bbrideau

well.... this is going to make everyone laugh i think..... im still stumped as to why it did this but I'm not complaining. forgive my typing im wearing mechanics gloves at the moment. so after trying 3... yes 3 different optima batteries none of them working for me i figured i was going to have to call an electrician buddy i know to try and figure this one out but then i looked into my shed and saw i had a motomaster lead acid battery sitting on the shelf.... put it in the truck.... the ˟˟˟˟ing thing started no problem no power cut out nothing...... i guess the optima yellow top just isn't good enough for my little yota.... oh well it runs and drives now i am HAPPY!

On another note I got my water temp oil pressure and volt meter gauges installed... i knew my factory gauge cluster was screwy, it would read that I'm only putting out just under the middle line when i have lights on and heater etc... at idle yes it drops to 12.5 but as soon as i put a little into the throttle it goes back up to 14.5 also my temp gauge would jump up with each electrical item i hooked up to it... not only that i sea foamed my engine... things are slowly getting better woohooo! Pics below of gauges. I know I know... chrome doesn't get you home... that's all they had until my pillar pod comes in.







PS: I also managed to winterize the diesel... flushed the whole cooling system put new rad hoses on... those where a pain in the ass to figure out considering Canada auto parts stores don't recognize the 2L Diesel engine... had to make some rad hoses work... good thing i was allowed back there or it would be a hell of a time trying to explain some of the hoses to the clerk. Also pulled the rear end out of the parts runner i have.. it's going in the diesel a) because it will add 3 inches to the width of the vehicle... who doesn't like a wider stance? b) it has a welded third member in it and its chewing the tires to ˟˟˟˟ and I myself don't agree with welded thirds and neither does Tara (Owner of the diesel, also a good friend) Tomorrow starts the first of 4 on my work rotation so wont be doing to much on either of the trucks other than a little clean up on the rear axle and maybe do compression check etc on my rig...

PPS: Noticed i have either really loud valves (need to adjust them) or my rocker arm is making some funny noises.... hoping its just my valves needing adjusting... never done it before so this should be interesting to see how it works out.

bbrideau

Figured out the issue its in the above post but i also want to note. when hooked up to the diesel yota (has 2 optima yellow tops) having the 2 it will crank and start no problem but that is because I'm doubling up the amperage... i think a single yellow top just doesn't have enough oomph to it

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

That must have been a bad batch, man..... TRY IT AGAIN, JUST TO BE SURE! lol... This one was driving me nuts, all day, while at pick your part(Not all day, that's a lie... but I thought about it, honest! lol)... I kept coming back to.... IT HAS to be the battery! But they way you'd described what you tried.... Didn't seem likely. Seemed as though you had a problem. Now I'm thinking.... THAT'S A STACK OF OLD AS HELL batteries, man... IT HAPPENS! I know an O'reilly that got a WHOLE PALLET of them! They put them one after the other on a load tester... FAIL! lol.

WOW, that's just odd, man! Hopefully not just coincidence, ....hoping you didn't bump something as you pulled the last Yellow top out! lol... JK........

Those look nice, B! I know people seem to hate it..but I love chrome on these lol.

bbrideau

Funny story i actually made a post about it in another part of the forum about the battery and was actually greeted with a lot of rude comments saying i shouldn't bash the optima batteries... even tho i didn't bash them i use 2 in the diesel yota come on... they're a great freekin battery. i just suggested that if someone else has the same issue its because the yellow top isn't strong enough for the yota... they went on about CA and some other crap. but the jist of what i got was that yellow tops are not made for vehicles.. even tho i see lots of people use them in a dual battery set up... i dunno whatever.. they can fume at me all they want i was just trying to help people out in the future....

