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DANG! I just noticed these rims. Beautiful, understated and tasteful!
Thanks! I thought so too
Yes. If automatic, need to add a starter relay. If manual with starter relay, the relay is guaranteed to have been WIRED WRONG IN THE FACTORY. Need to re-wire for $11 bucks worth of materials and about half-hour work. Then your wife can slam the door all she wants and not affect cranking - LOL!
I Checked awhile back when I first started having issues, fortunately mine is all good!
Really? But how come you still have intermittent click-only but no-crank?
You mean yours is the only exception to the wrong wiring from the factory, as documented on this schematic of 1986 trucks?
Does your Pin4 always have 12V even when ignition is off?
I checked that many months ago and convinced myself yes, now I'm doubting myself, so I'll have to check again
Also, I thought early model 86's were wired correctly
I checked that many months ago and convinced myself yes, now I'm doubting myself, so I'll have to check again
Also, I thought early model 86's were wired correctly
Models before mid-1986 did not have starter relays, so that is not ideal. Starter relay was added around mid-1986 but were wired wrong... including JPL's 1991 22R-E (here).
Models before mid-1986 did not have starter relays, so that is not ideal. Starter relay was added around mid-1986 but were wired wrong... including JPL's 1991 22R-E (here).
Mine was built sept. Of 85, so I probably don't have the relay then, i think I have one laying around at home I can probably use
Mine was built sept. Of 85, so I probably don't have the relay then, i think I have one laying around at home I can probably use
It's here.
Mid-1986 is just an approximation based on what we have seen, and people sharing info on theirs. There are some exceptions/variations. Probably depended on how much sake the production worker drank when he worked on the truck
Last edited by RAD4Runner; 07-27-2017 at 03:32 PM.
you are indeed correct, hoping to make that mod this afternoon
In other news, the starting/running rough is driving me crazy. My idle is all over the place.
It's not the starter issue, something is causing my idle to be all over the place, especially when cold.
Once it was actually running under it's own power for a couple seconds, then died
sometimes sounds really lopey when cold
always takes the gas pedal to get it started, but when running, often blows white smoke and smells rich (not like antifreeze, thank goodness)
my check engine light will sometimes come on for a second or 2 after starting
One day I pulled in at home and it was idling at 500
sometimes at stop lights it idles at 1200
It seems like I'm getting not enough fuel when starting (throttle kick), and too much when running (smells rich)?
I soaked the engine bay in carb cleaner and couldn't find any vacuum leaks
it's not the idle adjust, new screw and oring
not the O2 sensor, that's fairly new
I thought MAF (or vafm or whatever it's called on the 22re) made a lot of sense and saw similar issues in another thread, but I pulled it this morning and the spring loaded door seems to move just fine. (need to check fsm for how to really check)
plugs are newish
rotor is newish
EGR system is long gone, so that's out of the picture
Finally completed the starter relay mod, works great, hopefully I'm never stuck in need of a bump start again!
Didn't have crimp connectors on hand, but this is how NASA solders wires together (lash tightly with a small gauge wire). Can't see it but there is an even smaller gauge under the stranded wire (a single strand).
Nasa says wraps shall not cross and blah blah, this should be good enough, it's not a satellite.
Then heat shrink.
Fold the other wire over on itself and heat shrink it as well
The inline fuse I pulled off the junk pile. 30A
All tucks in quite nicely. Pretty happy with myself.
Pulled the AC belt, just in case the clutch was seizing and putting too much load on the system. No dice. Still fired up like a 50 year old diesel kubota.
Ran all 4crawlers measurements on the AFM/MAF/VAFM/YMCA, it checks out just fine
remembered that not all engine codes cause the light always on, checked and I have code 6.
none of those make sense except ecu. gonna clear the code and see if it comes back
Well, one thing you can check is your IACV or Aux Air Valve. Without that working, you won't have a proper cold idle, I know I never did until I investigated and found mine was broken. There is a simple on vehicle check where you pinch the air hose going from IACV to TB when cold to see if idle changes/stumbles. If it stumbles, then obviously the valve is open. Then you let the engine warm up and pinch the hose, this time the idle should not change. Or if you are feeling ambitious, you can just pull it off there and check it. When I got a replacement (used) I put it in the freezer and saw the valve open, then I let it warm up and saw the valve close. Without this valve working, then I'd expect odd idle behavior depending on the ambient temperature. I live in FL where it is hardly ever below 70 degrees, but what I noticed is that I had to adjust my idle screw enough so that the engine would run when "cold" and then that results in a slightly high idle when engine is warm. If I lowered it at warm to under 1k, it didn't hardly want to idle when cold. With the replacement IACV, I now have a true cold idle and a normal warm idle.
Edit: I wanted to add that you should also check that all your temp sender and your cold start timer are working and clean. There are some resistance values vs temperature in the FSM that you can check, and of course a good cleaning with a wire brush will do wonders. I believe I had a weird occasional check engine light many years ago when I first got the truck, as part of some maintenance, I noticed the connector was broken off my temp sender for the ECU. So I replaced it and that issue went away.
