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Glad to hear there's progress on your 4runner. Personally I dunno if I'd have the same coolness about the whole ordeal as you guys seem to have. Good luck, the end is near-er!
Might need a bigger waste gate, or a tweak in the mounting setup, maybe a blow off valve set to 9-10# would drop some of that also (yes i know thats not its function). However the exhaust once it's completed will help some, right now it's venting both to atmosphere on short pipe runs so it tends to want to keep moving in the same direction w/o restrictions.
PS >10 is a kick in the pants to drive and relatively safe at lower rpms.
Went by to talk to Albert yesterday. He replaced the fuel pressure regulator and replaced the o-ring on the fuel pressure dampner since it was leaking. But the stumble at WOT still cannot be corrected. And since there is no other options, it seems like the original idea is the problem. When the machine shop machined the pick they took it down 120 thousandths. As of right now the timing is pulled 12* retarded to get it to run right. But as soon as the boost kicks in the knock sensor tries to pull timing back further for a split second. Only way to get that corrected immediately is to hack the factory ECU out and put in an aftermarket ECM. Then it could be tuned however I wanted. But that's another 1500 that I don't have. Albert also called and got a quote on a cometic gasket as a second option and they said to get that they'd need to make it 5 layer custom and that I WILL need ARP head studs. To have him do that is about 1500 bucks. Which I don't have.
so, we worked out a temporary fix. The truck is perfectly drivable at -12* as long as you keep your foot out of it. At stock timing it runs, but it runs like butt. So, he's going to put it back to stock timing so I can get the exhaust on it and take it to get smogged. Then I'll take it back to Albert again to have the timing reset to -12*. As soon as I get taxes back, I'll take the truck back to him to have the head gasket and ARP studs installed. Doomy and I talked at length about the better of 2 options and while I DO want to eventually swap this rig over to a Caltech elite 750, right now, that feels like a bandaid and not doing it the right way. So, stay tuned, I guess. We will get there eventually.
I think just putting the adjustable cam gear on (~100$ + labor) would be beneficial. You get the low rpm help of a higher base compression ratio. Just need less tension on your waste gate, to keep it on pump gas. This would free a large bit of tax return, for the haltech and accessories.
I think just putting the adjustable cam gear on (~100$ + labor) would be beneficial. You get the low rpm help of a higher base compression ratio. Just need less tension on your waste gate, to keep it on pump gas. This would free a large bit of tax return, for the haltech and accessories.
I'm wondering about this also. If the machine shop decked the block .120"(nearly an eigth inch) the cam will have retarded. Decking like this is sometimes done because the Pistons were replaced and do not have the same compression height(center of wrist pin to top of piston)as originals. Decking it preserves the correct DITH measurement(down in the hole, top of block to top of piston at TDC) which is typically somewhere between 0-.250". That's where the term "zero-decked block" comes from. The DITH combined with your head gasket thickness(compressed) and combustion chamber (shallow part) depth result in your "quench" measurement. Typically targetted at .035", iirc.
However, I think I did the math and determined each tooth on the cam is worth 10*(36 teeth, 360 degrees) but only 5* with respect to the crank. Block decked .125" is not going to result in 5* retarded cam and a thicker head gasket would mitigate that too. Check my math, I just woke up.
So I guess I've talked myself out of the idea that the decked block could be responsible for severely retarded cam timing. UNLESS the cam timing was off a tooth to begin with, has this been checked? But having made this mistake on a Corvette with a radical cam(a long time ago), I can tell you you'd have to advance the ignition timing a bunch to get it to run better.
Setting the ignition timing back 12* sounds pretty extreme. Is he aware of the ecu jumper?
Now I am thinking the cam is off in the advanced direction. He just changed the head, right? Double check the cam timing as soon as you get your hands on the truck again.
Last edited by Melrose 4r; Jan 19, 2018 at 09:41 AM.
We talked about doing an adjustable cam gear and we both decided that, much like installing an aftermarket ECU right now, it would just be a bandaid. This needs to be done right.
small update. Dropped by the shop to get the 4runner tonight and......well.....He got it tuned and back to running like crap so I can smog it, but.....the key snapped off in the ignition. Smgdmfh. He's already ordered a new lock cylinder, but I'm fairly certain I have all they locks and keys from the parts runner that I was gonna swap out anyways. He told me that if I give him those locks and keys, he will install them and that includes fixing the back window that won't go up. So, win? Hahaha. I told him that I'm fairly certain that this truck is possessed and doesn't want to be driven. He told me that he's not sure if it's that or it just likes being in his shop. ������
I guess it's a bonus As an observer watching what you're going through, I do have to say you've got some patience my man.
