I sent him a PM.

Is he active in here still?

 

Hey smokejumper,

First time throwing a post in here, but i've been following along. Truck looks awesome.

I love the idea of keeping it all toyota. The 2uz would be awesome.

as far as axles, are you thinking of possibly an fj80 front and rear? if so, are you aware that the rearend is offset? (on stock fj80 housings)

the trail-gear housings have mixed reviews, apparently lots of the welds leak, etc. Possibly consider other housings.

stock stuff can hold up depending on LOTS of factors. if you throw a 2uz, and stock fj axles in there, have a single tcase, and 35" tires, and keep the skinny pedal off the floor, then they'd likely do pretty well.

Throw dual cases, take it to some rocks with some 37" plus, and you might run into problems.

I've been through every idea of how to build my truck, even drew up my own long travel ifs system in solidworks, and i still came back to wanting to sas it. I'm still building my long travel (just to say i did). What i'm trying to say is, if you're end goal is an sas, don't bother with the stepping stones, save your cash on the long travel kit for now.

oh, and for axles, i'm doing a 3 link front, 4 link rear on my '94. and I'm ordering my axle housings on monday, and I think they're as stout as you can get in toyota stuff...

Front: Diamond w/ 9.5" LC Center Section, mini truck outers
Rear: Diamond w/ 9.5" LC Center, full float outers with mounts for taco calipers.

Sorry for my ramblings, just some things to think about. If you want to get in the Ultimate Adventure (which would be so AWESOME), you're gonna have to build a pretty killer truck.

 

Niall, you're sorry becauuuuuuse? Freakin awesome input!

 

Thanks

 

Glad you posted.

If you are all over Canada what do you do?

I think it's good advice. I'll tinker and cut the front end a bit to get the most out of what I have. I work my ass off in a dirty hole in the ground. I shouldn't waste money needlessly.

Please create a build thread. I'd love to follow it.


I know that the axle is offset. I was thinking of a fuel cell anyway. Australia and Canada are big and fuel can be far between. This 65L tank does not cut it. I get at very most 400km to a tank. To be on the safe side I don't like to see more than a 350km gap between fuel stops. I carried a 50L spare fuel tank with me on this past autumns road trip and I did have to use it.

I think the 80 series had a 2UZ in it correct?


I love the idea of all that power. I could tow more giving me cool options. Climb mountains without flooring it and still only going 70kmh.

I can relocate it ahead of time as a project to keep me going that will still work in the future build.

 

Not sure, ..... .haven't had a hit on that for a while. I think he's just busy, as he's building swaps for high end racers.... Did you check out that shizzle? MANNNNNNNNNNNNG! LOL. SO envious of that sickness! lol.....

He will likely be whom I hit up for help with my 3RZ swap, may even fly him out here, as he said he could do it in a weekend! lol. I WOULD LOVE more power and better mileage, ya feel me?????? HEHE. .... BUT, I'm still, to this day, undecided on the choices of 3RZ, 1UZ or 5VZ.... The last of which would be the most work, I guess, considering I have a 22RE? Maybe the 1UZ would be close or even worse, I'm not sure...BUT, the 3RZ is the easiest, according to JustDSM

 

Work for an oil exploration company. I started a build thread, haven't updated it because I haven't really been around home to put up the pictrures of whats done, or get alot more done.

As it sits, it's a new frame I built, with a single turbo 2JZ gte and a340e on the frame. I'm hoping to finish it by mid summer.

Stock axles will more than likely brake on the ultimate adenture. Just sayin. haha.

I'm raising the floor in the cargo area of my runner about 8" to fit a fuel cell back there, i want it in front of the rear axle. It's only a 20 gal, and you're right on fuel, but i've always got gas cans when i'm on a long trip.

 

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toyota_UZ_engine


I just looked up the 1UZ as well. That could be a great choice. It's a lot more power than what I have now and newer. Another plus is that it could be easier on the driveline being not too much power.


Got a link for your build niall?



I do a 2 on two off rotation. What kind of rotation are you on?



Please post your thread link.

 

Anyone know of a good Toyota engine dealer? It's hard to wade through all the garbage I'm getting on the net.

 

There is 1 major jdm dealer, can't remember the name. ... I have a favorite yard that usually has most things, www.japanesetruckdismantlers.com , and there are a couple huge ones L.A. And NorCal / OREGON as well.

 

I can't remember their name, but there was some guys in calgary that did alot of JDM importing. I bought my 2jz off ebay, I tore it down to build it, but I wouldn't have needed to if I was keeping it close to stock boost/power. it was perfect.

 

Holy cow, i missed out 2 pages in the past 3 days. man you've been busy. lol
Cant wait to see your future updates.

 

Yeah, I just picked up some new headlights and got a replacement for my broken mount. I bumped a tree and it broke the headlight mounts before I got a tube bumper.

I got some Trueview lights.

http://www.napapartsfromfederalmogul...ps/truview.php


Have to be better than the blue ones I have now.

I'm thinking of getting the wiring kit from 4Crawler to get more power to them as well.

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...OnLineOrdering


Little things are in order for the next while.

Fixings rust holes will be when it warms up.

Can't wait to learn welding. Not sure if it's strong enough for frame work though. It's a 220V Lincoln Electric Mig Pak 15.

 

No ideas on if the welder I have is enough to do my own SAS?

 

Ha, sorry. I didn't even notice that question there at the bottom last time I looked. Yes, your 220v will do the trick for an SAS, for sure. There's more than a few people who have done them with 110v mig welders, just may be slower. I personally wouldn't do it with either, but that's cause I still suck at welding, but preference would be the 220v.

 

as long as it's not a 110, you'll be okay, just start with a smaller, pass, ensuring very good penetration, then lay it on a little thicker with a bigger pass over top.

 

If its not too much of a bother do you mind taking a lot of pix for when you do go through with the SAS? If you do it before I do lol. Itd be nice to watch somebody's progress.

 

I will take lots of photo's.

I want to keep it low so might have to modify the frame quite a bit.

Maybe something like this?



https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f152...d-axle-178139/



My build will be frame off so might do something a bit different but the same idea.

 

My front right brake is dragging. It doesn't do it all the time but it is a problem. Ideas?

Also I've not had a parking brake for ages. The cable snapped at the handle. I'm thinking the 3" body lift done by the PO made it too tight. Any ideas on getting me a parking brake again?


I'm also hearing something vibrate when I apply throttle. It goes away when I let off. No clue where it's coming from. It doesn't sound metallic though.


Lastly, how do I adjust my rear brakes? I've put in an LSPV bracket and ABS is gone. The rears grab a bit too hard. It's a sheet of ice here so it makes the ass end kick out. I drive to conditions so it's never a problem but I should get it set right.

 

On the rf brake, have you done the brakes on your rig? Might be able to rebuild it with new seals and stuff like Chef(pretty sure he did anyhow). Basically, the idea is to get it fixed now, before it seizes up, if that's why it's starting to stick. Otherwise the usual culprit to a dragging brake is a collapsing line.

Vibration...where does it feel/sound like it's coming from? Not usually good at diagnosing vibrations, most of my rigs have so many vibrations from so many things I just don't worry about it until something is noticed to be loose.

As for the brake adjustment, is there no adjustment to the rod at the axle end? I don't think I have any pics of it, but mine has a threaded section and 2 nuts that hold the rod end. You can slightly fine tune that, or re drill the bracket a little lower.