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I set mine in room temp, verified operation by putting it in the freezer and letting it warm back up to room temp. I also had to widen mine as it didn't close enough after re warming. this is probably due to the bi metal weakening over time. Also gave it a good cleaning, mine was nasty
I set mine in room temp, verified operation by putting it in the freezer and letting it warm back up to room temp. I also had to widen mine as it didn't close enough after re warming. this is probably due to the bi metal weakening over time. Also gave it a good cleaning, mine was nasty
I also cleaned mine out real good, but what do you mean by widen? How so?
I have been intending to do an update on the 4Runner for a few weeks now- it should be the 1300 mile update, but I took a picture of the trip odometer at a thousand so I'm sticking with that.
I have been driving it daily without incident and it's been really cool gaining confidence in it. I have not fixed any of the aforementioned issues with the IACV as it has really been doing okay. I opened up the front of the valve and shot a little lubricant in there and nine times out of ten it has no issues. It's on my list, but not a priority.
I am very fortunate that there haven't been any problems as this has been a wildly busy spring. My wife and I decided to expand our business and I've spent the last couple months doing the build-out in the new space. All very exciting but exhausting.
Here's a little peek:
I have been trying (without luck) to convince my wife to start selling truck parts...
There are a couple spots on the truck that are giving away my amateur body work, most notably a spot on the tail gate:
The Bondo cracked and it looks like crap, but it doesn't seem to be getting worse. Add it to the list.
I need to do the lift on the bracket for the LSPV- I don't feel like my rear brakes are doing as much as they should be. It's on the list.
And here are a few pictures:
I'm sure once things calm down a bit I'll have time to spend with the 4Runner and do some of the items on the list. For right now I'm just using it for work and having fun driving it.
Joe - truck still lookin good man. We are gearing up to head up to Beech Mtn...leaving here Thursday June 22nd. I'm still planning a Richland Rd run with some guys from MUD and just some fire road stuff with another guy from MUD. Where's a good local spot for watching fireworks on the 4th?
Even before I got the 4Runner back on the road I found myself trolling Craigslist for old Toyotas. When I was a kid I loved the early Toyota models and last week I got one:
One day back in 1987, the same year my beloved 4Runner was manufactured, someone parked a 1969 Corona in a barn just outside of Greenville, South Carolina and there it sat until this summer. After 30 years of sitting I took it back on the road (on a trailer of course) and brought it to its new home in Boone.
It is a 1969 Toyota Corona RT-52 two-door coupe with the 4 cylinder 3R-C motor, Autoglide automatic transmission and either 212K or 112K miles on the clock, likely the former. It has a good deal of body rust but the undercarriage is oh-so clean! It is complete! Every badge, every piece of trim, all the glass, everything is there. It will need to be brought back from the dead, for sure, but after tackling the 4Runner I am feeling up to the challenge.
Here are some pictures:
And the engine:
I really love Yotatech but I realize it is not really the appropriate forum for posting a build on this car. I've been researching other forums, particularly the TORC forum which is really primarily pre-80's Toyotas, but they don't have a "build" section, so to speak. If anyone knows of a good forum for these older Toyotas I'd love any suggestions.
And, not to make y'all think I've forgotten about the runner, I have a big project day lined up this Friday. It's getting a little work- I picked up an idle air control valve, tested and functioning properly, that I'll be installing, another valve adjustment, a front brake caliper and I'm going to take some measurements on my pinion angle. I've been chasing a vibration in the rear end that I'm pretty sure is due to mis-matched angles from the transfer output to the pinion. Looks like some axle shims are in my future. I have other things I want to fix/adjust on the runner as time allows, but I am still driving it daily without any problems.
Whoo!!
Joe, awesome find, I love that little Corona. I would love to follow your build so please post the link if it ends up somewhere other than YT. Great to hear the 4runner is getting some love as well.
I don't think I have posted in your thread but I have been following your 4Runner build and have enjoyed reading your progress all the way to now. I am glad it's doing well!
That Corona is really cool! Eventually I want a whole fleet of old Toyotas, both cars and trucks.
I would love to see the build thread on this car. Those tires look brand new!
I would also love to see a build on that Corona. I have a friend who had a '69 I think, in white. The interior was really nice and the seats were either leather or a great imitation. I like that oil cap.
Funny you mention those dang tires. Being flat like that makes the car virtually impossible to move. We loaded it on the trailer with forks on a bobcat loader. Very carefully. To get it off the trailer I had to tie a strap to the rear end and the other end to a tree. Then I pulled the trailer out from under the car- again, very carefully. Did the trick though. Today I had delivered a set of 155/80/R13s from Walmart. $120 for all four tires delivered to my door.
Originally Posted by Nervo19
I like that oil cap.
It's the first thing I noticed, too. I found a guy not too far from me that specializes in 1964-1970 Coronas. Hoping he'll be a good resource for parts.
Originally Posted by space-junk
coronas are sweet. buddy of mine has one. its slightly modded.