No work done on the rugs today as I went to Canadian Tires 90th anniversary blowout sale... ahmagad i wish i had more money to spend ended up only spending 250 bucks but i got a 100 piece impact tool set with impact driver impact hammer air ratchet and die grinder plus little other goodies they toss in. a 40 piece impact driver set with lifetime warranty and a 4 pack (each pack containing 7 pieces) of lifetime warranty ratchet wrenches and a new jack because my old one... well that's a different story... its had a very hard life... LOL. Also my cousin came by late last night and dropped off an early birthday present for me, 2 piece dewalt 12v lithium ion drill kit, has a impact and cordless drill along with 4 accessory packs with assorted drill bits screwdriver bits nut drivers etc. etc.... And it isn't even my birthday til tomorrow (Sept 15) pretty stoked on the tool haul in the last 24 hours.... Now i just need to buy a damn compressor.

So needless to say I've been busy drooling over new tools... who wouldn't right? hopefully tomorrow i get off work early and can twist some of these new wrenches.

PS Total sale savings was over 475 dollars.... gotta love that.

bbrideau

Alright, no pics of progress today wasn't really picture worthy... will bust out the camera when i do some actual work haha. Gutted my parts truck. stripped all the dash heater stuff etc kept all the good stuff tossed the not so good stuff.... got a lot of little goodies I'm sure i can use later down the road... or if anyone else needs dash pieces i may have them for ya... only thing left to take out of parts truck is the engine. but i need to call my buddy with a tow truck to pull it because the truck sits outside not on a nice hard floor where a hoist could be used... oh well. Did some work to the green yota today, put new u joints in the rear drive shaft they were pooched. greased front to back. wired in 2 more speakers put in a new window jizzer and kinda mcgyver fixed the heater... the whole assembly is fubar'd so im gonna have to swap that eventually but its a pain in the ass... just ripped the good one out of the parts truck so im not to keen on doing it twice in one day.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Dayum, that's a SAVINGS, ALRIGHTY! lol.... Great score!

Looking forward to pics...

And btw, PFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFBBBBBBBBBT, you Yellow Top Hater! hahahahahaha. Wow, that's soooooooooo ridiculous... But hey, just remember that people are SEEKING dissension, man.... All they do, really, is argue! haha... Of course...I don't know any of whom you're speaking of, so I don't wanna judge/sound like judging.. Just ran into that myself at times... it's annoying.

L8r t8r,

Mark

bbrideau

I know.. me... hater of yellow tops.... that's why we use duals in the diesel right? Must mean i reeaaaaaaallllllly hate em hahaha... oh well to each their own i suppose.. haters gonna hate potaters gonna tate.... forgive me for that saw a funny pic the other day of that with a potato.... i suppose i could go out and take some pictures of what i removed from the parts truck and my terribad steering box in my runner... it scares me to think about whats happened internally to that thing haha...

On another note... forgot to post before, my wipers.... they just stopped working. they worked yesterday today they don't, i havn't touched the truck since i put the gauges in other than to move it from in front of the house to the shed and back. No clue what happened to that one

bbrideau

Been a while since i have posted in here. Work on the trucks is going really slow. Winters a bitch, cold as hell and blowing snow.

Recent progress tho.
Had my y pipe replaced on my runner, forgot how quiet it really can be haha. Still have a leaking manifold [snapped a stud on #3 exhaust] oh well 1000% better than it was. Monday weather permitting i will do pass wheel bearing. Has more play than a surrey girl (a few of you will get that pun) if its to cold or snowing then i will have to break down and bring it to a shop. Dirty words i know, but it needs doing. When in 4 wheel drive it tugs me all over the place and hums and clanks away. In 2 wheel drive it doesnt tug as bad. Maybe i should get a video of the amount of play it has.

New problems have reared their ugly head....
I have next to no power until i hit about 26-2800rpm
Yes i know the 22re has no power. It has less power than it nornally has. Gonna do a compression test see where it goes. If it doesnt check out nicely i will do a leak down test. Im thinking that driving for 4 months with no knock sensor forcing it to run rich caused excess carbon build up and either my valves are not seating or my poor motor is trying to over come higher compression due to smaller combustion chamber from carbon build up, add on the 3 months of having a really bad exhaust leak making her run rich again, my assumptions may be correct.

