jason in tn

Thanks cyberhorn I'm starting to feel like I might actually get to drive it full time again in the not to distant future I know I still have a ton of work to do but its feeling more complete even more so then when I bought it. Its been a long time to get it to this point but I think it will all be worth it when I can walk out climb in a drive it as one of my regular vehicles again. Thanks for checking in man.

Cyberhorn The Dragon

no problem, yeah next month if it kills me im getting the rering kit for mine so i can send the head off to be boiled an let the shop lap the valves put on the new stem seals (part oif the kit) an put it back together as they charge the same for it

wish i could find anyone whos used yotashop.com the prices there seem almost too good to be true id like to get the rvtype 1 cam

jason in tn

Can't help ya with yotashop.com I do have an RV came in mine but its from LCE and I haven't drove it enough to tell you anything about it lol. Good luck on getting your parts tho.

Cyberhorn The Dragon

thanks :-)

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Hey, Jason, .............I'ma show you and get a BETTER 3rd Gen 4Runner than yours for 150$~!!!!!!!!!!!!!! >>>>>>>

http://losangeles.craigslist.org/sfv...293542799.html

OH, you thought I was joking on the price, right? hehehehe. SUP DUDE? Traveling mercies! Say hi to Reggie for me, k? TTYSOON, guys.

jason in tn

Hmmm it can only get better from there lol, that would be quite a project to tie into. Thanks again for the parts pick up man I'm truly great full. Shoot me a PM or txt or call what ever on the rest of the stuff I didn't mean to sound short in my earlier post. Regina says hi back.

jason in tn

no updates, for as much as I want to get to work on this we have been down to the 97 as our only vehicle becouse my pick up has been down, I spent all weekend in the shop trying to get it figured out and its still not fixed hopfully the next time Im home I can get back on the runner.

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

I found a pic of Mark dash where I intend to extend my rear window switch like we were talking about recently. There is another available plug on the left hand side. Marks/electric antenna switch sets in one of them which we dont have to worry about,lol.Grrr...

RAD4Runner

Terry,
That's exactly where I will put my rear window lock switch. I'll put Up/Down switch in punch-out opening to left of it- closer to driver side.
Then I'll put rear wiper switch in vacant dash space forward of wiper lever.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

RAD, .... why are you moving your 3 rear window related switches away from the console? That's as close to the driver as you can get. Are you missing that portion of the console maybe??? >>>>>>

RAD4Runner

Yota did poor human factors/ergonomics engineering placing those switches there, when there is available space on dash (trying to be cool/unique maybe?). If truck had cup holders, or if one improvises and puts cupholder near the console, guess where driver would spill the coffee.

Once, I move those switches, I'll have prime real estate for a cup holder - yeey!

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

I like my 99C cupholder! >>>



Also have one of those nifty door pocket ones, hehe... BUT, I DO like the cup holders on the "Tuffy" consoles.... Those are what I'd do if I didn't mind spending HUNDREDS on a console, haha.. They have cupholders for the back, too. They lock SECURELY, too... love that.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Also, I've thought about placing the switches in the front of the console where the carpet is in the picture above, removing the portion of the console where the switches and pocket are,... and putting a CUPHOLDER there... BUT, in the end.. I like to have it the way it is... it works for me.

Also, I saw a guy who did a flip cover for keeping the switches safe. He screwed it inthe side of the console runner.

Cyberhorn The Dragon

eventually we'll get to see how my cupholder will work it will go in the pocket under the radio

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

The reason I want to move mine is to keep spills away from the switches and maybe cut down on dust getting into them and possibly a cupholder.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

I LOVE that one Dragon has.... I just drive alone 99% of the time... So I figure... 99C one works pretty good! lol.... Actually, it works FLAWLESSLY, and it still allows for someone to sit in the passenger seat and not even be bothered by it... unless they're big like me! hahah. But WOW, those are REALLY cool, Dragon! Can't wait to see it workin!

RAD4Runner

I'm on the same page as Terry. After the Zuk, the custom console cupholder a la Bassmastry101's

BTW, Chef, Yes the console switches do light up I just never minded them until we noticed those 2 extra wires on the switch. - LOL!

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

So RAD, ... am I right in assuming one of the extra 2 wires of 5 is for the Light... the other is for the 'safety lock feature'? On back of the switch, the RED w/ Blue Stripe "R-L" should be to the "Back Window Limit Switch".... The other is GREEN w/Blue stripe, "G-L"... Don't see that anywhere on the diagram... So I would GUESS that's the light. Did you test it and confirm that? Just curious.

RAD4Runner

Hi Chef, Both extra wires are for the light. The safety interlocks are wired directly into the rear window control relay and the relay takes care of them internally.
For the rear window controls, I would not use the switch lights because:[LIST][*]If you wire them directly to dome light power circuit, they would stay on and drain your battery.[*]If you wire them to tail light or ignition, that would require that you leave tail lights OR ignition on in order to use those switch lights.
Too much trouble/work/hardware/energy consumption for what they're worth. Unless of course you really like a "Cadillacish" truck - LOL!

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Hahaha... NO, I hear ya... I only thought the lights would be a good idea, tied into the window lock or something... cuz then, at night in the pitch black, I could easily see the switch and flip the lock switch, allowing the other to operate, then open the window to get out without having to turn any other lights on... BUT, you're absolutely right... And at this point, I just want to get them installed hahaha.... BUT, once more, I would like to get the paneling in at the same time.. So I'm checking that out today.

Homedepot has 4x6 Sheets of 1/4" thick Birch and Pine and even Maple Plywood for pretty reasonable... 4x6ft should be plenty for both sides... 2x4ft max or so from rear to back of back seats... which is all the paneling I'm changing. Leaving the back seat paneling alone. It's pristine and I don't really want to mess with it. I might even go gray vinyl on the rear over some padded plywood... Just to keep that stock look but then have TONS more strength. And, I will reinforce the 10" JL Sub with a couple tying in bolts and lock nuts to those vertical strips of metal that the panel mounts to in spots, ya know? I have an idea on how to do that... AND, just thought vinyl would be really easy to clean up and stuff... Plus, with the heat/sound insulation in the panels... I think that would suffice for a sort of 'BOX' effect. Just add a lil strip of wood a few inches to the side of the sub and maybe add a portal.... Although, I'm not sure my sub box has a portal. We'll see.

PS> The reason I want to use those 2nd Gen rear wiper cover dome lights? They have built in "DOOR/OFF/ON" feature... This would allow me to wire them directly to where I'm wiring the dome light... and then I'd have all 3 come on with the door "OPEN".... OR, be able to still individually turn them off or "ON", ya know what I mean?