i also want to use a couple of terminals on the hot block as a switched 12v, just in case i need some. My electric choke works now, i used one of the ports on that 4 wire plug that was a switched 12 v. If anyone needs help with hooking up the electric choke on a weber carb, let me know. Its very easy once u understand whats going on

 

next thing on my list is a lot of clean up of the wires, i want to fix some of the electric tape rat nests under the hood, figure out where to put the power distribution blocks, get those clips so i can mount my faceplate, get a smaller temp gauge adapter so i can install the sender, and i'll post pics of that, and then work on my gas sender when i take the bed off. Theres MUCH more, i'm sure you folks know im far from done. I'll be posting all of my progress. After this truck is done, my 94 will be next. Oh ya, i bought another yota. 94 4wd 22re

 

Regarding your fuel issue and fuel pump. The Weber only needs 2-3 psi of pressure. The stock pump puts out at least twice that. Lots of people use a fuel regulator and gauge to reduce the pressure. You said 50 gph, I believe that to be an incorrect figure, large trucks and aircraft do not require that much fuel flow. Once you get the carb tuned, make sure to re-check engine timing.
If you would, please describe your electric choke hook up process?

Best of luck...........

 

Also, your coolant problem could be a bad radiator cap that was not venting pressure along with perhaps air in the system from not having a overflow resivour S

 

ok utah, so here is the electric choke hookup and here is a vid

my multimeter is on volts (dc) mine has a function button to change from ac to dc. For anyone that doesn't know a lot about electrical, like me lol, the car electrical is dc, not ac. I have the red probe in the (V) port and the black probe in the ground (com) port.




here is the plug i used, its not being used by anything currently, the previous owner had used this plug for the stock carb electric choke, but he used the wrong um... port? There are 4 wires that go to this plug, each wire is one of the 4 ports u see there. He had used the red wire, which is one of the bottom two which have 0 current when the key is on. I used my multimeter to check each one while the key was off to see if any of them had constant power, then checked with the key on




for my truck, both of the 2 vertical ports on the plug had 12v (DC) power when the key was in the on position and 0 when the key was in the off position, so i used one of those. I found the wire on the male part of the plug for that port and put a new connector on it




there is the male part of the plug, the wire i used that i made sure had 12v (DC) when the key is on and the new connector i put on it. So i plugged the male into the female (green plug) and hooked my new wire to the spade connector prong on the choke. Then instead of using the ground post on my battery, i used the carb as the ground when testing it with the multimeter. as you probably noticed, there is nowhere for a ground wire to be hooked up, only the hot. The carburetor is the ground.




and there it is plugged in, just use the hot (red) probe on that connection and put the black (ground, com) probe on the carburetor and turn the key on, the multimeter should read 12v(dc) I spent about an hour trying to figure out why i wasn't getting any current, i didn't switch my multimeter from (ac) to (dc)
Because im retarded lol.

 

Oh ya Utah, this is what i found

http://www.racetep.com/webfuelspark.html#webfuel


Fuel Pumps and Fuel Pressure:
Fuel delivery is critical to the proper performance of any Weber carb. From a basic 32/36 DGEV to a set of Triple Sidedraft DCOE's. Webers rely on a stable full float bowl in order to mix the fuel and air correctly. Mechanical pumps very rarely do this. They pulse fuel instead of giving a smooth even delivery and the amount of fuel varies with engine RPM. A Proper Electric Fuel pump will give the best performance and most stable tuning for any Weber carb application. We use only High Volme and Low Pressure pumps. Webers work best at approx 4 psi of fuel pressure (Not 2 psi like many of the older books stated.) and you need Volume not Pressure to keep the float bowl full.We ONLY use the Carter Rotary pumps. They are High Volume (60-70 GPH) but only 4 psi. This is PERFECT for all Weber applications from a Single 32/36 DGV on a Truck, Jeep or Car to a Triple Sidedraft setup on a Road Race car making 300 HP...This pump DOES NOT and SHOULD NOT use a Pressure Regulator for any reason. That is why we use it

