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Big ol empty space. Discovered the rear main was leaking also, which I didn't know. Bell housing full of oil. Replaced the throw out bearing while I was there too
Now it's time to start hooking all the little things up. Got to give props to my lovely wife on this one. She helped get it all in place today. Her first motor experience too.
Question for you guys though....f***ing valve cover! How in the hell do you get it on and off easy enough without fighting those damn heater hoses? I tried a valve adjustment a couple years ago but in the process of trying to take the cover off I went and dislocated a rib by leaning and pulling against my bumper so I never did get the cover off. I fought and fought and fought with it tonight and had to quit because I was so frustrated. Any tips on getting passed those hoses? Am I missing something that's making it harder than what it should be? I can't imagine trying to dick with all this after the motor is up to temp for the first valve adjustment.
Last edited by 86yota321; 03-12-2017 at 06:45 PM.
Reason: Forgot to add something
If you pull the valve cover against the hoses it will get passed, although i set my valves cold with absolutely no I'll effects.
i set mine to .007 and .011 cold and rechecked warm and there was no change.
this was on a 22re
The gauge set I have starts at .008 and then it's even numbered after that so I have everything set to .008 and .012 right now. Would I be able to use those and just make the drag a little tighter to start out with?
I'm going to clean up the old valve cover today and use that as a practice one so I don't scratch up my newly painted one anymore. There's got to be some trick to this. I don't understand why something so simple is giving me so much trouble
I scratched the hell out of mine, fresh paint and all. After you scratch it once you don't care anymore.
the book calls for .008 and .012 so that's fine, it also says hot. If you want to follow the book that's fine and recommended. I always run mine on the tight side, it's quieter
Ok, well, finally figured out that stupid valve cover issue. Just had to take some time and calm down. Since I eliminated the stock air cleaner I still wanted to keep the MC valve in play
So, lucky I found a little flat piece of metal here at work and bent it in a 90
And there it is. Just need to drain the gas tank and get some fresh stuff in there, fill up with oil and coolant and I'm ready to fire it up. Now that I have this nice new pretty motor in there, the engine bay is going to need some clean up. That will happen when it's warm enough to get the garden hose back out.
Now it's just trying to narrow down a smooth break-in procedure especially for the initial start up and cam break-in. There's soooo many different opinions out there
Who'd you buy the cam from? I'd contact them and ask. Or hit up Ted at engnbldr. He will know for sure.
I got all the parts from the shop that did all my machine work. I've been thinking of Ted too. Seen a lot people make that comment. I've been reading different things all morning and taking a few notes to find the general consensus between them all. Got a couple days to figure this out before I get to that point.
Well, just to update...Sunday I got got the motor fired up. Talk about nerve racking, lol. Took my time and made sure I was triple checking things as I moved along. I ran the truck between 1800 and 2000 rpm for 20 minutes for the cam break in. Everything went fairly well. I adjusted the valves after the first initial run and found that they hadn't moved from the cold setting I did when the motor was on the stand. Towards the back of the motor though it sounded at first that I had a valve tapping but also sounded like and exhaust leak maybe. I re-adjusted valves about 3 times just to make sure and then torqued down the exhaust manifold again but the sound is still slightly there. Don't know if that is because I haven't got my timing or the carb tuned in yet but I'll see when I get to that point. All in all for my first rebuild I feel pretty good. Worst thing though...f@%$ing oil leak at the rear It looks like it might be the rear of the pan so I tightend the bolts just a hair but its still there. So it's either that or I might have done something to the rear main when I put that in. That was my biggest fear was having a leaking motor again but atleast it's nothing wrong internally. Just have to make some time to drop the tranny and check things out. For now I'll get her tuned up first and then move on to the leak.
03-12-2017, 06:25 PM
It looks like it might be the rear of the pan so I tightend the bolts just a hair but its still there. So it's either that or I might have done something to the rear main when I put that in. That was my biggest fear was having a leaking motor again but atleast it's nothing wrong internally. Just have to make some time to drop the tranny and check things out. For now I'll get her tuned up first and then move on to the leak.
