ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Yep, sure nuff.. BUT, how long do you plan on leaving everything on with the car off? lol... JK, ... I know, camping I end up pushing it too. BUT, .......... I forgot to mention... I have an 800W amp that was running all that time, too. Granted, not pumping volume... BUT, on, ya know?

BTW, I'm NOT trying to steer you toward Duralast Gold... Maybe you can find a great deal with a coupon on line from Sears on a DieHard or something? Just was sharing my experience. I DO have a buddy with an o'reilly battery that's not lasted long... ProStart or something? They changed from a name brand when Kragen turned to O'reilly's-Shuck's...

bbrideau

Went and got an optima yellow top. 243 dollars. pretty penny for a premium battery but it is worth every penny, but i have a new issue and it has me pretty twisted up right now because i have only a vague idea that it could be one thing but im not about to do the old trial and error throw money at it and hope for the best so i turn to my fellow yotatechers.

So here is where it starts will give the play by play as best as possible.
1) got call from Lordco autoparts to come pick up my battery. WOOOHOOO
2) brought battery home, removed old battery, installed new optima yellow top
3) Turn key, nothing.
4) grab multimeter reads 9.5 - 10.1v jumping back and fourth, kind of odd.
5) Jumped the truck with the diesel yota. truck starts fine runs great reading 14.8 on the multimeter while its running figured maybe the optima sat for a bit in the back room and lost some juice no biggie
6) ran truck for 5 minutes shut it off go to start truck. nothing. 9,5-10.1v on multimeter again... wtf.
7) jump truck, runs fine again. run for 5 minutes shut off go to try again. nothing not even my gauges will work in the dash. door buzzer makes sound and my stereo deck is flickering off and on with the key in the off and lock position.
8) go to engine bay, can hear a funny whining screeching kind of noise coming from the fuse block, pop the cover and found it to be the relay labelled "Head" (im assuming its the relay that controls when to power up my ecu?)
9) pulled the relay visually inspected it the damn thing looks to be brand new like the day it rolled out of the factory....
10) so at this point i figured the battery was culprit so i took the leads off the battery and removed it from the truck. out of curiosity i grabbed the multimeter again and tested the battery. it reads 12.5 on the multimeter. as soon as i put the positive and negative leads back on the battery drops to 9.5-10.1 sparratically.....

and thats where i sit on this one now.... wtf is wrong with my truck?

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Toyota's Electrical System, through the Fusible link, etc., etc., .... REQUIRES 11.5 Volts to even turn over.... As does the starter, I believe.

Not sure on the whining... I believe the large relay in the fusible link box reading "HEAD" is for the "HEADLIGHTS"?? NOT EVEN sure... I'd have to go look.

Makes perfect sense that, well, not what you wanna hear... but this battery sounds BEYOND the point of 'dead'... to some degree. I'm sure it might be chargeable... but at 240$? ARE YOU FREAK'N KIDDING ME? Send it back, man.... Multi-meter the next one and if you don't see 12.25 WHEN UNDER LOAD.... It's not 'where it should be'... Reading 12.5 volts with a meter is far different than putting EVEN DASH LIGHTS OR A DOME LIGHT onto it, ...LET ALONE trying to turn the key/Ignition, COR, Fuel PUMP, Starter???? No way.

Just so I'm clear... It says 12.5 UNTIL you hit the key to STA and engage the ignition, right?

bbrideau

it reads 12.5v without anythign attaqched to it and as soon as i put my leads to it it reads 9.5 same with the battery i just pulled out before installing the optima.i dont think its the battery. im going to test that one in the morning by using one of the optima batteries from the diesel

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Ahhh, ok.. Well, that's different. Wow, odd... YEP, you appear to have a doozie... They get those around this time in their lives! lol...

Yep, sounds like a solid plan to begin with.... test one of the other batteries in there to pin down "wiring" .... The buzz could be a relay that just wasn't getting enough juice? Then again, it could be buggered. Did you test the relay for resistance values? Either you have a serious draw/short... or both batteries are silly? Yep... not right, fo sho.

Keep us updated, bud.... interested to see where this goes.

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

Just got done going thru your thread. Do you have an aftermarket stereo put in where someone cut the wires instead of using a connector? I have seen those be the biggest culprit or some non factory add on that they just spliced in.

Here is a link to factory grounds>>> https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...-guide-194413/

bbrideau

Still trying to figure out this power issue, did notice that the power wire to the fuse box under the engine was loose and actually fell out so I'm gonna solder that all together with my new soldering iron, hope that solves some issue. still getting some sort of draw on power not sure why, oh well will have to figure it out some how. took some pictures of the yotas today will have more to come of course, some i posted in chefs build up i'll post some other ones here...






