GreenYoda's 1995 4Runner Build-Up Thread
#143
im no expert, but at least I can take good pics
#144
This is going to be my first fix on anything major for a vehicle. We have the same rig but mine still has IFS. I imagine the setup process will still be similar up front. I think I'll get 5.29 as well si I can go up from my 33's to 35's no worries.
#145
why stick with IFS? SAS ftw
a leaf setup is pretty easy
#146
Not sure what my plan it is yet and I don't know what I'm doing. I'd rather not pay for a build on what I can eventually learn myself.
I'd also rather not pay for something that I would eventually want to replace. This is my DD as well as a toy so I would like to retain some ride quality. I also want to do some overlanding and want decent hwy comfort. Coil over are better for that and IFS is better than that again. So a coil over would give me the best as a wheeler and a compromise for hwy that leafs wouldn't.
For now I also live in Yellowknife and my next prospect move will be to Saskatoon. Neither have big mountains for me to wheel so IFS can handle whatever I throw at it for now.
Not saying I don't want to SAS but it's not the top of the priority list. Gears and locker first. Then rust removal from the body and surface frame rust. I'll give it the Rustoleum treatment! I can learn some basics from making it look good.
Get rid of the carpet and line the interior with some sort of bed liner. Muskeet bog mud smells like manure and so does the truck carpet for weeks after wheeling.
I plan on creating my own thread for advice when I start because I don't really know where to start. Looking forward to it and will begin over the next couple months. My upcoming job is two weeks on two off on site so I'll have time to have a good shot at a restore/build.
I'd also rather not pay for something that I would eventually want to replace. This is my DD as well as a toy so I would like to retain some ride quality. I also want to do some overlanding and want decent hwy comfort. Coil over are better for that and IFS is better than that again. So a coil over would give me the best as a wheeler and a compromise for hwy that leafs wouldn't.
For now I also live in Yellowknife and my next prospect move will be to Saskatoon. Neither have big mountains for me to wheel so IFS can handle whatever I throw at it for now.
Not saying I don't want to SAS but it's not the top of the priority list. Gears and locker first. Then rust removal from the body and surface frame rust. I'll give it the Rustoleum treatment! I can learn some basics from making it look good.
Get rid of the carpet and line the interior with some sort of bed liner. Muskeet bog mud smells like manure and so does the truck carpet for weeks after wheeling.
I plan on creating my own thread for advice when I start because I don't really know where to start. Looking forward to it and will begin over the next couple months. My upcoming job is two weeks on two off on site so I'll have time to have a good shot at a restore/build.
#147
Well, one step forward, 2 steps back...
the 3rd member in the front is welded (I purchased it for $20 from a friend cause the 85 axle I had was missing a 3rd member)
well, the carrier is ˟˟˟˟ed.
now I gotta find out where I can get a carrier (or a whole v6 3rd member) on a saturday in west MI.
the 3rd member in the front is welded (I purchased it for $20 from a friend cause the 85 axle I had was missing a 3rd member)
well, the carrier is ˟˟˟˟ed.
now I gotta find out where I can get a carrier (or a whole v6 3rd member) on a saturday in west MI.
#149
trying to find one that might have what I need in stock.
there is one that has an 02 4runner v6 that they are parting out... no info on if it has an e-locker or not (I don't want to spend extra on ˟˟˟˟ I don't need)
they open at 9 am tomorrow, I will be their first caller
there is one that has an 02 4runner v6 that they are parting out... no info on if it has an e-locker or not (I don't want to spend extra on ˟˟˟˟ I don't need)
they open at 9 am tomorrow, I will be their first caller
#150
Did the 3rd Gens have E-lockers up front as well? I didn't know that the 2nd and 3rd Gen diffs where interchangeable especially after an SAS like you've done.
Are the front 3rd gears 7.5" the same as the IFS? It will be nice to know that when I do an SAS the gears I have to buy soon will be able to reused.
Sorry that I'm using your issues and thread in general as a learning tool. Tell me to piss off if it's annoying. I'll never learn if I don't ask though.
Are the front 3rd gears 7.5" the same as the IFS? It will be nice to know that when I do an SAS the gears I have to buy soon will be able to reused.
Sorry that I'm using your issues and thread in general as a learning tool. Tell me to piss off if it's annoying. I'll never learn if I don't ask though.
Last edited by Red Wagon; Jan 20, 2012 at 07:43 PM.
#151
Did the 3rd Gens have E-lockers up front as well? I didn't know that the 2nd and 3rd Gen diffs where interchangeable especially after an SAS like you've done.
Are the front 3rd gears 7.5" the same as the IFS? It will be nice to know that when I do an SAS the gears I have to buy soon will be able to reused.
Sorry that I'm using your issues and thread in general as a learning tool. Tell me to piss off if it's annoying. I'll never learn if I don't ask though.
Are the front 3rd gears 7.5" the same as the IFS? It will be nice to know that when I do an SAS the gears I have to buy soon will be able to reused.
Sorry that I'm using your issues and thread in general as a learning tool. Tell me to piss off if it's annoying. I'll never learn if I don't ask though.
a lot of 3rd gens had e-lockers in the rear.
the solid front axles from the early 80's trucks used the 8" diff, which is used in all rear ends from the early 80's till now.
its all the same (variations exist for 4cyl and v6 models)
this site has a lot of info on the different years/models/diffs
http://home.4x4wire.com/erik/diffs/
#153
took a ton of pics of my locker/R&P install for the rear.
Parts:
Aussie Locker
5.29 gears
Tools:
Lots
Time:
All ˟˟˟˟ing day
took like 2-3 hours to get the 3rd member out, 2 rusted studs hung me up for a little while.
3rd member out, and clamped to the bench

