Nice! I hear ya on the "basement is COOL, upstairs in the driveway ....not so much!" hahaha.

Just be careful getting up from seated position... you'll be fine! Excited for ya... gonna be a nice improvement, Ian!

 

Ian, at first I thought that the rear disconnect was a brake....never seen one. But it's a great idea for towing the vehicle without a trailer..or off road....thanks for the pics..

 

Furniture dolley.....why didn't I think of that today when dropping my tranny.....tell me now haha anyways nice find! Even if I don't understand the whole setup....yet.

 

just found out what the 2 sensors are:

reverse:


4wd:


i took them out last night and shifted, seeing what would activate them. also moved the 4wd switch back to the rear case, where the 4wd select is

 

not many updates while waiting for parts. most should be coming monday or tuesday, so i know i won't have it ready for at least a week or so. i've been talking with tom woods on getting the correct drivelines. i think i'lll have to make my rear shaft a single piece to be able to do it cheap-ish. the front is no problem. i can just send it off to be lengthened, no problem.

that's all for now...

 

What do you mean, a single shaft? No slip yoke? Is that possible?

 

pics from 4x4 wire

i don't know about any other models, but at least the 89-95 ext-cabs have a 2-piece driveshaft with a carrier bearing in the middle:



the center of the shaft has a cv joint and bearing



tom said those need to be balanced as one unit, and he doesn't have the stuff to do it with. so one option is to replace the whole thing with a single shaft



installed



link to the site:
http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/tech/driveshaft/

 

Ok makes sense. Just find a local driveshaft shop. I had one made when I did the 5spd conversion, cheaper then lengthening mine because of the metric tube used, and I had 240k on the u joints. They were replaced with spicers, very reliable/cheap and easy to find at any parts store.

 

WOW, Dude! Very Nice! 1st an e-locker & now this!? An r151f with double t-cases & disconnect, AWSOME! I'm loving this build, keep it up man! (Those tranies are super rare, Iv'e only seen 1 in person! It was at a junkjard & he was asking way too much! It kinda hurt to see it sitting there in the middle of the yard exposed to the elements.)

 

s-lancer: thanks. it's actually half upgrade, half replacement after my w56 (stock) decided to crap out. i did pay more than i wanted to, but my options here are a bit limited.

rb: if i knew how to find something local, i would. but i don't, so any help on how to find a shop, or even the name of yours, would speed up this process. with parts coming monday, i should be able to get a bit of work done

 

rory just got back to me about the shifters, sounds like he's got it nearly ready to ship out. can't wait to see this thing

 

WOOT, getting close... SUUUUWEET!

I also just thought..., .... if you went to a 1UZ one day... you'd be ready with this trans I'm not saying you're planning on a motor swap at all, let alone any time soon.. But I've read that THAT'S THE TRANS you want if you're gonna go there! hehe.

Very exciting, Ian.... I sure wish I could find one for a reasonable price... But the cheapest I've seen lately, ...850$ used/Not sure on the miles/NO guarantees. And doesn't have all that fancy stuff you got! hahaha.

 

pics from this evening will be shown as soon as they upload from my phone. i swear, i gotta get a new camera

 

pics

short-shifter kit, minus the 4 main bolts... grr...



the previous owner was nice enough to install a marlin shifter seat



"installed" for now. just waiting on the bolts... and waiting... and waiting...





and the tip of the new short-shifter. i had to grind and hammer the spacers a bunch to get them to fit. lce has some nice stuff, i just wish it all fit and came with all the parts



got my oem parts last night, so i was able to attach the bellhousing





and the bottom plug



also managed to strip about a half-inch of this hole. dagnabit. sooo, new bolt and a tap are on the way



finally starting to look like a transmission. i won't get the parts in time to mount it up this weekend, so it looks like another week yet.



and still waiting... and waiting... dam i hate waiting...

 

What are you doing for a cross member

 

that... is an excellent question. i have a few options

-see if the stock one will fit. if not, modify it so it will
-see if the one that's on there now will clear the torsion bar mounts and exhaust
-make one from scratch

since it doesn't look like i'll be going to the rc toyota takeover, i think i'll be spending that weekend working on that. as for a temporary solution (for measuring driveshaft lengths, checking clearances, etc) i'm going to bolt the stock crossmember to the trans to keep it in the right spot.

what did you make yours out of? (thickness)

 

hmmm, what trans do you have now in the truck, R150?
I made my crossmember from 3/8"x4" flat-bar stock. might be overkill, but that's what i had laying around.

 

i got some 1/4" x 6" in my basement, but no way to cut it other than my 4.5 grinder and cut-off wheels. though i'm sure it'd work all right.

w56-e. the r150 and 151 are almost identical (you have the r150, right?) in terms of outer dimensions. i like the way you did yours, half using the stock mount and half fabbing. i might use the current "tubular" support and fab up brackets to mount to the frame

 

I'd measure your w56 from engine block to trans mount, and compare that number to your new tranny combo before you try to figure out how to make the cross-member. I am using an R1FA transfer case, and couldn't get three of the cross-members to fit if i used the chain driven t-case that would be an issue.... cross-members i had: 88 v6 Auto, 87 22re M/T, or 93 V6 M/T...which is why i made my own.
I like the idea of using the rear mount like you already have, and making new brackets for the frame should be easy if they don't hit the e-brake mechanism, or fuel tank. i am pretty sure running dual cases it will clear the sway bar mounts. Plus you could easily make a skid for the t-case/trans like the FROR. Some folks don't like a skid on the trans because it could potentially damage the mounts, but that is only if you plan to use the skid plate for serious abuse.
The only issue i have read about running a t-case x-member like the FROR is bolts coming loose on the t-case, and the reason for this is the dissimilar material used as bushings...poly rear...rubber motor mounts...they react differently to vibration and torque. But this is what i have read, no FHE. It would be easy enough to swap out the rear bushings for some rubber.

 

really, though, i'm not going to worry about it until i get the whole transmission bolted to the engine. i have the space and time to let the project sit for a day or two while i figure things out.