I got the email notification of this and when I read "fabricated light mounts" I admit I panicked a moment, thinking you were off roading your masterpiece. That's a nice job and those reverse lights would have come in handy in the days I had a boat. This has turned out to be an epic restoration thread. Where did you get the under hood decals?

 

“Masterpiece” LOL! Thanks. Front lights coming soon!

I got the underhood stickers from Ebay seller toyota4low.
I think the adhesive could be stronger because after being exposed to the underhood temp one of them was peeling, so i shot it with 3M Super 77 spray adhesive. No more peeling.


This stuff is great to have around!

 

Well, i’ve been watching Craigslist and FB marketplace for months. Finally someone local has advertised a rebuilt 22re in good running condition. He’s swapping in a Chevy 305 to his 87 4r that is an on/off road truck.

We met up Sunday near Boston and i got to hear it run, pull the plugs and check compression numbers right there in the parking lot. All looked good so we made a deal. He’s in the process of pulling the 22re now and I’ll go get it with a uhaul utility trailer on the weekend.

The plan is a little undefined after that, but i’ll probably run it temporarily while I send my original out for a lower end rebuild.

 

yours is looking excellent!

 

After we agreed to a deal, Kool Kevin wasted no time ejecting the 22re from his 4runner’s engine compartment. I was rigging up the wife's car to pull a small uhaul trailer but after the snowstorm decided to rent a pickup to move the engine instead. With snowbanks everywhere maneuvering a trailer would have sucked.



How much does a $19.95 Uhaul actually cost?



This is what a 305 Chevy looks like in a 4runner engine bay.



Ready for transport. I also got the AFM and his old exhaust system and clutch and pressure plate in the deal.

 

So the story goes that this 22re was supposedly rebuilt about 10k miles ago and seller claims to have paperwork to support it but he hasn’t found it yet. It was rebuilt under the previous owner. It was done by a shop in Maine that specializes in Toyotas. So i’ve been checking it out, looking for evidence to support this. The shop really exists, maybe if i contact them, they’ll be able to corroborate. The clutch was supposedly done at the same time.

I’m sure the engine has been running great and Kevin is a very straight shooter so I believe his story,(once he finds the paperwork all should be verified) but i’m a bit skeptical(always) that maybe what the previous owner thought was a rebuild was only a valvejob. At any rate, here’s what i can see:
*comp test blew 135 on cyls 1,2,3 and 130psi on 4. Seems low but consistent. Engine was hot but i did not have the throttle valve open. In my experience i haven’t seen it matter. Let me know if you disagree.
*oil looks a bit dirty but full.
*coolant was red and clear.
*valve train looks spotless.
*clutch disc, pressure plate and flywheel surfaces look great, no heat discoloration or cracks visible.
*i stuck a scope down each cylinder, can see crosshatch on cyl walls, not much buildup on piston surfaces. Too bad i can’t tell if it is std bore or oversize.
*inside of the plenum is much cleaner than mine.

So all in all, it seems better than my original. I guess i might pull the pan and look at rod bearings, get a plastigage measurement. That will only cost me some RTV.


I bought this engine crane off a coworker who was making wine in his basement. He was using it to move casks. He gave up on winemaking.

Aisin CTX-062.

Clutch disc is Aisin and shows very little wear.

Inside of valve cover and valvetrain is spotless!

Hmm...timing gear says “USA” on it.

The guides are plastic, but intact.

Looks ok.

Kevin put an LCE egr blockoff on it. Mine is blocked using a BB in the vacuum line, per the old TRD whitepaper from the 90’s.

 

Wow you have been busy! Originally I did like the idea of the 305 in a Toyota. It looks a little tight but I think I like it.

I still like the idea of getting another complete 22RE for what your looking to do. As for the single row timing chain goes here's what I've observed with it. I drove one for 14 years and knew nothing about it. The last engine it was 10 years old and still intact. Maybe after 14 years it could become a problem. Is double row and metal guides better? Probably.

 

I like seeing that 305 swap in process. I think it's going to be great. Just not in MY truck!

