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irab88's 1993 PickUp Build-Up Thread

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Old Feb 14, 2011 | 09:51 AM
  #381  
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i'll take a closer look at my oil filter the next time i do a change (in a month or so)

i listened to my engine yesterday after doing my oil, and noticed it stuttering every now-and-then. i'm going to swap out the wires and plugs next weekend and look at the distributor/cap. it's easy to listen to your engine with an exhaust leak... (oh yeah, i need to take care of that, too)

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Old Feb 15, 2011 | 09:55 AM
  #382  
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called up the local tire shop today, and got a quote for an alignment and to swap out that bad rim. the total came out to $89.95. when the guy told me over the phone, i thought he was saying the year-range for my truck (89-95)

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Old Feb 15, 2011 | 10:27 AM
  #383  
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hahahaha
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Old Feb 15, 2011 | 10:31 AM
  #384  
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Originally Posted by irab88
called up the local tire shop today, and got a quote for an alignment and to swap out that bad rim. the total came out to $89.95. when the guy told me over the phone, i thought he was saying the year-range for my truck (89-95)

that right there belongs in another thread. lmao.
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Old Feb 15, 2011 | 12:09 PM
  #385  
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Hahaha thats too funny Ian.
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Old Feb 15, 2011 | 12:22 PM
  #386  
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yeah, there was a moment of confusion

-"for the alignment? 89-95"
-"yep. how much?"
-"89-95. for an alignment"
-"yes, that's right. mine's a 93. now how much is the alignment?"

...or something like that...
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Old Feb 16, 2011 | 07:21 AM
  #387  
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hey guys... anyone know about winches?
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Old Feb 16, 2011 | 07:24 AM
  #388  
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heh nope, I wish I did though, there is a guy in my area selling a warn m8000 for $100 with brand new synthetic line but it needs all 4 solenoids.
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Old Feb 16, 2011 | 07:51 AM
  #389  
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xxx, really...got a link? looks like solenoids from warn are in the 55$ range.
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Old Feb 16, 2011 | 08:18 AM
  #390  
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thats from warn, I found sets of two for like $60 a set of two.

just checked the link from CL, and author deleted it, I know he said he had someone else yesterday to come by an look at it and it it spun without the sol's he was gonna take it, so I am gonna assume it's gone already.
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Old Feb 16, 2011 | 08:42 AM
  #391  
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i'm going to hold off getting my winch. i just looked online, and read travis' thread about the xrc8, and found that it's worth it to get it new with the warranty, cover, and free shipping

of course, i'd need a winch bumper. this one looks sweet, but i'd make my own if i had the resources
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Old Feb 16, 2011 | 10:02 AM
  #392  
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thanks for the update
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Old Feb 16, 2011 | 12:40 PM
  #393  
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ok, so i tested my whole alternator/battery set-up with a voltmeter (all with the engine running and at opperating temp)

across the terminals, alternator connected to the battery: 14.34v
across the alternator leads, battery disconnected: 14.52 to 14.97v (fluxuated with rpm)
across the battery terminals, alternator disconnected: 13.10v

i'll do some math and see if i can'tfigure some stuff out
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Old Feb 16, 2011 | 01:10 PM
  #394  
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Irab88,
I had to do some tremendous repairs to my 93 bed also. Both sides for me. Your best bet would be paint as small as panel possible where you repaired it or replace the whole panel ( costly) and paint the whole truck because its very hard to match 18 year old paint. And trust me its soooo hard to find a decent deal on a whole toyota bed.
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Old Feb 16, 2011 | 01:16 PM
  #395  
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I think the real test is measuring the amps, and then amp load/draw. I could be wrong about all this FYI.
I know that things like my Efan can draw upwArds of 65amps at start, but the load levels out to below 20amps once running. I know this because I have the relays that were attached directly to the fan and they are rated at 20amps, but relays can (check the rating) withstand a higher initial amp draw, just not sustained.
Lights, are constant draw of course, but radio(if you have a system) a/c fan, OBA... Figure out what amp draw you have and start up draw for some accessories.
That may help you figure out what size alternator you need.
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Old Feb 16, 2011 | 01:33 PM
  #396  
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Ian the first thing you must do is check the battery voltage with engine not running should be 12.6 volts if not charge battery . then with engine running 14.6 is ideal too high will cook battery too low will not charge it . do not disconnect battery while engine is running not good practice on modern vehicles (that is old school like me) you can create problems.
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Old Feb 16, 2011 | 03:24 PM
  #397  
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Originally Posted by RBX
I think the real test is measuring the amps, and then amp load/draw. I could be wrong about all this FYI...

... Figure out what amp draw you have and start up draw for some accessories.
That may help you figure out what size alternator you need.
yep, that's exactly what i need to do. i just need to get my hands on a clamp-type ammeter. i think i'm drawing close to 40 with ligts on at night, and 50ish with everything on. i'll post my findings once i find that one piece of equipment...

this weekend i'll be swapping out spark plugs and wires (denso all the way) and putting the new rim on the spare tire
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Old Feb 17, 2011 | 08:21 AM
  #398  
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daggon ups... well, i'm not getting my plugs 'til next week. crud i am, however, picking up 2more rims to make a matching set!
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Old Feb 17, 2011 | 09:44 AM
  #399  
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From: Bloodymore
Careful what you say about the brown Santa...he's watching ALL year...haha
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Old Feb 17, 2011 | 10:01 AM
  #400  
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i hope he's watching! i'm fed up with ups. in my view, they make their money from businesses, so they have poor quality for individuals. i've had 2 or 3 packages (and contents) damaged, and a few friends have had stuff gone "missing" (stolen)

usps, however, is awesome. they usually ship the earliest day specified (e.g. 2nd day for 2-5 day shipping), and a few times it's been the next day! super shipping at it's finest. and relatively cheap, too
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