MaltDisney's '86 4Runner brought back to life
#22
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Thread Starter
So today on my drive in to work my 4runner started revving up to about 3k rpm when the clutch was in our when in neutral, but it still drove ok in town and on the freeway. My first instinct is just a sticky throttle cable, but I'm not sure. Ideas anyone?
#23
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Thread Starter
Still accepting suggestions...
#24
Registered User
Sticky vane in the AFM maybe. Seems like mine did that at some point and mine was sticking open.
#25
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Thread Starter
Edit: My problem seems to have quasi-resolved itself part way thru my drive home.. This makes me think you are right about the sticking AFM.
But I tend to be suspicious of miracle fixes where I did nothing, is there some way to clean/lubricate the part that is sticking on the AFM? Obviously I'd rather not replace this $$part$$ if I don't have to.
Last edited by MaltDisney; 11-07-2013 at 02:09 PM.
#26
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Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: San Diego
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IM digging this truck! Reminds me of alot of the little things I need to do to mine.
Call me rare....but I dig the Porno Red interiors. I always have. In the 1st gen 4R's and Fox Body Mustangs. Something about those two vehicles with red interiors....im weird I know.
Call me rare....but I dig the Porno Red interiors. I always have. In the 1st gen 4R's and Fox Body Mustangs. Something about those two vehicles with red interiors....im weird I know.
#27
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Thread Starter
Let me clarify my feelings about the red interior b/c I don't totally hate them, I just dislike them due to their extra needs--> see reasons:
Reasons:
-with the red interior you NEED to have shag carpeting
= big pain to clean
-I like having a rear seat, which you can't have with a red interior b/c you NEED to have a bed in the back (preferably a water bed)
-I don't want to be cleaning "lady juices" off of my seats all the time
[no pic]
-You can't have window tint in NH, which is almost a requirement due to the other requirements of a red interior (see above)
-and worst of all, you almost need to have wheels like these...
Last edited by MaltDisney; 12-12-2013 at 02:46 PM.
#29
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HAHA!! Crazy cause my runner has red interior and i had a 89 gt 5.0 with red interior.I hate it but its funny you call it porno red. You guys are funny!!LMAO!!
#30
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Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: San Diego
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Oh me and my buddys back home have aleays called it that. One of them had a white 91 notch back LX 2.3L fox body and we always called it's "porno red." Then another friend a few years later ended up wih a white LX 5.0 fox body. I loved the red and told him it was porno red. It stuck and he calls it that to this day. Maybe its a childhood growing up around it thing...but LONG LIVE THE PORNO RED INTERIORS!!!!
#31
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Thread Starter
2nd gen speaker boxes in 1st gen?
It occurred to me after I replaced the speakers in the dash, that there is nothing really behind them, unlike in a 2nd gen, where they sit in a box filled with insulation.
So I'm wondering if I could make these 2nd gen boxes fit in my 1st gen. Anyone try this before or have something else they tried instead?
Here's a pic of the drivers box (in my hand) and the passenger attached to the glove box.
So I'm wondering if I could make these 2nd gen boxes fit in my 1st gen. Anyone try this before or have something else they tried instead?
Here's a pic of the drivers box (in my hand) and the passenger attached to the glove box.
#32
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Thread Starter
Replace headliner? + upcoming work
The interior of my runner leaves a bit to be desired. Particularly my headliner - it has stains and at least one cig burn hole.
I was thinking that my parts car (2nd gen) has a pretty decent headliner, and I'm wondering if anyone has tried to do some sort of swap - 2nd to 1st?
Maybe this is a stupid idea, I dont know, its just that I already have the 2nd gen.
I know I definitely plan on taking the sun visors from the parts car, cause the current ones look like poop.
On a different note I plan on installing this stuff today - new steering components
This stuff came out to $110, which isn't too bad for: idler arm, pitman arm, and inner + outer tie-rod ends
Ill do my best to take pics of the process. I need to do this stuff so that I can get my front end aligned.
I was thinking that my parts car (2nd gen) has a pretty decent headliner, and I'm wondering if anyone has tried to do some sort of swap - 2nd to 1st?