Well, one thing you can check is your IACV or Aux Air Valve. Without that working, you won't have a proper cold idle, I know I never did until I investigated and found mine was broken. There is a simple on vehicle check where you pinch the air hose going from IACV to TB when cold to see if idle changes/stumbles. If it stumbles, then obviously the valve is open. Then you let the engine warm up and pinch the hose, this time the idle should not change. Or if you are feeling ambitious, you can just pull it off there and check it. When I got a replacement (used) I put it in the freezer and saw the valve open, then I let it warm up and saw the valve close. Without this valve working, then I'd expect odd idle behavior depending on the ambient temperature. I live in FL where it is hardly ever below 70 degrees, but what I noticed is that I had to adjust my idle screw enough so that the engine would run when "cold" and then that results in a slightly high idle when engine is warm. If I lowered it at warm to under 1k, it didn't hardly want to idle when cold. With the replacement IACV, I now have a true cold idle and a normal warm idle.
Edit: I wanted to add that you should also check that all your temp sender and your cold start timer are working and clean. There are some resistance values vs temperature in the FSM that you can check, and of course a good cleaning with a wire brush will do wonders. I believe I had a weird occasional check engine light many years ago when I first got the truck, as part of some maintenance, I noticed the connector was broken off my temp sender for the ECU. So I replaced it and that issue went away.
Gah I forgot all about the iacv. I hadn't run across it in the fsm yet. Thanks!
I'll check that out, fingers crossed!
And I did the temp sender and csi timer cleaning a few weeks back. Didn't check resistances, i should do that.
you are indeed correct, hoping to make that mod this afternoon
In other news, the starting/running rough is driving me crazy. My idle is all over the place.
It's not the starter issue, something is causing my idle to be all over the place, especially when cold.
Once it was actually running under it's own power for a couple seconds, then died
sometimes sounds really lopey when cold
always takes the gas pedal to get it started, but when running, often blows white smoke and smells rich (not like antifreeze, thank goodness)
my check engine light will sometimes come on for a second or 2 after starting
One day I pulled in at home and it was idling at 500
sometimes at stop lights it idles at 1200
It seems like I'm getting not enough fuel when starting (throttle kick), and too much when running (smells rich)?
I soaked the engine bay in carb cleaner and couldn't find any vacuum leaks
it's not the idle adjust, new screw and oring
not the O2 sensor, that's fairly new
I thought MAF (or vafm or whatever it's called on the 22re) made a lot of sense and saw similar issues in another thread, but I pulled it this morning and the spring loaded door seems to move just fine. (need to check fsm for how to really check)
plugs are newish
rotor is newish
EGR system is long gone, so that's out of the picture
I'm running low on ideas
My 86 4Runner with 22re does something very similar. It idles low at start up and often needs a little gas to get going. Sometimes it dies. On occasion the CEL will come on for a few seconds. I do need to adjust my idle up as it hovers between 500-600 when warm. I assume my problem is the IAC or cold start injector. I haven't tested either.
My 86 4Runner with 22re does something very similar. It idles low at start up and often needs a little gas to get going. ... I assume my problem is the IAC or cold start injector. I haven't tested either.
Cold start injector only affects combustion while cranking.
However, for anything that seems temperature-dependent, I would just clean all temp sensors AND THEIR MOUNTING THREADS to bare shiny metal... [at least once every 25 years or so ] I did this and it fixed my hard cold starts and rough idle until warmed up issue (thread here).
Cleaning the iacv might do wonders. It's best to pull it (held to the bottom of the intake with 2x10mm bolts, iirc) but remember that it has 2 coolant hoses on the side.
Remove the 4 Phillips screws on the cover, carefully pry it off (unless you cut a new gasket you'll be reusing the old one) and if it's like mine it'll be gunked up and seized shut. I hit it with pb blaster and cleaned out with acetone. Test it in the freezer and let it warm back to room temp to see if it closes most of the way. I adjusted mine as wide open as it would go. I also smeared a thin coat of rtv on each side of the gasket to prevent a vacuum leak.
Now I have a healthy cold start idle that varies between 1200-1500 rpms depending on the outside temp. It lowers back to 750 rpm after the coil in the iacv warms up.
Cleaning the iacv might do wonders. It's best to pull it (held to the bottom of the intake with 2x10mm bolts, iirc) but remember that it has 2 coolant hoses on the side.
Remove the 4 Phillips screws on the cover, carefully pry it off (unless you cut a new gasket you'll be reusing the old one) and if it's like mine it'll be gunked up and seized shut. I hit it with pb blaster and cleaned out with acetone. Test it in the freezer and let it warm back to room temp to see if it closes most of the way. I adjusted mine as wide open as it would go. I also smeared a thin coat of rtv on each side of the gasket to prevent a vacuum leak.
Now I have a healthy cold start idle that varies between 1200-1500 rpms depending on the outside temp. It lowers back to 750 rpm after the coil in the iacv warms up.
this sounds good to me. My truck never idles up when cold. So far, anyway...i've only owned it since May. Everything else seems to be functioning correctly.
07-25-2017, 07:02 PM