 

and i'm using that same carter pump, so far its worked so good dude. No regulator, the truck starts right up, and I still haven't adjusted ANYTHING as far as idle, etc... I also got rid of all the vacuum lines except for the vacuum advance, the brake booster and egr

 

Well i just got my new bosal exhaust pipe, muffler and catalytic converter from rock auto. It was about 200.00 with shipping. It took about 30 min to install, i had to grind the bolts off of the flange because it was just one solid piece of rust lol. I got the truck with the pipes that connect to the exhaust manifold and the cat converter and thats it, no muffler, tail pipe, etc... Here is the old cat and some pics of the new hardware.

the old catalytic converter rust bucket




pretty rough shape




shiny new catalytic converter from rock auto




muffler




is it ok to have the tailpipe between the leaf spring and frame? i have a few inches of clearance, i can get another photo if u need to see how much

 

Well i got my new 1 ton chain hoist so i can finally get the bed off without having to call somebody. Its a big red hoist by torin. The frame looks really good for being an 87, but there is one giant rust hole on the pipe "crossmember"? Whatever the pipe is that holds the exhaust hanger and goes across between the frame. I have my new lincoln mig welder shipping tonight and i was gonna ask, should i cut the whole pipe out with a sawsall, or... clean the rust and get about 2 feet of pipe that has the inside diameter the same as the outside diameter of the rusted pipe and slice it right down the middle, wrap it around the hold of the rusted pipe and weld the seams. I'll take input from anyone who knows more about this stuff than me, which is probably everyone lol. Thanks guys.

here is the hole, its bigger on the other side.





here is the other side








thats pretty much what the rest of the frame looks like, just very minor surface rust. I got 4 bottles of 3m undercoating





love my new hoist <3





really hoping i can find another gas tank lid or whatever with nice, new steel tubing, the inside looks great but this... f that, look how nice it loos like under the lid

 

Thanks for the write up...I will refer to it when I hook up my new Weber....

 

Anytime brother

 

oh boy, i could really use some help with this. I just ran into a huge problem. I'm in the process of cleaning the outside of the frame and getting ready to undercoat it. Then i took a peek inside of the frame... Its rusted, has dried mud and everything else. I've done some reading on how to fix the rust from inside but i can't afford to do an acid bath nor do I have the skill to pull the motor and everything else off the frame to a bare frame. I like the idea of possibly using a chimney sweep brush thing but are there any other possible ideas of what i might be able to do. I am gonna get por 15 for the inside once and if i can get the rust out.

 

ok once again, i've answered my own question. I'm going to get 3 cans of the eastwood internal frame coating http://www.eastwood.com/internal-fra...ay-nozzle.html

now all i need is a good way to get "most" of the loose rust and mud out, any ideas? I don't have an air compressor. Maybe the have some sort of "snake" tool or something, please let me know if you can think of anything, but once i get all the big loose muddy rusty crap, that internal frame coating seems amazing.

 

Once again, I answered my own question. This is a great idea

http://www.wranglerforum.com/f210/ho...topics/1219793

 

I've looked and looked but can't find a rod for the door handle assembly. If anyone knows of a place lemme know. I found the entire assembly for 130.00 on rock auto but all I need is that stupid rod that connects the outside handle to the opening mechanism

 

Just found your build thread. Looks like you are making some great progress on your truck. I clean my frames starting with an air hose and then follow up with a water hose. Starting at one end and gradually working to the middle of the frame and the start at the other end. There are enough holes to access the frame to get it cleaned well. I go thru mine every summer and give them a good cleaning.

As far as the rod, I would check the bone yards.

 

ya thats my next route, just hope they have some old yotas

 

Here's the frame before

 

 

Your frame cleaned really well. I have seen people replace the pipe that runs across it. Frame looks 100 times better. Also looks like you are taking care of the spare tire carrier while you have easy access to it and working on the fuel tank all at once is a good idea as well. If I get a carbed truck, I think I would relocate the fuel filter to a better area like under the hood if it was me. Great job!!!