86-95 Trucks & 4Runners (Build-Up Section) Post your build-ups here

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Old Oct 2, 2010 | 08:03 PM
  #241  
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From: Dixon, Ca
Are those 33/9.5s? Great build.
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Old Oct 2, 2010 | 10:08 PM
  #242  
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Originally Posted by 4RunningColorado
yo Kinda late and short notice but Sunday@10:30am King supers parking lot South boulder meeting there to run Jenny Creek if you're down...
PEACE
I'm going to pass, but thanks again!
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Old Oct 2, 2010 | 10:09 PM
  #243  
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From: Arvada, Colorado
Originally Posted by Teuf
Are those 33/9.5s? Great build.
Depends on the pic, but yes, I was running 33x9.5 BFG AT's for quite some time. I'm now running 35x12.5's.
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Old Dec 9, 2010 | 09:24 PM
  #244  
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nice thread just read the whole thing. done anything to it lately?
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Old Dec 10, 2010 | 05:43 AM
  #245  
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From: Arvada, Colorado
Not yet, but this winter, Morph 2 is starting. It's getting a 4 link rear, TC Caddy kit up front, and a 3.4, R151 swap.
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Old Dec 10, 2010 | 11:31 AM
  #246  
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Wow, thatll be quite the combo. When's the completion date?
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Old Dec 10, 2010 | 12:05 PM
  #247  
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From: Arvada, Colorado
My wedding, June 5.
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Old Dec 10, 2010 | 12:27 PM
  #248  
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From: North Carolina
Man, wedding stuff and truck rebuild at the same time? Can you keep all your steering upgrades with the LT? Are you keeping your current rear axle or getting a wider one? Congratulations btw.

Last edited by stock as possible; Dec 10, 2010 at 12:32 PM.
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Old Dec 10, 2010 | 12:48 PM
  #249  
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From: Arvada, Colorado
Originally Posted by stock as possible
Man, wedding stuff and truck rebuild at the same time? Can you keep all your steering upgrades with the LT? Are you keeping your current rear axle or getting a wider one? Congratulations btw.
Wedding stuff is not being decided by me Go figure right?

I will need longer tie rods for the LT, just a bit of welding and more tubing, not a big deal.

Axle isn't decided yet. I may be running a later model 4 runner axle, or a T100. I will not be keeping the current axle. I bent it wheeling.

Its going to depend on what I find out in some suspension design books I just ordered from amazon. I need to find out what width I need to track in the manner I want offroad, yet still be streetable.

Thanks man!
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Old Dec 10, 2010 | 01:53 PM
  #250  
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I was refering to the money spending, not the decision making . I've had to start thinking about slowing down on mine recently, as I just purchased a ring yesterday myself.

How much of your existing stuff will you be replacing? Can you keep your front chunk or do you have to get T100 stuff for that kit? Keeping your dual case set up? Ive been researching links recently, but just barely scratching the surface. It still amazes me that a race car and a monster truck can have a similar suspension. Dont skimp on the pics and writeup!
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Old Dec 10, 2010 | 04:54 PM
  #251  
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Write up is already started.

The front diff will remain the same for now. If money allows, I may run an 8" HP front in a fabbed housing, either by me, or by FROR. Either way, I'd really like to upgrade to RCV shafts, but at 1700 bucks, its not in the cards right now.

Behind my air lockers, the dual cases is the best modification I've ever done. Some one would have to pry both out of my cold dead hands.

The kit requires T100 axles, which came on my parts truck. Check out my new thread in the Fab shop section.
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Old Dec 13, 2010 | 12:12 PM
  #252  
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Speaking of duals, what did you do for your front shaft? I want to run duals now while still IFS, with an SAS down the road, is there an option to achieve both with one shaft?
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Old Dec 13, 2010 | 12:21 PM
  #253  
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Originally Posted by stock as possible
Speaking of duals, what did you do for your front shaft? I want to run duals now while still IFS, with an SAS down the road, is there an option to achieve both with one shaft?
Possibly. You need a long spline shaft for a SAS. You could measure your driveshaft length, and just make sure that the shaft is at close to its shortest length with the IFS. Order the shaft with the long spline option, and then likely you could have the drive shaft carry over to the SAS>

Take out your front shaft and clearance the CV joint for maximum angle before taking it to get lengthed and long-splined, so it gets balanced with the new stuff.
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Old Dec 13, 2010 | 12:56 PM
  #254  
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Great, thanks
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Old Jan 11, 2011 | 10:54 AM
  #255  
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From: Boulder, CO
Axle Ike I'm in boulder I'm having major steering issues with the stock it's I was wondering if I coulder hire you to help me build up the IRS make is unbreakable...let me know via Text if you can 7204132292
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Old Jan 11, 2011 | 12:57 PM
  #256  
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I appreciate the confidence mate, but I'm afraid I cannot do that. The liability there is WAY more than I want to deal with. I am not a certified welder, nor am I qualified to be one. Just a home hobby type welder.

My apologies.
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Old Feb 18, 2011 | 10:20 AM
  #257  
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Question I installed low pro bumpstops but due to my shocks I cannot get them to hit or bottom out better said if I put spacers underneath the upper control arms of the shocks will they hit? And if so am I getting more flex???
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Old Feb 18, 2011 | 03:53 PM
  #258  
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Can you rephrase that? I have no idea what you are talking about.
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Old Feb 18, 2011 | 04:37 PM
  #259  
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I removed the stock Ifs bump stops replaced them with low profile one 5/8 inch thinking o would get more travel right... Well I got her as flex out as I could sure enough the bump stops did not hit at all... I got the idea from 4x4 wire minute mods Ifs travel the website says to cut or install low pros then if they don't hit to change the shocking using spacers to lower the top of the shock from the upper control arm that doing this will allow more travel ine shocks in turn more flex since your the Ifs guru I was wondering your thoughts on this if ya got time google 4x4wire minute mods I'm sure you know about them thanks Ike you have been a huge help in my build
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Old Feb 19, 2011 | 07:08 AM
  #260  
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That will work as long as you are not using all the uptravel in your shock right now.

Meaning, when you flex the arms upwards, how much travel is left in the shock? I'm assuming a good bit, but if there isn't, you will need different shocks. Check that first, and if you have travel left in the shock, then space the shock down, and you should be good to go. And yes, that will give you more travel.
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