Hopefully this rig doesn't decide to agree with both you and your mechanic in the end - enjoy spending lots of time in his shop and then still decide it's possessed and doesn't want to be driven
truck is back in my possession for now. While it's not running perfect, shes running a lot better than when I dropped her off. Took her out to have the exhaust installed. Shes nlw got 2.25" exhaust through a cat and Borla Pro XS muffler. The cat is removable with a test pipe to put in to save it from theft and damage when 4wheeling. It's amazing how quiet it is now. I mean, it was relatively quiet before because of the turbo, but its got a nice deep rumble now(for a 22re) and isn't overly obnoxious.
the best part though, seeing Doomy drive her truck again after almost 6 years.
picking her up from the shop.
To the exhaust shop. No sputtering and she accelerates pretty quickly.
Took the runner into town to get smogged today. First place I went to refused to smog it after opening the hood. He said he'd never heard of a turbo 22re before and he wouldn't mess with it. Flat refusal. So we hopped in the truck and went down the road to another shop. This shop at least pulled the truck into the bay and started looking at it before coming back and telling us that they couldn't do anything for us because the truck wasn't "in their book". They also said that because the emissions sticker wasn't on the hood, they couldn't even verify hose routing. No amount of explaining that it was factory and that they get smogged all the time did any help. And asking to see this "book" to see if I could find it elicited a "NO, that is for technicians only!"
so, we drove from there over to the toyota dealership to see if we could get that emissions sticker but it has been discontinued. The parts guy, however, searched the vin and got me as much info from their computer on the truck as he could. Not much, but it referenced several times that it was turbo and California compliant. He also stapled his business card to it and said to have the smog tech call him if they didn't believe(he was pretty upset with them too). Left there and went up the highway to one more smog shop. This time I explained everything up front and the guys had no problem with it.
now the rub. In California, if you modify ANYTHING related to emissions controls, it must have a sticker and an O.E. number. The turbo is no exception. They checked the turbo and saw it wasn't the ct20. Boo. Knew there was a chance of them doing that. Counter guy tells me there's 2 ways to continue. 1, stop the smog, and apply for a single day permit to drive to a California Air Resources Board Referee(appointments are usually 1-2 months out). Or, 2, smog the truck and take the failed smog to dmv. I could reg the truck and then they'd give me a 30 day permit to drive the truck. I told them to just smog it because if it failed the dyno test, I'd know if I needed to repair anything before the ref. Other than the truck bouncing around on the dyno due to oddly worn tires, she passed smog like she was a brand new truck.
so in the end, she failed the smog test by passing with flying colors. The counter tech told me that the ref will give me a metal placard or sticker that goes on the firewall letting all other smog shops know not to worry about the turbo in the future. So that'll be nice. He also told me that it would have failed anyways because the fuel pressure damper is leaking and I verified. It's leaking around the plastic cap. So, ill have to replace that. You know, same old story, 1 step forward, 3 steps sideways. But progress is progress even if it's just an inch.
Bwahaha, "NO, that is for technicians!", great secret rules and regulations are so easy to follow..
Wonder what they would do with my CT20, being a ct20 but not the " right " one.
I seem to recall the pulse damper is no longer available, or was excessive expensive. Mine stopped leaking after a good soak in fuel. Short of finding one you can use the second gen parts, I got the fuel rail, banjo bolt, and fuel line from the scrapyard, there is a thread (or two) that will tell you which bits you need. I recall it as just the line and banjo bolt (?), I got the whole bit because it was already pulled and just sitting there.
There are aftermarket dampness available on rock auto for fairly cheap. I think I'm gonna go that route if I can't find a used one in good shape.
as for the LCE stuff not having carb numbers, no and they don't say that it does. They can't afford to hock 20 units and 25 thousand bucks to get them carb approved to sell, maybe, 100.
as far as my research goes, there's only 1 carb approved turbo replacement and I can't find any info on it anywhere.
EO: D-140-21 View PDF EO Date: 1987-09-18 Manufacturer Name: Spearco Performance Products, Inc.Device: Turbocharger Kit Device Type: Turbocharger System / Turbocharger ModificationPart_Number:Model_Specification:Modifi cation_Allowed:Remarks:1987 and older Toyota with a 2.4 L fuel injected 4 cylinder engines Includes fuel enrichment device and an electronic spark retard module
hopefully the ref will be ok with the setup as it sits now a d I don't have to worry about trying to find a new turbo.
Jan 8, 2018 | 12:53 PM
As an observer watching what you're going through, I do have to say you've got some patience my man.