This next one is of the toyota diesel 2L the N/A not the 2LT \/

bbrideau

actually yes, my stereo wiring was hacked all to ˟˟˟˟. took me 3 hours to wire in a deck. has never been an issue til now tho kinda odd it shows up a year later but i can go over the stereo wiring too. might have something funky going on in there.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Wow, nice trucks!

Yeah, the fusible link wire from positive terminal to the fusible link box fell out? That is a HUGE problem.... If it was loose... could have caused lots of issues. It would not allow it to charge, for one... But might prevent you from having proper voltage to things? Interested to see what you find.

Thanks for posting pics of her... she's a purty diesel! lol.

bbrideau

well got that wire soldered back together with a good solid connection to the battery all my grounds are in place. unplugged the stereo my wiring for the back window and my vhf radio. i did however notice that when the power wire to the fuse block in engine bay is not connected to the battery the battery reads 12.3-12.5 as soon as i touch the power wire for the fuse block to the battery the power drops to 9.0-10.1v on the battery.. wtf? but if i boost it from another vehicle the truck will start. im really confussed. i changed out that relay labelled head with one from the wrecker and even swapped it with a different one. im stumped guys...

EDIT: I've also checked all my fuses in cab and in engine bay.... checked the fuse blocks for corrosion and rust there is none to be found....

bbrideau

Just tried disconnecting the alternator too to see if it was pulling power, possible shorted out even tho its new its possible.... still the same issue. when the power wire from the 80amp fuse in the fuse block is hooked to the battery my voltage drops from 12.5 to 10 volts... unplugged starter relay as well same problem, the only things changed on the truck since it last run are the transfer case and the alternator. still doesn't make sense that when its jumped from another vehicle it will run perfectly fine.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Was just gonna say "check the starter relay"... but ya done did! lol.

Hmmmmmm, .... did you check the IGN fuse? 7.5A in the driver kick panel? If you somehow shorted something it might have blown that.... not sure it would read WAY wonky like that... but then.... I can't know that for sure.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Actually, it does make sense, .... you just have to figure out exactly why... I know, the sucky part, lol. BUT, that means that somewhere between the IGN and STA..... Something that get's switched juice is either shorted or something, maybe? Just throwing things out there... doesn't cost ANYTHING to look at stuff's, rigth?

I KNOW I've read this somewhere.... Not necessarily on this site.. But LIKELY so, ya know? Hmmm.... really odd that it would drop with a brand new battery... And when you hit the multi meter to the battery...... You're pressing ONLY on the battery, NOTHING else like the terminals, etc.? I KNOW, i know.... just making sure as it could be getting pulled from somewhere and reading low from the terminals, no?

bbrideau

reading just from the batteries. Think i may have stumbled upon something tho. with the key on battery hooked up everything hooked up. eventually my battery will jump back up to 12 volts. but as soon as i flip my headlights on it kills the battery. all power is gone form everything and battery reads 4 volts.... short somewhere in the headlight system? pulled the head relay and the 2 headlight fuses still have same issue tho.... driving me ˟˟˟˟in bananas.

bbrideau

So i think i have it narrowed down now. When the positive and negative leads are hooked straight to a battery in another vehicle that's not running. the truck will start and run fine every time. So it has to be a ˟˟˟˟ty ground somewhere... going to clean and replace the 4 grounds in the engine bay and see if that fixes my issue. If it doesn't work then i guess im back to square one.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Yeah, thought you were on to something..... BUT, I THINK,....when you remove the Main Relay to the HEADLIGHTS.... the completed circuit is broken... I can't see how voltage could get from any further than the fusible link wire/plate thereafter/80a fuse which joins the alternator....... TO THE HEADLIGHT SWITCH???? BUT, .... you still have voltage TO the plate in the relay connector in the fusible link...> Might need to take that thing down a bit to look in there and see if something is crossed/making contact with a ground wire or something?

Also, sure, ... you may have the chassis ground contacting voltage? Check em all with the multi-meter.... If ya reads dat voltageses..... BAD! lol.

Still interested.... STILL ROOTIN FOR YA!

bbrideau

lots of work cut out tomorrow. gotta redo grounds and rip that fuse block apart. wish i could get a spare one and swap the whole thing makes life simple... hate electrical stuff... Trucks lucky i like it ahahah

bbrideau

so how exactly do i replace the ground wires that are already in the harness? do i have to strip the harness down and replace those grounds or am i just running new grounds from those locations to the chassi/battery/frame ect?

v8stang289

Have you tried the yellow top in another vehicle to make sure it is good? Hooking the leads to a battery in another vehicle doesn't bypass any grounds in your truck, its just like having longer battery cables. Really sounds like a dead cell in the yellow top with the voltage drop you are getting. Good luck with it!

westjohns yota

yeah thats about what i was thinking ^ even though its a new battery dloesnt mean its good