Yeah, It is cheaper to get rear discs. The only thing that you'll need to worry about is the parking brake..

When you do this conversion, you'll need to grind/enlarge the center hub so it will be able to sit flush with the backside of the rear axle shaft.

The spacers I'm referring to are the standard 1/4 wheel spacers. You'll need these because you're going to need to use straight axle wheel studs.

The SA rotor is on the backside of rear axle along with wheel spacer:

 

Wanted to give a quick update:

Completed drivers side door panel. Now I need to finish passenger side

 

Lookin great, man! Love that shot of the RED HOT caliper all ready to ROLL! lol.

 

Quick Update:

Was in LA the past week and did not get much done on the 4Runner. I was able to purchase new brake pads on all 4 corners and was able to get the brake lines bled... So as of now I have working brakes, but no parking brake... So I think my next project is going to be to install the crawl box and install parking brake.. or at least mock it up. Then work on getting a rear driveline...

 

subed, this things gonna be a monster

 

Thanks for the help I've been doing a lot of research and I think I found a way to use all new parts that are relatively cheap and a "free" "emergency" brake

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...ght=disc+brake

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...ght=free+brake

 

Wow, this is a fantastic build thread! Keep the photos and progress coming

 

Aww, man, ... you're in LA and don't let the CHEF KNOW? hahahaha. JK, ... hope you got out of here without probation and what not! lol.

 

I just received a PM regarding my rear disc brake brackets I found on Ebay. So here is the link to the ebay store

http://www.ebay.com/itm/TOYOTA-REAR-...2#ht_535wt_907

You can also Google them

The company is called J&M Custom Metal Fab

Here is a link to their site..

http://www.jmmetalfab.com/Automotive_Products.php

Also, as of now, the build is kind of stagnant because of lack of daylight and daylight savings time is just around the corner so I'll even have less time... I still need to install my Dual cases and fabricate my parking brake. Not sure when I'll have the time for it, as I need to rediscover my motivation to get this done...

Hope this info is of help to people.. Best of luck!!!

 

Also, ever since purchasing the 4Runner, I've been researching the 3.4 swap and all the things I need to do to get it BAR'd to be California SMOG legal.

So far, I have the 3.4 engine harness labeled, I have my 22re body harness labeled and know where all the wires go (read the 3.4 swap threads countless times). I've also made an Excel spreadsheet that will allow me to make the adapter to fit my 4Runner to the 3.4 engine. All I need is a couple of plugs, so I can make my harness adapter.. SO if you have any, PLEASE, PLEASE let me know.. The two plugs that are imperative to me building the harness is the IK2 body harness plug and the E5 plug that goes to the ECU. Without those plugs I cannot complete the swap.. Once I get those, I'll be able to share everything I have done for the swap. The adapter I plan on making will look like the harness adapter that DNTSDAD made for his (if anyone knows him on a personal level let him know, as I'm looking to source those plugs). Thanks

 

The guy I bought the harness from said the 3.4 harness is from a 99 Tacoma 3.4 5 spd MT.

Is there a way I can confirm this? The numbers on the harness (on a blue label) are: 82121-3D500C61

The numbers I have for the ECU are: 89661-04412 and 1752002830S

Thanks in advance..

Kyle

 

hell yea thats wassup nice build. where did you find the 3.4l at?

 

this is a cool build...
subscribed

 

I picked up the 3.4, the harness and the ECu off of the SF Craigslist back in April 2010.. Motor has 119K. still need to go through and change the timing belt and water pump.. plan on installing motor after august 2012..

 

you guys from the west coast have it made with all the yota parts. Here on the east most of the older yota are bring shipped to South America. They buy completed vehicles cut them up and ship the parts south.

But every cool build, i love your work............

 

Just to let you guys know. I have been working on the truck, although they are small, numerous tasks that needed to be done.

Brakes:

When I swapped to the 1-inch master cylinder and brake booster, the brake like switch was not able to be closed and the brake lights would stay on constantly and kill the battery. Additionally, the swapped parts had non-compatible plugs. I fixed that too.

On


The white plug is what I needed to adjust (just unplug, loosen nut, adjust switch, and re-tighten nut)


Off and no more dead battery


The plugs I swapped




SR5 Cluster:

When I initially bought the runner, the PO said the temp gauge was broken and when the truck overheated he didn't know. This was a real concern not having a working gauge so swapped the oil pressure gauge and temp gauge from another SR5 cluster. Also, when taking apart the cluster a found out how to adjust the tachometer without soldering in a resistor when doing the 3.4 swap. All you would need is a timing gun to know the rpm and adjust the white dial.

Swapping the temp gauge


Working gauge


The part where you adjust the tachometer


Leaking anti-freeze from blown head gasket


Additionally, when testing the new temp gauge and after knowing it works, I now know where the head gasket is blown on the 22RE (driver side, at the #4 cylinder). The runner runs pretty good with the occasional miss and oil is not emulsified. I have a couple of videos regarding questions I have and wanna show you guys to get your opinions.

I'm trying to post the video here

Video of engine running. Does it sound right?



Video of the exhaust. Can you guys hear the miss?


I'm not sure how accurate this would be, but I was told that if you hold a piece of paper against the exhaust, it should always blow out (never create a vacuum). In my next video, I'm holding paper currency next to exhaust and it blows out for awhile, but then it get sucked into the tailpipe. My question is what causes that? a miss, bad valves, do I need a new head, etc..

 

SR5 Cluster parts swap pic

 

i think that could be a bad valve...you should do a compression check and a cylinder leak down check.

 

How do You take the clear cover from the cluster without breaking it, is there a trick to it?

 

Maco, I was able to remove the bezel and then pulled the clear plastic from the black bezel..