Thanks for the photos. I can see them on my engine but there is no way I'll get them off. I'm just going to pull the engine and trans together.

 

Here is where I'm at:

 

Is it a matter of not being able to reach them? I cut an extension in half and welded in like 20" of re-bar to make a long one. Now i sit at the back of the tranny and zip the bolts off with an air racket. When i don't have one available I just use a universal joint. This method has served me great for the past three years! (I pulled the junk 700r4 out of my old chevy 3 times. And have done a multitude of other tranny's on other peoples trucks)

 

Hey, saw your thread on RME. Hurry and get that done, that truck needs to get dirty!

 

I've been going lots of advice on how to pull the engine. Thank you all. If I'm able to get a hand I'll pull both engine and transmission together. I really want the transmission out to clean it and the under body of the truck. It will also make it easier to mate them together before reinstalling them.

I stopped by Clegg's machine shop in Orem Utah for a quick tour and some advice on how to save some money when dropping off my parts.







Here are a few things I've learned regarding the 22RE from a guy who rebuilds engine for a living. I trust him.

-It's cheaper to tear everything down and turn it in to be cleaned and machined. Put it back together yourself.

-With pistons pull the caps off, throw away the used barring, and bolt the cap back on the same piston in the same direction.

-The bolts for the piston rods and cap are not stretch bolts so they can be reused.

-With crank shaft pull the caps off, throw away the used barring, and bolt the cap back on in the same place in the same direction.

-Pistons should interchangeable. If they are not the piston or the block is out of spec and should be replaced to machined.

-Have a machinist do a compression check on the head. Cost $50. If they have to tear it down, machine it and rebuild it that is an extra $120. If a head passes the compression it will function as efficiently as rebuilding it.

-Having the pistons, block, and crank shaft they can measure everything and make sure everything will work. I'm saving money and putting it together myself. Don't forget to use plastigage.

-Adding am RV cam will not require any timing or other adjustment with the head.

-Making your car/truck run lean will cause damage to your pistons. A bad way to save money on gas.

I also did a little more work in preparation for my engine pull pizza party this Saturday. If you're in Utah and want to stop by PM me.



I'm having a hard time with the four bolts on the shifter. I may have to heat them up to get the lose

 

I'm looking at three rebuild kits on eBay by Engnbldr I'm not sure I want to spend money on new pistons or a cam right now but they seem like great deals.

Toyota rbld engine kit 22R 22RE 1985 1995 pickup 4 RNR

Toyota 22R 22RE 268C/Torkr Cam & MASTER KIT *EB kit!!

Toyota 22R 22RE 270/430 H/O Cam & ENGINE REBUILD KIT

 

I think I'm ready to start moving things out. Is this cross bracket the only thing that is holding up the transmission. Looks like there are just 4 bolts on ether side.

 

Jared, there is two bolts at the bottom of the transmission to the mounts. You will need the remove the transmission crossmember to remove the engine transmission together. Also you may have to raise the truck a little higher so you can angle the transmission down.

 

Is this the location of the bolts you are talking about?

 

Yes sir, that's the ones, I first did not know they were. They are hidden.

 

Where in Utah are you?
Scribed

 

Lindon, it's a little town just north of Orem.

 

Sweet, I think they just opened up a Buffalo Wild Wings there... or is it Lehi. I am up by Ogden, btw. Not too far.

 

It's in Lehi. Never been there. Is it good?

 

Well I am a big wings fan so my opinion is based on that, but the place is awesome.

 

Most of the bolts have come off with out a problem. I haven't busted a single knuckle or cut my hands. My wife told me I must be doing it wrong.

 

Unbolt the whole plate not just the shifter. Also remember to mark your drive lines and yoke plate on the tcase for reinstall. oh yeah remove speedo cable and sensor wires also. good luck.

 

Sorry you lost me there. Why do I need to mark them?

 

Shoot I'm stuck, I can't get these bolts off!

 

Sorry so late on reply, a buddy of mine does aligments and balancing, tires, etc. Recommend to always mount drivelines back the way they came off. Could create unwanted vibration. Also bolts lineup and avoid the hassles later. Put the truck 4Lo, 4th/5th gear and choke both sides of the front tires. It will keep the truck/axles from moving. Then use two Ibelieve 12mm wrenches and unbolt.