Maybe this is a stupid idea, I dont know, its just that I already have the 2nd gen.
I know I definitely plan on taking the sun visors from the parts car, cause the current ones look like poop.
On a different note I plan on installing this stuff today - new steering components
This stuff came out to $110, which isn't too bad for: idler arm, pitman arm, and inner + outer tie-rod ends
Ill do my best to take pics of the process. I need to do this stuff so that I can get my front end aligned.
#34
Registered User
Thread Starter
Nice! Yes, please do post about your experience with replacement parts. FA5040 for idler arms, correct? If not, suggest you visit 4Crawler's site and this
This is what my steering system looked like earlier today
and..
as you can see, the adjusting sleeves were basically "nature welded" to the tie rods, and most of the seals were totally shot.
Tools:
-pitman arm puller
-ratchet + 17 & 19mm + other assorted ones..
-extension (section of pipe)
-1 1/4 in wrench for pitman arm
-BFH
-propane torch
I didn't realize how difficult the pitman arm was going to be to take off.
Now I know that when using a pitman arm puller, the strategy is:
1. get as close to braking the puller as you dare (see above for extra bold)
2. heat where the arm attaches to the splines w/ torch- I did ~5-7mins w/ a propane torch
3. turn the steering wheel all the way to the right and hit pitman arm with BFH
Last edited by MaltDisney; 11-12-2013 at 02:17 PM.
#36
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Thread Starter
completed and future projects
I got the steering together before putting it back on
drivers side
passenger side
I feel stupid for not getting a new steering stabilizer while replacing everything else. Has anyone tried one other than OME? I saw a procomp one for $40 and I'm wondering if its any good (about half the price of OME).
Anyway I finally installed my new clutch slave b/c the old one was leaving evidence on the floor(and on tranny), and I got this replacement for $15 on amazon and it's aisin. Here's the new one in place.
new vs. old
I got my front end aligned today and I am lucky that I live so close to the alignment shop cause that was a crazy drive. I barely tried at all to make the wheels parallel, so on my drive the steering wheel was darting back and forth, and the tires squealed above 10 mph so it sounded like i was skidding the whole way.
I also figured out that my revving-in-neutral problem is very likely a sticking throttle cable. I plan on seeing how cheap I can get a replacement. I will also see if lubricating it will work.
I managed to find an sr5 cluster for $20 so I'm gonna get that this weekend.
Last edited by MaltDisney; 11-17-2013 at 11:18 AM.
#37
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Thread Starter
Help! High Idle Happens all the time now
So Ive been trying to figure out what is causing my high Idle in neutral. It used to only happen after the car got warmed up, where the engines revs to 3 or 4k rpm when not in gear (clutch in or in neutral). It also used to be somewhat intermittent (it would mysteriously go away).
After talking with a couple mechanics, I decided that my problem must be a sticking throttle cable. But I'm sorry to say that I just replaced it (got a used one for $30) and it did not fix the problem. Now it has a high idle when cold as well.
I think this seems like a sensor type problem.. My two guesses are IAC valve and TPS (brand new, but duralast brand). I tried turning the idle adjustment screw all the way in, and this did not change the idle at all - ~3k rpm, but I'm not sure if this proves anything.
Anyone have any suggestions??
This is really starting to piss me off b/c other wise my truck was finally running great
After talking with a couple mechanics, I decided that my problem must be a sticking throttle cable. But I'm sorry to say that I just replaced it (got a used one for $30) and it did not fix the problem. Now it has a high idle when cold as well.
I think this seems like a sensor type problem.. My two guesses are IAC valve and TPS (brand new, but duralast brand). I tried turning the idle adjustment screw all the way in, and this did not change the idle at all - ~3k rpm, but I'm not sure if this proves anything.
Anyone have any suggestions??
This is really starting to piss me off b/c other wise my truck was finally running great
#38
Registered User
Thread Starter
solved kind of.. Found likely solution
I can say with relative certainty that my idle problem is/was directly related to my cheap tps. Somehow it was WAY off from being set with in specs even tho I had JUST set it properly 2 weeks ago.