marked those wheels so it would make it easy to set backlash


caps and races off

I don't know how you could do this job without impact, but people do... I don't

ring bolts removed

ring removed

had to run to harbor freight to pick this tool up, $25 worked awesome multiple times for this one job

I didn't even bend the bolts (yet)

bearings off

spider gears :run:


INSTALL
pull the washer off the back side of the spider gears, put them on the locker

drop it into the carrier

the next part of the locker

then this thing goes in there

then the other half of the locker



putting the diff carrier back together

checked my tolerances, and made sure they were within factory spec

new ring gear on

take the pinion off

press the bearings off the old pinion


press them back onto the new pinion

press the carrier bearings back on

bolt the pinion back in, then drop the carrier into the housing

adjust those stupid wheels to the same marks = perfect backlash in my case
mark some of the teeth

looks good to me

this looks ok too

Tomorrow I'll put this ˟˟˟˟ back in the truck and see how it does
Parts:
Aussie Locker
5.29 gears
Tools:
Lots
Time:
All ˟˟˟˟ing day
took like 2-3 hours to get the 3rd member out, 2 rusted studs hung me up for a little while.
3rd member out, and clamped to the bench

marked those wheels so it would make it easy to set backlash


caps and races off

I don't know how you could do this job without impact, but people do... I don't

ring bolts removed

ring removed

had to run to harbor freight to pick this tool up, $25 worked awesome multiple times for this one job

I didn't even bend the bolts (yet)

bearings off

spider gears :run:


INSTALL
pull the washer off the back side of the spider gears, put them on the locker

drop it into the carrier

the next part of the locker

then this thing goes in there

then the other half of the locker



putting the diff carrier back together

checked my tolerances, and made sure they were within factory spec

new ring gear on

take the pinion off

press the bearings off the old pinion


press them back onto the new pinion

press the carrier bearings back on

bolt the pinion back in, then drop the carrier into the housing

adjust those stupid wheels to the same marks = perfect backlash in my case
mark some of the teeth

looks good to me


this looks ok too

Tomorrow I'll put this ˟˟˟˟ back in the truck and see how it does
#157
Just got everything put back together and taken for a test drive, drives sooooooo much better, traction in the snow is 10x what it was before, and it actually accelerates
that was the first time I drove it more than a mile since I lifted it, I was a little nervous but it actually rides pretty smooth
I have to dial in the alignment a little more, but im getting close


that was the first time I drove it more than a mile since I lifted it, I was a little nervous but it actually rides pretty smooth
I have to dial in the alignment a little more, but im getting close


#160
yep, rear end works great....
waiting on a new diff carrier for the front from yoda jims (www.jimsgotparts.com)
best yota junk yard ever
ordered monday, should be here thursday
$25 + shipping for a diff from CO to MI (it was a lot better when I lived 30 mins from them)
waiting on a new diff carrier for the front from yoda jims (www.jimsgotparts.com)
best yota junk yard ever

ordered monday, should be here thursday
$25 + shipping for a diff from CO to MI (it was a lot better when I lived 30 mins from them)



