JDs 86' 4Runner DLX Restoration/Build
#21
Here is a shot of the cabinets and sub. I keep knocking the sub loose, so that is going to be changed. I think I will add onto the right cabinet and use the mounting holes for the loops on the bed to help secure it.
#23
Nice looking tan interior! So what's the problem with the vent? Don't you already have the dash out so you can access the vent? If not here are some great instructions on getting the dash removed.
From a member on here (Rds)
Hey,
technically you need to remove the far passenger vent to get to a bolt, but the vent is put in after the dash goes in, and held by 4 clips. I really cant see anyway to get these vents out cleanly from the front.. so I wouldn't even attempt it.
Luckily you can get around it though!
- remove the 6 or so screws along the edge above the glovebox and HVAC controls
- remove the plastic pod around the cluster. is held with another 4 or so screws.
- remove the cover off the altimeter. 2 screws
- open the glovebox and unhook the dust sheet thing (held with 3 clips).
The dash pad at this point will still have all the vents and altimeter attached.
- unbolt one nut on the edge closest to the driver, that was under the cluster cover/pod thing.
- look up under the dash behind the centre of the glovebox; there will be a small length of air-vent plumbing slipped to the pipework, and held with one screw. remove this to access the second nut up under the dash. This little section of vent plumbing is here for this exact reason.
- the dash is now held on with only one more bolt on the far passenger side (behind the vent!) and two clips (will slide off when pulled away).
Now carefully swing the dash around on this last bolt, so you can get to the bolt that was behind the vent.
- unplug the altimeter when you lift the dash up. the whole dash pad assembly will now be free.
Done.
Should take no more than half an hour or so. definitely easier than some cars!
Good luck!
From a member on here (Rds)
Hey,
technically you need to remove the far passenger vent to get to a bolt, but the vent is put in after the dash goes in, and held by 4 clips. I really cant see anyway to get these vents out cleanly from the front.. so I wouldn't even attempt it.
Luckily you can get around it though!
- remove the 6 or so screws along the edge above the glovebox and HVAC controls
- remove the plastic pod around the cluster. is held with another 4 or so screws.
- remove the cover off the altimeter. 2 screws
- open the glovebox and unhook the dust sheet thing (held with 3 clips).
The dash pad at this point will still have all the vents and altimeter attached.
- unbolt one nut on the edge closest to the driver, that was under the cluster cover/pod thing.
- look up under the dash behind the centre of the glovebox; there will be a small length of air-vent plumbing slipped to the pipework, and held with one screw. remove this to access the second nut up under the dash. This little section of vent plumbing is here for this exact reason.
- the dash is now held on with only one more bolt on the far passenger side (behind the vent!) and two clips (will slide off when pulled away).
Now carefully swing the dash around on this last bolt, so you can get to the bolt that was behind the vent.
- unplug the altimeter when you lift the dash up. the whole dash pad assembly will now be free.
Done.
Should take no more than half an hour or so. definitely easier than some cars!
Good luck!
#24
Nice looking tan interior! So what's the problem with the vent? Don't you already have the dash out so you can access the vent? If not here are some great instructions on getting the dash removed.
From a member on here (Rds)
Hey,
technically you need to remove the far passenger vent to get to a bolt, but the vent is put in after the dash goes in, and held by 4 clips. I really cant see anyway to get these vents out cleanly from the front.. so I wouldn't even attempt it.
Luckily you can get around it though!
...
From a member on here (Rds)
Hey,
technically you need to remove the far passenger vent to get to a bolt, but the vent is put in after the dash goes in, and held by 4 clips. I really cant see anyway to get these vents out cleanly from the front.. so I wouldn't even attempt it.
Luckily you can get around it though!
...
Cheers to you both!!
#25
#27
Your rear seat doesn't appear to me to be factory but still looks great. I like how it turned out. Your speaker boxes look great as well.
I will eventually give that a try and see if I can get the dash out without pulling the vent. Thanks for the info.
I will eventually give that a try and see if I can get the dash out without pulling the vent. Thanks for the info.
#28
That's the rear seat that came with my truck Terry. It's being removed and replaced with the split rear from my 84.
#29
I like the boxes! Maybe oneday I'll see you running around town, you live up by me. Post pics of the scoobie.
#31
Well yesterday sucked. First accident in 19 years of driving. Thankfully the recently installed rock armor took the brunt of it. The rear axle was dislodged and passenger leaf bolt was sheared off. Fabbed something up to get all the leafs back in line and realigned the rear today. All in all I think the rig is gonna be ok.
#36
Thanks! I was making a left turn through an intersection and a guy in the southbound lane hit my passenger side. Thankfully I'm higher than most vehicles especially cars. The BMW smashed into my rock slider and then knocked my axle out of place. No body damage at all. It's amazing how strong that armor is haha.
Last edited by tonkatruck_79; Jan 31, 2015 at 09:24 AM.
#37
Cool sounds good, I will do. I'm trying to get a group of five or so together for a weekend trip. I have a buddy with a lifted Legacy wagon. Thing is pretty sweet
#39
Right?! I thought the same. Nah the rear axle seems fine. The leaf suffered the most. Had to bend the shackles straight and put a new stud through the leaf spring.