It doesn't quite pass test #1 on 4crawlers site after re-adjusting it properly, but its close at 1.2K ohms and it works much better than before- now it has a very slight surge f/ 800-1k rpm once warm but drives OK otherwise.
I plan on trying to get a used toyota tps sometime this week and returning the aftermarket.
It doesn't quite pass test #1 on 4crawlers site after re-adjusting it properly, but its close at 1.2K ohms and it works much better than before- now it has a very slight surge f/ 800-1k rpm once warm but drives OK otherwise.
I plan on trying to get a used toyota tps sometime this week and returning the aftermarket.
#39
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Thread Starter
Runs like top. Other goodies
It's been a while since I've given any updates. I finally got the 'ole beastie running like she should. There were two main problems, tps and throttle stop screw. The tps [89452-20050] (used to be [89452-28030] but was superseded) I'd had was bad, then I tried to get a used one twice, and both had broken return springs and Id tried one from autozone but it broke internally with in a week, so I finally bought one from the dealership.
Then I started taking pieces off of my parts 4runner (2nd gen) and putting them on this one. I took the sun visors.
I guess it's tough to tell in this pic, but the one on the left is pretty off-colored and dirty.
Then I decided to replace this
with this.
I unscrewed the wood from the top of the console and screwed on the cover from my parts rig. Also notice the excellent cup holder. I think they were 4 for 2 dollars at mal-wart.
Upgraded my wipers to 2nd gen which seem sturdier and in my case are much cleaner.
Old:
new:
I managed to get an sr5 cluster for $20, unfortunately it didn't have a cover. This was really helpful to follow when I was doing my swap even tho its for a later model truck, its very similar: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...w-pics-179106/
BTW I recommend that you use a dining fork to remove the needle form the speedo if you are going to swap odometers. You just leverage against the black screws.
Here's a couple pics.
sorry, crappy cell phone pics, but you might notice that the cluster does not look perfect, that's because I had to modify my old cover to work (it also has a mount for a now-broken compass). I will probably want to go back at some point and smooth up the edges of the plastic and paint it black. Also, I have not installed my new oil pressure sender (old is disconnected) but here is the part # for the sr5 sender 83520-35031 I got it for $50 at the dealership.
I have my replacement oil pressure switch at the dealership along with a check/fill plug for my transmission and a rear wiper blade. Just finished changing my front diff and transfer case fluids. Hopefully I'll be able to remove the check/fill plugs from the transmission and the rear diff. I'm just using 80w90 for everything..
Then I started taking pieces off of my parts 4runner (2nd gen) and putting them on this one. I took the sun visors.
I guess it's tough to tell in this pic, but the one on the left is pretty off-colored and dirty.
Then I decided to replace this
with this.
I unscrewed the wood from the top of the console and screwed on the cover from my parts rig. Also notice the excellent cup holder. I think they were 4 for 2 dollars at mal-wart.
Upgraded my wipers to 2nd gen which seem sturdier and in my case are much cleaner.
Old:
new:
I managed to get an sr5 cluster for $20, unfortunately it didn't have a cover. This was really helpful to follow when I was doing my swap even tho its for a later model truck, its very similar: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...w-pics-179106/
BTW I recommend that you use a dining fork to remove the needle form the speedo if you are going to swap odometers. You just leverage against the black screws.
Here's a couple pics.
sorry, crappy cell phone pics, but you might notice that the cluster does not look perfect, that's because I had to modify my old cover to work (it also has a mount for a now-broken compass). I will probably want to go back at some point and smooth up the edges of the plastic and paint it black. Also, I have not installed my new oil pressure sender (old is disconnected) but here is the part # for the sr5 sender 83520-35031 I got it for $50 at the dealership.
I have my replacement oil pressure switch at the dealership along with a check/fill plug for my transmission and a rear wiper blade. Just finished changing my front diff and transfer case fluids. Hopefully I'll be able to remove the check/fill plugs from the transmission and the rear diff. I'm just using 80w90 for everything..
Last edited by MaltDisney; 12-18-2013 at 03:37 PM.