If none of that seems to be the problem then it definitely resides with the next one. Very loud clacking in my valve cover area. Particularily the rear
Of the vc. Either my valve lash is way out or somethings not right on there, maybe im only running on 3 cylinders who knows til the compression\leak down results.

bbrideau

So my engine quit. no more 22re.

Option 1
Rebuild engine top to bottom.

or

Option 2
Supercharged 5vz-fe from a 2000 limited edition 4runner with 140 thousand kilometers for $850, maf, intake ecu, evap system blah blah blah everything from the vehicle i need.
plus all the custom parts needed.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Rebuilding the engine top to bottom will give you another 150K if done right.... For around 700$ with machining if you check around and just have them hot tank and bore your block/clean up the crank/then order engnbldr kit... (maybe add a cam and have the head gone through, 1000$ ........

850$ for that engine and EVERYTHING? That seems almost scary good of a deal... Hmmmmmm.... I would be VERY thorough in inspecting it. Make sure none of the wiring harness is snipped.... Look through Anthony1 and Vitale's threads and see all that's involved... and then decide if it's worth it to ya...

From what I understand, swapping from a 3.0 to a 3.4 is much easier... or at least SOMEWHAT easier, lol. Probably cheaper as well. Also, .... with all that torque, you might have to think about a trans/does it need an adapter, etc.(I don't know that much about this swap, but I'm sure ppl will speak up....>>)>>> But, what I do know is that it's NEVER cheap and NEARLY never ends without something unexpected being needed, etc.

You also need to tear the entire dash apart and so forth(not a HUGE deal... just takes a bit of time to remove everything and wire in all the new goodies, lol. Not sure about the Gauges, also......

Trans/Trans Adapter and mount?

Motor mounts?

Radiator and Efan?

Exhaust system?

Brake upgrades(for sure!)

Some bigger shocks for the front end and maybe other beefy stuff for suspension?

Driveline? (Not sure if it's an issue with adding all that torque or not... U-joints/driveshafts, etc.)

Gears?

Honestly, I'm not sure what this ends up costing us 22RE guys.... or even the 3.0 guys, lol. Just throwing stuff out there until someone comes and gives you the WHOLE picture on what's involved, etc. It's 240Hp or so, right? Compared to 100Hp or so? Plus the extra weight, ....that's why I guessed on the brakes, driveline, trans, etc. I would imagine, especially if you have to rebuild this, on top of the 850$, then extra costs... it's gonna cost you around 2850$ including the motor to do it. BUT, maybe not, since you have all that stuff and "other performance stuff's", whatever that means I'm not sure, but I'm sure you'll elaborate.

For around 1000$, no messing with the wiring, slapping the Supra AFM and a CAM and maybe exhaust in it... I think it'd be MUCH less work and LOTS cheaper.... But if money is no object and you CAN'T LIVE without this swap/mod, etc.... I get that too. Many people don't NEED triple sticks or 4.88's or 35's or SAS's or ...whatever, but they want them and are usually happy with the outcome. Much of it is LOTS of work... Including this project.

One other thing is this..... NO CLUE on how strict BC/Canada is on Emissions and "Inspection"... But, if it's anything like CALIFORNIA, .... and other east coast states I've read..... It can be a TOTAL PITA dealing with the 'Inspections' people... LOTS of things have to be there after the transplant and some guys are having trouble(as with Shaggy, the 1UZ swapper), with inspections due to his Manual Trans throwing codes(since most 1UZ's came with auto's and it's now throwing codes he can't get rid of or bypass(IIRC... don't quote me, but it's on his thread).... I THINK he's in Colorado..... So I would AT LEAST investigate what you have to look at in regards to inspections and emissions, etc., ya know?

bbrideau

well i have looked into the swap for a long time. found everywhere i need to get my parts for the swap. there are mounts that you can get that allow the 5vz to bolt directly to the 22re mounts, or you cut them and weld on 3.0 mounts to the frame. not to hard.