Slightly, eh? Quite a ride! I love that color. My wife wants me to paint it that color.
So yes, thanks all, I'll let you know when I get a build started. Like I said, I really like this Yotatech community so I'd like to just stay here, thanks for the suggestion Jake.
We'll see. I'm figuring that it'll be a while before I really get to tear into this thing. I'm in the research phase right now. I found three Toyota FSMs for the car- one for the engine, one for the chassis and one for the body. Really great resource, all the specs are there, exploded views on everything, SWEET!
I had a productive day yesterday working out some kinks on the 4Runner.
The motor just turned 2500 miles so I did another valve adjustment. Set everything hot and I still have some noisy-ass valves. I've had several other 22re motors and I don't think any were as chattery as this one. I've read a lot where folks will set theirs at .07 on the intake side and .11 exhaust. I'm considering it now. Any thoughts?
I have also been playing with deleting some vacuum lines. I removed all the AC components, including the idle-up for the AC, so while I was in there tinkering yesterday I pulled the idle-up for the power steering to see if it made any difference. It did not so pulled the lines and capped the ins and outs.
Then I moved on to the brake caliper on the driver side. It's been sticking and grabbing a bit recently so I went ahead and changed it out and did the front pads on both sides.
Next, I finally got the IACV swapped out. This is one I've been really wanting to do as I believe it's just not been functioning correctly. Unbolting it from the intake made it relatively easy to move the coolant lines and wiring harness plug from the old to the new without losing too much coolant. Then the air lines and fired it up... Instantly the idle was ~1000. As it warmed up it settled in right about 700. Seems to be working!
The next few starts throughout the day were with the motor still a bit warm. It wasn't until this morning after a pretty cool night that I got to try again and once again it had a higher idle. So I'm optomistic that I've finally got that issue worked out.
A buddy of mine made it over around the time I had that done and he helped me by sitting up front and working the brake pedal and clutch. I got a few bubbles out of the clutch slave and a few bubbles out of the bleeder valve on the LSPV. Clutch feels much firmer and so do the brakes.
Checked the diff fluid and transmission fluid while I was under there. My pinion seal leaks so I tried to change that out, too. However I could not get the dang lock on the nut opened to turn it. Rather than get frustrated I moved on with the intention of getting back to it, which I never did. So I still need to replace that pinion seal. This leads me to another issue I've been chasing: a relatively slight, but noticeable vibration in the rear end, most pronounced around ~22 mph. I've ruled out tire balance, drive shaft balance, the yokes are aligned, good u-joints and everything pretty newly serviced. I'm now figuring it's pinion angle. So I measured and now know that I have about a 2-3 degree difference between the pinion and transfer output. Based on conversations with local guys and some of you all here on Yotatech, that's enough to get a bit of vibration, so I need to order some axle shims and see if that doesn't solve the problem.
For months now I have been kicking myself for not installing the roll bar before I put the top on, so my last project for the day was taking the top off and installing that roll bar!
No rain in the forecast this weekend so we're going topless!
All in all a busy day and I still have more I want to do, but it feels tighter and without the top weighing it down the dang thing MOVES!
I don't recall if you have a stock-profile camshaft, but if not you need to set a different valve lash than the stock .008" and .012".
I've seen specs range from a more open intake side and tighter exhaust to both sides tighter than stock, so make sure you know which camshaft profile you have before changing those values.
I don't recall if you have a stock-profile camshaft, but if not you need to set a different valve lash than the stock .008" and .012".
Thanks for the info- the cam is stock. These things are just noisy as crap. I had a '93 pickup with a 22re and it sounded like a sewing machine- I don't know why that motor was so quiet.
I don't feel like it's anything to worry about, just irritating.
I hear that. Are your valve adjuster screws new? If adjusted often, old ones can get flat spots in odd patterns along their edge where they contact the valve stem. My old ones were like this and I was starting to get really frustrated with the difficultly of setting the lash right. New ones solved the problem. I reused the nuts cause they looked fine.
Another tip that might help you is that you want a good amount of drag on the feeler gauge. So much that the next size bigger (.009" on the intake side) won't fit no matter how much you try to force it. That helped me anyway.
Man, thanks for talking through this with me- the head is all new. The head, cam, rockers, valves, etc. all have 2500 miles on them. I feel like I set it tight- I left the gauge in there and tightened it down on the feeler gauge until there was plenty of drag. I was thinking about setting them on the tight side as I did the adjustment.
In my research I found another possible source of this- which I sincerely hope isn't the issue. The bolts that hold the backing plate to the block, between the motor and the transmission bell housing, have low profile heads on them to allow clearance for the flywheel. What if I used the wrong bolts and the flywheel is just grazing the heads on those bolts? Would that be painfully obvious? It sounds like the valves. I climbed under the truck and got up as close to the back of the motor as I could and it didn't sound like it was in the bell housing.
This seems unlikely to me, but I'd love to hear from anyone that has experienced this issue with using the wrong bolts and getting contact from the flywheel.
03-09-2017, 12:19 PM
