Hey welcome aboard Jason. It is a lot farther than I ever thought I'd go, to be honest, the original plan was to just take the body off this one, paint it, and throw it onto my daily driver's frame, but then I decided I'd rather not lose the use of my daily driver during the process, and for the extra money I'll have two running trucks (hopefully).

 

anyone know what the difference between the brake calipers and cylinders are between the 3.0 4runner and the 2.4? The auto parts guy needed me to specify, and now I'm wondering if I should have ordered the one's for the 3.0 if it's a more beefy brake system, but I didn't know if they just had different bolt patterns or something. I'll have to look into it cause now I'm curious

 

A lot of guys seem to be upgrading to the v6 brakes not sure what's involved tho

 

So I went out last night and continued my destruction of my 4runner. I need to name my trucks like Twistedyota did with his. I'm tired of saying "the '88" or "my daily driver". When Twisted talks about "The Scav" in his build thread, I always know exactly which one he's talkin about. Anyway, here come a whole lot more rust filled pics:

Here's the rear junction valve, or at least that's what I call it. I'm really hoping it cleans up better than it looks right now. The fact that I'm replacing all the lines means I can just snip everything and use a socket to pull out all the fittings.

First line I snipped

Connects to this one. I'm pretty sure this is the main line for the rear brakes, and the other one T's off the front brakes and back to the load sensor, which if my memory is good, redirects extra braking ratio to the back when you've got enough weight on the back axle. Otherwise I have no clue why there are 2 lines going to the back when only one line goes out from the rear valve junction and then T's off to the two sides. I read something about it a while ago but I'll have to research it.

Snipping the 2nd one.

It runs up the frame and shares this T with the right front caliper. Snip.

Figured I'd snip this fuel line while I was here.

I moved on to the parking brake cable. This is the spring bracket where the cable from the cab/body connects. I disconnected that cable before the body lift. If it sounds like I'm teaching you while I'm posting pics, I'm actually not. I'm writing it out like this so I'll have something to reference when I start rebuilding, because I'm sure to forget a ton of this stuff. Writing it out like this really helps my memory, too. During the rebuild I'll probably be reading my own thread in reverse, lol. In the pic I just posted I have my vice grips on the retaining clip holding the cable to the cross brace that horseshoes over the driveshaft. I ended up having to put a flathead screwdriver on the top of it and tapping it out. I gave it a rub and it still had paint on it. It blows my mind when I find a clean part amidst all this metal cancer. I then took off the adjustment nut that my index finger is pointing at, and passed it through the crossmember.

There's another bracket here to take off of the rear axle.

This is just a sorta overview of my progress so far that night. If it isn't that, I have no clue why I took the picture.

The cable goes to each wheel, connected with a rod and a cauter pin. They were seized on both wheel brackets, and caused me to fill the shop with a fair amount of impolite words. Ok honestly it wasn't a fair amount of words, It was mostly one word that I just sorta said over and over like a sailor's mantra. I soaked them with penetrating oil, stopped for a smoke to let it do the job, and recited my mantra when they still wouldn't pull free. I tried tapping them out with a center punch to avoid mushrooming them, slamming them with a hammer, tapping a wedge in the flat head side, and then I took the torch to the pins and walked away while they cooled, oiled them again, and finally they pulled free. I seriously had to do this on both sides, same process, and same results.

Another bracket. This one holds a plastic slider guide. I snapped the bolt on my first twist. I might save this pic in case I ever need to build up a picture profile as a hand model. I'm certainly getting a lot of practice.
That was it for the parking brake cable. The next bit is just a bunch of snips, I don't have much to say but I need to post the pics for reference, so I apologize, this is kinda one of those threads you could use as a flipbook instead of actually reading. Waaaay too many pics.

Snip

Snip

Snip

Little bracket here.

Snip

Snip

Snip

Snip

So this is where I'm sitting now. Frame's getting pretty bare, hoping I'll be able to take off the engine/tranny this weekend and clean everything up. This last one is a nasty pic. I put away the trouble light before I took it, and my camera phone takes crap pics in low light.

 

I looked a bit into it, apparently the v6 calipers and rear brake cylinders do have better stopping power, but I think you have to upgrade your master cylinder to actually make it worth it. I ended up just going with the regular calipers for the 2.4L. I tend to drive like a grandpa anyway, and I downshift instead of braking most of the time. If the experts want to step in and explain factory 22re and 3vze brake differences, seriously you should, we're all here to learn.