Also the wife's uncle is a machinist and has access to a cnc machine so i can just buy the cad drawing of the bell housing i need to adapt to my w56 (which is apparently stronger than the r150) and talked to a few places in case i cant figure out wiring for it i can get a plug and play harness made for 550 bucks... don't want to spend all that on a harness when i can take my time and figure it out.

As far as the engine price, i can get a lot of the 5vz motors cheaper than what most can around where i live because i help the owner of the wreckers out a lot. i pulled the motor from the runner i got to see it run i asked if i could pull it and set it aside in case i wanted it later, benefits of small town living sometimes haha. i still love the 22re so reliable and easy to work on would like to rebuild the 22re anyways never know when i could need it again.

The only part of the province i live in that requires emissions and inspections is in the lower mainland. there is 0 smog and 0 inspections stuff out where i live so if i wanted to i could run pig rich with no emissions stuff and pump thick black clouds of ˟˟˟˟ into the sky if i really wanted to, but i respect my environment so i do what i can to not pollute the world we live in haha.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Uh oh.......... sounds like another 5.OHMY is on the way! lol....

Well, best wishes on that.... Wish I could offer more advice, but I WILL be learning as YOU do it! lol... As you said on the phone... "Might just rebuild the 22re pretty cheap for now and save up for the full on swap and be 100% READY, no qualms, hindering elements that could creep up(at least as much as possible) and EXTRA everything that 'MIGHT brake during the process." .... I added stuff to that quotation, lol... but you get the point.

KILL IT, HOMIE... I can't wait! (No matter what you do, I love seeing these things come back to life and toot down the road another 100K Plus Happy Sewing Machine Miles! haha.

bbrideau

Well here is the compression test results on my poor little 22re... ready for this...
(starting from front of engine to the firewall)
1- 45PSI
2- 50PSI
3- 160PSI
4- 155PSI

bbrideau

Valve cover is off. Was some milky oil in the top of the valve cover but not in the pools of oil around the rocker arms and valve springs... odd? maybe just residual moisture in the air doing that....
upper intake plenum is off.
egr appears half plugged looking down the line.
The low intake plenum is pretty gross, upper looks to be nasty too. wont know til i take it apart and clean inside. throttle body looks like it has mud built up in it haha. guess i will need to get pictures up eventually.

bbrideau

Air flow meter tests.

E2 - Vs should be 20-400 ohms -> 397 ohms
E2 - Vc should be 100-300 ohms -> 179 ohms
E2 - Vb should be 200-400 ohms -> 278 ohms
E2 - THA @ 20 degrees C should be 2-3 kila ohms. -> 2.25 kila ohm reading

appears to be good. but i have the supra afm coming in from Chefyota! excited for that.

bbrideau

okay so upper and lower intakes are removed. pain in the ass with the stupid pair system and egr still all in my truck, ˟˟˟˟s getting removed before engine goes back in. exhaust manifold is disconnected and hanging... looks like PO who did rebuild on engine went stupid cheap on the rebuild. all the gaskets were reused and just rtv'd over... shaking my head on this one.

Minor issue. I THINK i have it at TDC but the timing mark on the cam is there but there is no light colored link on my timing chain.... think its a cheapo replacement chain, on my crankcase pulley it seems there's a notch on the pulley itself that's lined up with the 0 mark and on the cam gear the dot is at like 11:55 just shy of 12:00 o clock. hoping that's right. guess it wont matter really since I'm pulling the whole motor and assembling it before it goes back into the truck.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

It doesn't matter if you're rebuilding the motor..... And the bright links are likely there, just carbonized. AND, ... the links don't line up every time you come around to TDC-Compression.... That's just for initial line up and then, you CAN run it around a few times until you get that 'link line up'.... But again, you're getting a new timing kit, etc., so you can just toss that stuff.

You're doing the Steel Guide kit, right?

You said you're pulling the motor out... Have the head checked and block decked/resurfaced if necessary... (They'll hot tank the block [and even head] before and after the bore)...

