock the parking brake, ALL wheels are locked. So if Land Rover thought is was a good idea, there must be some value there.

Plus, mounting it to the t-case removes the second half of the e-brake cable...less to break/stretch. and it looks trick! that is worth at least 7.5hp extra.

 

Have you ever thought about usin a caliper from a motorcycle or ATV and makin your own kit? In one of the pics above I saw the size of the small caliper and that what I thought of. You could prolly get a cycle caliper for pretty cheap at a cycle yard.

 

save all that time and money and just leave it in gear.. its what i do on all my manual trans. never use ebrake so i dont wear the cables and have to adjust them every 15k

 

Well, we get winter where I live, and I like letting the rig warm up a bit before I drive it. And my ebrake is piece of mind that it isn't going to roll without me. The 4Ruster I had before this, would pop out of first.

 

When those engines get old an tired they don't really hold to well. My first 88 I had the e-brake was rusted into one piece and I about rolled through my grandma's garage door one time.

 

Shag you are right. If I have the truck in second on a slight hill it will roll.

 

And as long as you don't try an rip the e-brake out of the dash when you set it the cables really don't stretch to much. I have had my hatch for maybe 3 years not and adjusted the e-brake once after I got it.

O an nice work on the brakes man. I'm still Workin on a way to do my rears. But there are still a few things in front of the brakes still.

 

Looks good man .. But whats the benefit of using those calipers if they dont have the ebrake , is it the price?.. You can have the same calipers on all 4 corners (Toyota 4runner 1988-1995) using the tacoma rotor. Alot easier ,less fabricating, you still need to remove some material from the flange , but can do it at home with a grinder.. would be best to grind the flange before you replace the seals and bearings on the axle , of course letting cool every now and then ...
been running this setup for about 2 years now , and have had no problems with the flange or hardlines to caliper. Did bend a rear axle though, half way from the flange and the diff
but i guess the more ideas the better
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...nstall-191482/
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SOwjj...ature=youtu.be

 

I've had the same Ebrake set up on my 87 for 263K miles, never once had to adjust it, as long as I keep fresh pads on the rear, everything oiled properly and a lil white lithium grease sprayed on where it counts on the system. However; I'm sure the fact that I never have salt or snow to deal with has a bit to do with that, right? lol. I think Baltimore is a bit less forgiving on these rigs than L.A. is, eh?

If, through some research, you find that this T-case brake will lock it up best, give you some extra piece of mine and wont be too expensive or difficult.....OH, and adds 7.5HP? DO ITTTTTTT! lol

 

RMA, I went with the caliper because it was cheap, toyota and easy to replace pads, just pull some pins. I thought about grinding it down but in my case I wanted to have the hub turned also to fit the rotors. I replaced all the bearings and gaskets so the axle had to come out. Also, the calipers fit solid rotors and they are single piston which means smaller fluid displacement. Pedal feel was a main concern. The lack of ebrake is the kicker, but even with an ebrake caliper I would still have some fab work to make it cooperate.

Chef, I've had lots of ebrake calipers on care and never adjusted them, toyota drums are another story. But your right, not yanking on the stick helps.

 

OOOOOPS! I should have said, "as long as I keep fresh shoes on the rear", NOT pads... My bad! lol. yeah, ....I even have the same drums since 1987. Had my machinist check em out when I was rebuilding the motor. I think a LOT of it has to do with, YES, the yanking on the handle stuff, and maybe the Baltimore vs. Los Angeles Climate/Environment? lol.