I purchased a 91 Pickup at the end of summer 09. I'm the third owner, and while it looks like she hasn't been outright abused, there are signs of not-knowing-any-better from the previous owners. I've been assembling a list of things that need doing.

I've been searching on here for a while now, and I've been finding a lot of helpful information, but the list is getting overwhelming. With the number of things to be done, they're all intertwined, and to me it makes sense that they all belong in one thread.

This is the first vehicle that I'm in charge of maintenence on, so I'm green. Very green. I have a garage full of tools though, and I'm pretty handy with anything mechanical (bikes, guns, plumbing, welding, etc)

In exchange for everyone's help, I'm willing to keep a photo-log of any work I do, and perhaps end up with a nice guide for all the other 3VZE owners out there looking for help.

Things to know at the start:

• 91 Pickup with 3VZE engine
• 5spd manual
• 4x4 manual hubs
• 161k miles when I got it
• The HG was warrantied by a previous owner
• To the best of my knowledge, everything is stock in terms of performance.
• This is my only vehicle, but my schedule can allow for it to be non-op four consecutive days each week, if need be. Ideally, all jobs will fit into that.

And now to the list:

1. Timing belt is due for a change
2. Radiator has evil green antifreeze
3. Power steering leak
4. PS system needs to be flushed of PS and replaced with ATF
5. Truck drifts to right slightly
6. Truck shudders under med-hi speed when braking
7. Truck has vibration (sometimes) on freeway, doesn't start until +70mph
8. Vents work, but AC does not cool
9. Windows don't like rolling up or down
10. Slowly consumes engine oil (~1 qt in 3k miles)
11. 70% of time, hesitates on start. Have to crank it 2-3 times to fire.
12. In relation to 11, typically followed by low idle, gutless.
13. I have a leaky one of these: http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c2...MG2610crpd.jpg

That's all I can think of at the moment.
So, where to from here?
Sorting out what order all this should be done in?
Telling me to bugger off?
Have at, boys.
Your friendly neighborhood noob,
ChzSoda

 

Have a Haynes Manual? If not, I highly recommend one, Haynes, Chilton's , whatever you chose, but get one, they REALLY help. I have diagnosed several of the problems on my Runner by reading the Haynes manual. Also, read the diagrams, so you can figure out what is what, and where it goes, Don't just dive in. lol, but you knew that. Good luck man, hope you get it runnin good.

 

Welcome.

I'd start out with the basics.

Change All Fluids, Including DIffs, Tranny and Transfer case. Do a full tune-up including Fuel Filter, Air FIlter and PCV. Use OEM parts for the tune-up. Then check the timing. That'll get you started.

Good Luck.

 

I've got both the Haynes and Chilton, and yes, they've brought a lot of light to the problems. The thing is, I'm one of those "measure three times, cut once, double check the measurements, clean up the cut, measure one more time" kind of guys. I like knowing all the angles haha

Did some more searching around, and I'm now inclined to believe that #13 is a leaky distributor rod o-ring, the proper name of which I'm not sure. Anybody know how to get at, and replace one those?

2-8-10
New question - What parts are needed for the TB replacement, and are there any other "while you're in there" jobs that go along with it? Keeping in mind that there's a 90% chance everything under the hood came from the factory.

 

Bump. Still looking for some input before I start wrenching.

 

'Nother bump. Anyone know what parts are needed for a timing belt replacement? I've seen mention of a new idler pulley or something.
Any other jobs that should be done while I'm in there?

 

Bump.

 

if your going to take the throtle body off. if that is what your doing...then i recommend replacing the knock sensor "wires only" the sensor is bullit proof but the wires corode easly and its a hella of a job to do just for a few wires.. also check your valve clearence these valves on the 3vz 3.slow tend to stretch, so if your taking the top end of the motor apart and your budget alows these fixes i would highly recomend doing these repairs....also only use OEM parts they will last and are in factory specs. good luck!!!!!

 

Well, you have a few days of work ahead of you! You can download the factory service manual here http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/index.html The 90-95 4Runner download will have information on the truck as the truck and 4 Runner are basically the same mechanically. This is MUCH better than Haynes or Chiltons.

There are several threads that discuss the timing belt. I did a writeup on resealing a leaking PS pump https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...riteup-183622/

You have so many areas that you want to work on that it would take a book to answer everything. I guess I'd pick a specific area to work on (timing belt, head gaskets, u-joints, center bearing, EFI testing, power steering leaks, etc) and search the key word and there is probably a thread about it. This site has an incredible number of skilled and helpful folks but they expect you to search first and then narrow down to a specific question to answer.

Good luck and have fun,
Bugs

 

6.
Could be a couple of things

Firstly check the wheel bearings. Jack up the front of the vehicle and grab the top and bottom of the tire and push top pull bottom and see if there is play. FSM manual will show you how to do this. While there check the pads and rotors to see if they are worn out or grooved. replace as necessary

7.

Pull the driveshafts at the transmission and check the nuts holding the flange on. They are probably a bit loose. FSM will give you torque specs. that should take care of vibration.

Easy problems to rectify and dont cost a lot

Good Luck

 

Focus on one area first -- the timing belt -- because you'll need to drain the coolant/remove the rad/maybe a bad water pump/maybe a leaking power steering pump anyway. It'll give you good access to the A/C compressor and condenser (the smaller rad in front of the engine rad) if that's why the A/C crapped out as well. This is a lot of work for any expert mechanic in a regular garage so although your commitment is great, plan on the truck being down for much longer that you've planned.