Doesn't hurt to take the Rods/caps, plenum and the rest to have it tanked as well/ Have the plenum and exhaust sand blasted if they'll do it cheap.

bbrideau

yes definitely going with steel guides. i haven't taken timing cover off yet but it looks like the nylon ones are wearing down. could just be the lighting wont know until i tear it apart.

gonna check the block for being even and what not make sure everything looks good if it needs machining then i will find a shop and get it hot tanked while its in there. if not i have access at work of industrial grade degreaser and a high pressure high heat steam gun that will get rid of everything on or in that block ha ha

Thinking I'm going to paint my intake plenum (just the top part where it says efi) that and the timing cover alt bracket etc. thinking a nice dark blue. who knows where i will go with it going to be a journey tho that's for sure.

In the mean time i am driving the blazer i guess, at least I'm not stranded!

guess i better get some pictures of what I've completed and maybe a few of the blazer. if all else fails and i am not able to rebuild the 22re and i don't go with the 5vz swap i could always take the 4.3 vortec out of the blazer ha ha!

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Hmmmmmmm, .....Another ChevYota, eh? lol... Maybe go LS1 instead? From a late 90's/early 00's Camaro? hahaha. nahhhhhhh, ..... that would likely lead to BAD INJURIES, or worse haha.

So, access at work, eh? Nice

Just remember, far as paint... WAY harder to see oil on black or dark blue.... I KNOW, you would think that's the idea, right? haha... NOPE, I chose alumicote because, well, I want to see ANY drip, let alone gushing leak, QUICKLY! .... NOT saying dark blue is a bad idea... I mean, it sounds cool. BUT, you wanna see WHERE it's leaking from the timing cover, GOD FORBID IT LEAKS! lol....

Paint the entire plenum if you want.... It's a good thing, cuz after paint, you can get grease all over it, and it wipes RIGHT OFF! Mine comes clean MUCH easier with the valve cover, plenum and block painted alumicote engine paint... I LIKE IT, lol.

Remember2, .... DO NOT steam that thing unless you're cleaning it before the boring.... then right after the boring... THEN IMMEDIATELY get it oiled in the holes,..... just a LIGHT coating on a rag, enough to prevent ANY rust from starting. You want that hole PRISTINE, like for surgery, before you slap those pitsons in there... And DON'T SOAK the things... just a light finger of oil on the rings, to coat a lil as they are installed... Too much oil in the hole and, well, as you go to break it in.... the rings can have lots of trouble seating if you do that.... It's called "glazing"... and it's NOT good, especially after all that work.

You can check it out all you want... But you really need a machinist to check the block and head... Then have them bore it out.... Unless you're going with stock pistons and a hone job/new rings, that's it????? If you bore it out, .050 over, ... make sure it gets new seals and at least a grind on the valves(new exhaust valves, at least[which you might not NEED if it's been rebuilt... may just need them ground and lapped]..... Have them hand lap the rocker pads.... slap a new cam in there..... >>> You'll not only get it to last a while... BUT, you'll also get a lil 'MORE' out of it, if you KWIMean? Don't have to go crazy, and yet you can still get a decent full rebuild done at a reasonable price, ya know?

DEFINITELY get the crank sent out, B, ...Again, don't risk all this work and not do it right, THE FIRST TIME! (I know, I say that alot... but for good reason! lol)

bbrideau

Well the blue wouldn't be to dark i was thinking the blue like Tundra blueish or the ford f150 blue. (probably the only thing i like about ford is the blue they have for the pick up, and the ecoboost engine) so might not be to bad of a color but i get what you mean about the oil leaks would be great to see where it comes from, thought did cross my mind but maybe a lighter blue would be good or possibly a different color all together. so many choices, work has a fck load of different color high temp engine paint so i will see what they have and go from there.

good call on the oiling of everything after the bore out and everything little things i would have forgotten about that would be very important ha ha.

PS: I like ALL my holes to be clean as a whistle if you catch my drift