 

Today i continued the analysis of the engine i bought. I pulled the intake and oil pan to get to the bearings. On the intake, one thermostat housing bolt broke and both bolts that hold the IAC valve broke. No matter, i’m not planning to use that intake. Nothing scary in the oil pan.
I pulled a representative rod bearing cap and main bearing cap and found both are oversized by .5mm (.020”). So that’s the proof i was looking for that somebody went through the bottom end. I plastigaged the bearings and both measured about .0018” of oil clearance. The spec is .0010”-.0022” so we’re looking good there. I torqued the bearing caps, put a new Fel-pro cork gasket on the oil pan and buttoned it back up.


New cork gasket. Because i had one in the garage.

Rod bearing, .5mm over.

Crank journals

Looks pretty good in there.

Main bearing, .5mm over.

Plastigage rod journal.

Plastigage main journal.

 

The only thing I can’t tell is whether the engine has been overbored. I’d have to pull the head. Now just have to clean it up a bit, paint it and swap over the intake and alternator from my original engine. Oh yeah, i have a rear main seal that was in a box of parts when i bought my truck, so might as well throw that at the temporary engine too.

 

I don't know about "temporary " this engine looks like a long term power plant. Looking good!

that reminds me, another reason I rebuilt the engine I had. The rods were a bunch of miss matched rods in the last one. They were numbered at the the factory and mine had two number 2s a 3 and a 4 but none in any order also. It looked like the endcaps may have be from whole other rods also. Maybe a machine shop could have matched them up but I didn't know for sure. I swapped them too. Also swapped out the crankshaft with a regrind because the rear main side had a grove in it. I could of don a speedy sleeve but naa.

 

The numbers on the rods are not meant to be in any order, so don't take that as a sign of shoddy workmanship. Toyota is pretty detailed with their engines and there are in fact multiple sizes of bearings that are all "standard". They are fine tuned to get the bearing clearance just right. The different sizes of standard bearings come in increments of about 0.0002" to 0.0003", that's tenths of a thou. From the factory the rod bearing sizes are stamped on the rod caps. The main bearing sizes are stamped on the bottom of the block on the surface that mates with the pan. There's a row of five numbers for the main bearing sizes, and a row of four numbers for what I think are the piston sizes (the pistons are marked with numbers also which do not equate to the cylinder number, but rather the exact size to match the slight variations in bore). Aftermarket bearing manufacturers don't go to this detail, when you buy an aftermarket standard set, they are all the same size. This is detailed in the 1988 FSM on pages EM-60 and EM-62.

 

Thanks, Alex, i didn’t notice any other numbers except on the rod caps - 2, 2, 3, 1 front to rear, and mains 1,2,_,4,5.

 

yeah, i am calling this engine temporary because i would prefer having the original in place. I know it probably doesn’t affect the value of the 4runner much if at all, it’s just a hangup from being brought up with muscle cars in the family.

We’ll see what really happens if i get too busy with life/work in 2021 to worry about it.😁

 

The main caps ARE numbered in order front to back 1-5. The rod caps are stamped according to their size, NOT their location. The main bearing sizes are stamped on the bottom of the block towards the back. I forget if it's on the left or right side of the pan rail surface.

 

This is what led me to believe the rods were numbered with the caps. It doesn't matter much now anyway I needed small ends redone also.

 

earlier in the RM (Repair Manual) the instructions mention adding punch marks or using number stamps to match the rods with their caps. thus, in the above instruction you posted, it is referring to the numbers that the rebuilder added to the rods, not numbers from the factory.

 

yeah, I realized it now but then I thought Toyota was being so nice putting numbers on every thing for me. 😂

good info. I still have them rods and numbers on them from me. Maybe I'll build a temporary engine one day.....

 

Today i decided to remove everything that is dirty and needs paint. In the process, broke one bolt, spent way too long drilling it out and decided i should have bought easy-outs 30 years ago. So that will be tomorrow’s purchase.


That red valve cover has to go.

Much better.

Snap.

 

Them "easy outs" are a nightmare to drill out when they brake too. The smaller ones like to snap. How was everones favorite Allen head bolt on the intake?