Get the engine running well, then focus on the chassis problems.

 

Update-
Leaving more and more oil on the driveway, so I crawled under and got pictures of what seem to be the two major sources of it... Anybody ID the parts that may be leaking here?

Pic 1
http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c2...0518001257.jpg

Pic 2
http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c2...0518001258.jpg

Pic 3
http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c2...0518001307.jpg

Pictures 1 and 2 are of the same part. I'm not sure if the leak is coming from here directly, or if it is just creeping down to it from somewhere else, but you can see by the clean stripe behind the part in Pic 2 that the oil is slinging off from there as it spins.

Pic 3 is where something with wires enters the transmission. Shot in the dark: tach sensor? Speedo?

 

ok do the timing belt first and you can do the first four things you got in your list....also replace you water pump and all you belts.......your a/c can be low and thats why is not working........are your window power or manual? take the doors panels and look inside for any dirt.....

 

Got the timing belt and water pump changed today, went with a factory belt and Aisin pump.
Swapped all the other belts also, and did a full radiator flush with the heater on, whole 9 yards, then filled it with 50/50 factory red and distilled water.
The updated list is now:

1. FIXED Timing belt is due for a change
2. FIXED Radiator has evil green antifreeze
3. Power steering leak
4. PS system needs to be flushed of PS and replaced with ATF
5. Truck drifts to right slightly
6. Truck shudders under med-hi speed when braking
7. Truck has vibration (sometimes) on freeway, doesn't start until +70mph
8. Vents work, but AC does not cool
9. Windows don't like rolling up or down
10. Slowly consumes engine oil (~1 qt in 3k miles)
11. 70% of time, hesitates on start. Have to crank it 2-3 times to fire.
12. In relation to 11, typically followed by low idle, gutless.
13. I have a leaky one of these: http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c2...MG2610crpd.jpg

 

Pics 1 and 2 look like excess grease flung from the U-joints over the years. My '94 is exactly the same underneath in all areas where the U-joints spin. What does the leak smell like? Grease, gear oil, fuel?

Pic 3 looks like the reverse light switch -- easy to check that.

Speaking of U-joints, a friend with a T-100 (same drivetrain) recently replaced his U-joints and doing that fixed his vibration problem he kept telling me for a few months. It's noteworthy because my rearmost U-joint, at the pinion, was toast yet cruised at 130 km/h smooth and quiet. I still changed it but it seems U-joint problems are case by case, no pun intended.

 

I just thought of something else. That leak, check for a fuel leak. Seriously, I had the exact same slow/hard starting problem two years ago. The fuel pump is trying to prime the system but the pressure is bleeding off from the leak. My leak was at the tank sender unit steel fittings -- rusty. Try this: flip the ignition key to "ON" a few times before going to "START" -- cranking -- that'll put enough pressure in the line despite the leak so that it should fire right away. See if that does anything.

 

I'm getting just a tad over 16mpg... Which I think is low for this truck? I remember reading 18 somewhere. Is that normal, low, perhaps a symptom of the leak you're suspecting?

 

I'd be less concerned about fuel mileage and more concerned about brain cell-killing fumes and a really dangerous fire/explosion hazard if the fuel leak is bad enough to affect fuel mileage. A small leak in the line won't necessarily allow fuel to leak out but to bleed pressure which would allow the fuel to drain back to the tank. That's the problem I had -- a bit would leak out but the pressurized fuel would drain back.

Besides, 14-22 mpg is the range for these trucks, with some highs and lows in extreme cases. Remember, a 4WD Xtra-Cab '89-'95 weighs between 3,700-3,900 lbs. with a really bad aerodynamic shape, so 16 mpg doesn't seem too far off in this case.

 

Put on a new distributor cap, rotor, spark plugs, and cables, and advanced the timing to the ~12 range as suggested on here.
While I was in there, pulled the dist and replaced the seal on the shaft. The old one shattered like glass when I tried taking it off... Definitely where some of the engine oil loss was coming from.

Also now running full synthetic 10w-40, and have the larger YZZD3 Denso filter installed.

Unfortunately, something new has gone awry. There is some sort of fuel related problem going on as suggested (perhaps more so predicted) by Mike. After lots (read: s***loads) of searching, I believe it to be rust from the tank/pump making it past the fuel filter, and possibly clogging my injectors.

So, the current list is:

1. FIXED Timing belt is due for a change
2. FIXED Radiator has evil green antifreeze
3. Power steering leak (Both sides of system)
4. PS system needs to be flushed of PS and replaced with ATF
5. Truck drifts to right slightly
6. Truck shudders under med-hi speed when braking
7. Truck has vibration (sometimes) on freeway, doesn't start until +70mph
8. AC does not cool (found a leak in a hard-line near the battery)
9. Windows don't like rolling up or down
10. Slowly consumes engine oil (~1 qt in 3k miles)
11. Hesitates on start. Have to crank 2-3 times to fire. Suspected fouled injectors, fuel filter, rusty tank
12. In relation to 11, typically followed by low idle, gutless.
13. FIXED I have a leaky one of these (Seal under distributor): http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c2...MG2610crpd.jpg

 

Try changing the fuel filter before condeming the injectors. The fact of life is that the fuel filter does its job well. But it gets plugged. And then your friggin' engine won't run right.

My ma's old '84 Subaru GL-10 had a rusted tank. The local garage installed a repaired, epoxied tank but the tank repair place left so much blast media and fine dust crap inside it that it clogged two fuel filters in one month -- the engine would idle but bog at any more than 1/3 throttle.