 

hey you are getting a lot done.

as for the differance in the calipers.
i believe the 22re's have 2 pistons in the caliper a big one and a small one
while the 3vze's also have 2 pistons but they are both big ones.
i think tht is what it is but not 100% sure.

 

Yeah you might be right, I thought there might be a possibility that there was an extra piston, but it would make much more sense that there would be just a bigger diameter. I never looked when I had my '91 6cyl. If my memory is good the master cylinder you need to run the 6cyl brake system properly needs a 1" bore, no clue what the 4cyl has. I'm going to have to look this up in case someone reads this and thinks I know what I"m talking about, and then screws up their truck because of it.

 

from what I understand, and Im trying to get more info myself just upgrading the master to the bigger bore will gain some but not sure on that like I said Im trying to find out for sure what I need.

 

yeah I just spent 30mins looking for a thread I found the other night on those brakes, was some guy who swapped out 4cyl brakes for T100 brakes, think they're the same as 6cyl brakes, installed a 1 1/16" bore master aluminum cylinder, cut back his guards to allow for the bigger rotors, posted stats on the differences and now I can't remember his name or how I found the thread. I remember the mounting bolt pattern was the same, they bolt straight on, but the rotors were like .9 of an inch thick instead of like .7 of an inch thick, calipers were built to match and I don't remember anything else. I need to start to take notes when I read threads.

 

happens to me all the time I need take notes or book mark stuff somthing. good lord some of these threads take hours to read the first time lol.

 

I couldn't find the pic when I was posting earlier, my phone likes to randomly reset it's settings. Here's what 600 bucks worth of 4runner brake parts looks like:

I'm invested now, there's no turning back. Mowahaha ha

Pic I took later:

 

thats alot of boxes man LOL good luck

 

I just bought a jar of moss green metalflake off ebay. should look like this:

Think the idea is you paint a black base coat and then mix it in with a few layers of clear coat. I'll have to try it on some scraps to see if I can make it work/like the effect.

 

sounds good, waiting to see the results.

also good luck with all the brakes

 

heyy here is some info about the v6 braking:
later model toyotas equipped with the V6 engine feature a larger vented rotor and a brake pad with more contact patch

just to answer some of your question about the differances

 

Cant help you on the brake differences. I didnt think they would change with different engines, but now I know different.

$600 in parts dont take long and doesnt provide a lot of boxes. Looks like you got about everything. Hope it goes together easy for you.

I like green myself.

 

So my goal for this weekend was to have the engine and transmission off the frame, and I was determined to reach that goal. My father in law had an old engine hoist that had been made by it's previous owner, but there was a problem:

That's as far as it will lift, completely maxed out. The jack wouldn't lift the boom higher than the pivot point, so it had a fairly useless operating range. I chopped a section out of the mast, lowered the pivot point below the end of the jack and welded it back up.

This is it at max height after the modification.
I threw a floor jack under the transmission and started to pull the bolts holding the engine and tranny together. I didn't get pics of all of them but they're pretty straightforward except for this one:

It's tucked in pretty tight behind the clutch slave cylinder.

I had to disconnect this power steering line as well.

So here I am ready for the lift. It took a fair amount of work to get the engine to pop off of the transmission. I had ratchet straps from the engine mounts to the front frame crossmember for tension, and still had to pry and pull before it broke free.

I took a bit of a breather. I was already halfway to completing my weekly goal, with only the tranny lift left.

I decided to take the front driveshaft right off instead of leaving it with the front diff or the transmission/transfer case. It would make it easier to get to the tranny mount bolts anyway.

And off. I didn't remember to take pics of the guards I had to remove from where the shaft connects to the transfer case, but it wasn't very complicated. There are 4 tranny mounting bolts, two on each side:

It was easy to get to the ones on this side with the guard and driveshaft off.

Chained for the lift




After I was done I had two left over pieces that I couldn't remember where they went. This doesn't bode well. I think the little metal clip was a clip for the starter wiring. I forgot to mention I took the starter off before I lifted the engine, and didn't get any pics of it.

And this is where I quit for the night. body mount brackets make pretty good cup holders.

 

You made alot of progress this weekend. I didnt recognize that clip or where it came from.

I think once you get everything cleaned up, you will be surprised at how fast it will go. But cleaning definetly takes time. That si one thing that is nice to do will waiting on parts fund.

I think your right, that body mount makes a perfect beverage holder.

 

dang your the man

 

looks like you are realy staying on track and gaining a lot of ground, good job.